how do i drill a straight hole?

BarenbruggeCues said:
Like I said, drills are for roughing in a hole and then bore it to your perfect size.
Things get done better and faster when you cuss and throw things......at least in my mind. :cool:
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Boring bars are for sissies :nanner:

I got some work benches with holes in the back of them....and splinters lying around the shop floor. Thrown a few things across the shop at more than leisure velocity. Said a bad word once.
 
qbilder said:
Boring bars are for sissies :nanner:

I got some work benches with holes in the back of them....and splinters lying around the shop floor. Thrown a few things across the shop at more than leisure velocity. Said a bad word once.
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:grin:.........;)
 
wow this thread got hot quick. I just want to share my limited experience with this issue. I found that even with solid carbide boring bars you still get some tool push off due to the small diameter of the boring bar. This is on taig based machines. I bought a solid carbide reamer and carbide 4 flute centerdrilling endmills. Tryed about 10 different ways to drill the hole and ream it. With the taig tailstock like snipershot has it is hit or miss. Not repeatable in my trials. Boring was the lesser of two evils until brent hartman showed me another way. Bore with the router........I use 1/4 carbide endmill in the router and yes its touchy and you can mess up fast. But No other way has worked so well for me. Everyone here has come up with there own way that works for them but with the taig equipment you are limited. But I will say the solid carbide endmills are dead on for 5/16 threaded pins with some massaging. But the .308 barreled pins I like boring. Maybe you only bore so far and then follow with drills but a precise hole is needed for the drill or reamer to follow
 
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ComptonCustomCues said:
wow this thread got hot quick. I just want to share my limited experience with this issue. I found that even with solid carbide boring bars you still get some tool push off due to the small diameter of the boring bar. This is on taig based machines. I bought a solid carbide reamer and carbide 4 flute centerdrilling endmills. Tryed about 10 different ways to drill the hole and ream it. With the taig tailstock like snipershot has it is hit or miss. Not repeatable in my trials. Boring was the lesser of two evils until brent hartman showed me another way. Bore with the router........

and it only cost me $90.00 to explain it to you
:bash::bash::bash:
:rotflmao1::rotflmao1::rotflmao1::rotflmao1:
luv ya man !!!!



I use 1/4 carbide endmill in the router and yes its touchy and you can mess up fast. But No other way has worked so well for me. Everyone here has come up with there own way that works for them but with the taig equipment you are limited. But I will say the solid carbide endmills are dead on for 5/16 threaded pins with some massaging. But the .308 barreled pins I like boring. Maybe you only bore so far and then follow with drills but a precise hole is needed for the drill or reamer to follow
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ComptonCustomCues said:
wow this thread got hot quick. I just want to share my limited experience with this issue. I found that even with solid carbide boring bars you still get some tool push off due to the small diameter of the boring bar.
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And thats the advantage of a boring bar -- Wood has hard places which deflect all tools (mostly drill bits). If that happens with a boring bar it only makes part of the hole too small so you can come right back with the
same setting of your last cut and it usually will clean up the hole perfectly. That is why you test the pin's dry fit to make sure the hole is not too small before you remove the cue from the head stock. It sure helps to use sharp tools and small cuts.

A reamer usually follows the path of the original hole so if the original hole was off then it will still be off after it has been reamed.

Good cuemaking,
 
Funny brent......remember lots of beer......LOTS... I belive you explained much more in that 90 dollars than just the pin...now if you could just come up with a magical way to remove that titanium pin without having to buy another one :sad: ..and arnot I agree boring is the only way I want to install my pins.....router or boring bar....The router is a really neat way.
 
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ComptonCustomCues said:
Funny brent......remember lots of beer......LOTS.....
:thumbup::thumbup:
:thumbup::thumbup:
:thumbup::thumbup:


and arnot I agree boring is the only way I want to install my pins.....router or boring bar....The router is a really neat way.
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What no magical fix for the pin??? :sad: OK well maybe I'll have to have a beer as I'm locking vise grips down on that 20 dollar pin...:sad:lol.
 
I use router bits the same way I use drill bits. Too bad they don't make a .3115 & .3740" straight router bit LOL
 
router bit boring

I never tried boring with router bits but you guys prompted me to give it a shot on some JP's I'm making right now. I have to admit it worked slicker than snot.

I mounted a 1/4" dia 2-flute end mill & used it to face off the JP, then plunge it roughly in the center of the male JP's to a depth of .550. Checked size & adjusted to give me .308 dia for my pins & reset my "0". Then, swap out the thread mill (which also has a 1/4" dia head!!!) and that same "0" setting is the exact touch up point for the thread mill. That makes it a simple matter to plunge to the thread depth & that JP is finished. Do the same thing for the rest of the JP's, using the same "0" setting for everything.

And a pearl for you guys: my last move is to install a 60° engraving bit to chamfer the threads so cleanly, you'll think it was polished. And guess what...the engraving bit is also 1/4" dia.

Sweet, simple, accurate & repeatable.

Thanks, guys!
 
dzcues said:
I never tried boring with router bits but you guys prompted me to give it a shot on some JP's I'm making right now. I have to admit it worked slicker than snot.

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
pretty cool aint it

I mounted a 1/4" dia 2-flute end mill & used it to face off the JP, then plunge it roughly in the center of the male JP's to a depth of .550. Checked size & adjusted to give me .308 dia for my pins & reset my "0". Then, swap out the thread mill (which also has a 1/4" dia head!!!) and that same "0" setting is the exact touch up point for the thread mill. That makes it a simple matter to plunge to the thread depth & that JP is finished. Do the same thing for the rest of the JP's, using the same "0" setting for everything.

And a pearl for you guys: my last move is to install a 60° engraving bit to chamfer the threads so cleanly, you'll think it was polished. And guess what...the engraving bit is also 1/4" dia.

for that, i just rotate compound 30 with the same 1/4" x2" bit in place i used to bore

Sweet, simple, accurate & repeatable.

Thanks, guys!
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qbilder said:
I use router bits the same way I use drill bits. Too bad they don't make a .3115 & .3740" straight router bit LOL
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A 9.5mm center-cutting end mill might work as a .3740" straight router bit, and a 7.9mm end mill would be a substitute for a .3115" (what's 5 tenths between friends).

Great thread guys, I am enjoying and learning :thumbup:

Dave
 
DaveK said:
A 9.5mm center-cutting end mill might work as a .3740" straight router bit, and a 7.9mm end mill would be a substitute for a .3115" (what's 5 tenths between friends).

Great thread guys, I am enjoying and learning :thumbup:

Dave
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I'm enjoying it too man, lol.

Joe
 
when i started boring with router a couple years ago,
i was so excited, thinking that i came up some cool procedure all on my own,
that i wanted to tell a couple of "teachers/my go to guys" about it
they laughed, said they been doing it that way for years
 
BHQ said:
when i started boring with router a couple years ago,
i was so excited, thinking that i came up some cool procedure all on my own,
that i wanted to tell a couple of "teachers/my go to guys" about it
they laughed, said they been doing it that way for years
Click to expand...

You rotate the compound or the chuck ?:scratchhead:
 
I still punch a starter "rough" hole with a drill before I drop the router on the tool post. Just seems to cut easier than trying to center bore it with a center cutting bit in the router.
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
I still punch a starter "rough" hole with a drill before I drop the router on the tool post. Just seems to cut easier than trying to center bore it with a center cutting bit in the router.
Click to expand...
yep, ditto that
1/4"
also helps me get my router bit lined up ;)
 
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