No. Probably not. If you drill too small then the tap will start tearing wood instead of cutting, and that will ruin the hole. Best off if the OD of the tap matches the OD of the pin. At least with v-groove threads.
how do i drill a straight hole?
- Thread starter snipershot
- Start date
No. Probably not. If you drill too small then the tap will start tearing wood instead of cutting, and that will ruin the hole. Best off if the OD of the tap matches the OD of the pin. At least with v-groove threads.
A boring bar is your first easy fix.
i got fed up with boring bars a couple years ago
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=168391
the videos in that link dont work anymore, but you'll get the idea from the pics
not shown in that thread, but for pin install ,
i use a 1/4 shank / 1/4" cut x 2.00" long bit
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=168391
the videos in that link dont work anymore, but you'll get the idea from the pics
not shown in that thread, but for pin install ,
i use a 1/4 shank / 1/4" cut x 2.00" long bit
I've just switched over to brents method useing 1/4 4 flute center drilling endmills.....its the stone cold nutts. Listen to brent he wont steer you wrong.
Ok, so I went home after work and found a piece of 1/8 tool steel about 2 inches long and made a small boring bar out of it. It appears the tailstock is a big part of my problem. I did like everyone told me and bored a hole, and I didn't bottom out the pin. I also chucked the pin in the tailstock and used it to put the pin in my practice cue. It was WAY straighter than before. Its still a few thou out, but nowhere near the .035 it was before. I know I can get it closer, so I just gotta keep practicing and hopefully ill get me a better lathe here soon.
Joe
Joe
with a bracket made for my router and toolpost
yes, the lathe is mounted to the router :thumbup:
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for the guys that asked about the long router bits
http://stores.ebay.com/Super-Carbid...b=5188255&_sid=16596821&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
http://stores.ebay.com/Super-Carbid...b=5188255&_sid=16596821&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
I agree, anybody that likes beer as much as Brent does can't be all that bad.
You can buy pins with a center barrel. The barrel makes the process even easier. Ill pm u with the supplier. U need to mill a glue relief in the threads that get epoxy to help from splitting the cue due to hydraulic pressure(I use my mill and this eliminates potential problems)
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Sent from my BlackBerry 9800 using Tapatalk
yes i do, but not while working
beers & routers, lathes,tablesaws, bandsaws, etc. do not mix well
brenster> hates hospitals,
emergency rooms
& most of all,
filling out insurance forms:thumbup:
there's several other ways to mount your router,
but a friend of mine made these brackets for me
a bit of overkill,
but i wouldnt expect anything less from a guy that builds top secret military defense weaponry:thumbup:
really, he does, thats not bs
i cant go in his shop
i dont have gov clearance
one for horizontal
and one for vertical mount
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I wouldn't think you do Brent. Beer is for after.
After one beer, I won't touch anything in the shop.
I don't smoke in the shop either.
Whats next, laser guided routers? Pretty heavy duty is right.
After one beer, I won't touch anything in the shop.
I don't smoke in the shop either.
Whats next, laser guided routers? Pretty heavy duty is right.
I was taught this method for getting the tailstock dead nuts on a LeBlond we had at school that would NOT stay put. This method may not work for you because of the limitations of your machine.
Get a good quality,machinable (not hardened) rod,face it and center-drill both ends on a different machine if possible.
Put a cold-rolled rod of reasonable size in spindle chuck,set your compound (which I'm guessing you don't have) to 30 degrees and make yourself a perfect dead center using the compound,feeding it by hand and slowly to ensure as smooth a finish as you can get.
Put your best live center in the tailstock quill,and put the rod you center-drilled between centers.
Take a light cut the full length of your rod. Measure the diameter at the tailstock end first,then the middle,then the spindle end. What you are looking for is unintentional taper.
Depending on which end is biggest,adjust the tailstock until you get the same diameter on both ends. Problem solved. Tommy D.
Get a good quality,machinable (not hardened) rod,face it and center-drill both ends on a different machine if possible.
Put a cold-rolled rod of reasonable size in spindle chuck,set your compound (which I'm guessing you don't have) to 30 degrees and make yourself a perfect dead center using the compound,feeding it by hand and slowly to ensure as smooth a finish as you can get.
Put your best live center in the tailstock quill,and put the rod you center-drilled between centers.
Take a light cut the full length of your rod. Measure the diameter at the tailstock end first,then the middle,then the spindle end. What you are looking for is unintentional taper.
Depending on which end is biggest,adjust the tailstock until you get the same diameter on both ends. Problem solved. Tommy D.
Good method.
I do this check on my Hightower lathe when ever I turn a long piece of wood round using a router. Just measure the diameter on each end of the wood. If the tailstock end is small, the tail stock is out too far .... if the tail stock end is too big.... the tail stock is in too far. If both ends are equal.... the tail stock is centered.
I set it up initially using a ground pin then final check it this way.
Kim
Well, I made another sneaky, and it looked and hit great, but yet again, the pin was crooked. It bugged the hell outta me all day. I kept going over what I did and couldnt figure out what I did wrong. I thought it was the face.....nope. I kept checking the runout on the pin, face, and collar and it was clear it was the pin. The cue was too good to trash, so I decided to try to fix it. I came home after working 12 hours and torched the pin and got it free. I flipped my jaws and bored them and center drilled the rest of my pins, and they turned out great! I flipped my jaws back and bored the inside jaws and got em down to just under .001 runout, woo hoo! I know my tailstock is way off, so i used the bar that came with my hightower 5/8 11 die and started an hour-long process of shimming and stoning until I got it as close as i could, which aint perfect, but its a helluva lot better, lol! Next I drilled my hole a little deeper and ran the tap in and out a couple times to clean out the old epoxy and add threads to the back of the hole. I used a very small amount of epoxy on the pin, and used my newly made pin gripper to install the pin (thanks for the idea Trent!). Once I got the pin in, I put my 60 degree live center in my tailstock and ran the center in the hole I drilled on the end of the pin, and turned my lathe on its lowest speed for a few minutes, and then let the 5 minute epoxy set for about 15-20 more minutes. I was worried, but when I took the center off, and checked my pin, it was dead nuts! I took it out to the cave, and it rolls straight, and hits great! Im pretty happy about it, but Im curious if you guys think this is a good repeatable process of installing a pin? And before anyone says it, I meant the second pin, lol. Ill post some pics and you can tell me what you think soon.
Joe
Joe
Glad to see you figured out your equipment and how to true it up. 5 min epoxy is probably not the best to use for the pin. It is too thick and might not be as secure as a slower setting epoxy. Also if you are going to drill the hole for the pin, get a 5/16 solid carbide 3 flute drill. (for a 3/8 pin) They don't flex and drill a truer hole. Also Step drill the hole. Start with ctr drill and then 1/4 drill then 5/16.
just some thoughts,
Kim
I bought one of those kick-ass 1/4 inch boring bars from conetip and used it to originally bore the hole, but I think I didn't go deep enough, that's why I drilled it out the last 1/2 inch or so, because I would have probably ruined all my threads on my ole if I tried to bore it, lol. What's the best glue or epoxy to use for a pin?
Joe
theres really no need for a carbide drill bit, if hes already boring the hole. he can use a smaller drill bit to get started then bore it to size .
thick 5 min epoxy works fine for a pin, but i only use a touch of it just enought to lock the threads the only issue i have with it is that if you have to remove it, it takes alot of heat which can damage the finish or a whole slu of other problems on the forearm.
glad the pin setter worked for you man.
when you come down saturday we can go over somestuff.
your new southbend should really help out.