How do they compare? Sniper, Everest, Morri

cbi1000

cbi1000

It is what it is...
Silver Member
I’ve been playing with the Everest tips for about a year now and I’m thinking about a change. I really like how the Everest plays in the beginning (first two or three months), then not so much after that. They feel dead to me.

How does the Sniper and Morri med compare to the Everest in hit? Are they the same hardness? Play the same?

I’ve also heard Morri’s can be troublesome to install? Is that correct?

Thanks,
 
you can definately search around and find all about this topic
I will say one thing if you are saying that the everest gets harder as you play with it.......then you will find.....or atleast I have......that the sniper does the same thing gets harder and harder
 
cbi1000 said:
I’ve been playing with the Everest tips for about a year now and I’m thinking about a change. I really like how the Everest plays in the beginning (first two or three months), then not so much after that. They feel dead to me.

How does the Sniper and Morri med compare to the Everest in hit? Are they the same hardness? Play the same?

I’ve also heard Morri’s can be troublesome to install? Is that correct?

Thanks,
Click to expand...

I have my Snipers installed by Varney Cues. In my opinion, when installed properly, Snipers are hard to beat. Extremely low maintenance and I think superb playability. I have had my Snipers for about 6 months I guess and to me, they play pretty much the same now as the day installed, maybe just a little harder.

I do however think that it's all subjective. One person may like Snipers, another may hate them. One may like Moori's, another may hate them... etc etc etc.

Just my opinion and I am sure there will be others to contradict what I have stated. Also, as stated before, do a search, there is a lot of info and opinions out there.

Craig
 
I just installed a Moori Medium after playing with a Triangle. I'm fine with the playability of the tip but for me it seems to need constant scuffing. Holds shape well but gets smooth real fast and doesn't seem to hold as much chalk as the triangle....so I find myself scuffing up every 2 or so hours.
 
Hardness

I would like to know if the sniper is harder then the Everest? Anyone?
 
i've tried snipers and moorie tips only. i don't like the snipers i always feel like i might miscue. i like the moori a lot more it does need to be scuffed a little more but i feel like it grips the ball really well. i have an older moori on a cue i've had for years and a newer one on a newer cue i just got and i think there is a difference though. i think the older mooris were better. i got one that's going 3 1/2 years strong
 
i have a sniper and it played great.. i dont know if i like it now.. ive had it a while maybe i need a new one but im thinking of trying a moorie this time
 
I don't care what the charts say...the Sniper plays softer than an Everest or even a Moori soft. In fact the Sniper is probably the softest hitting layered tip you can buy. To me it hits even softer than a Tiger soft. The great thing is that it doesn't miscue or mushroom. The key is CORRECT installation. Most who don't like the Sniper...are playing with butchered ones.;)
 
Varney Cues said:
I don't care what the charts say...the Sniper plays softer than an Everest or even a Moori soft. In fact the Sniper is probably the softest hitting layered tip you can buy. To me it hits even softer than a Tiger soft. The great thing is that it doesn't miscue or mushroom. The key is CORRECT installation. Most who don't like the Sniper...are playing with butchered ones.;)
Click to expand...

i agree, its how well the tip is put on(installed) that make ALOT of difference over time. Good tip work is hard to find. Anyone can glue one on and cut it to size etc, but a good tip guy will go through all his tips and pick the better ones for good players, and putting them in a vice with the correct pressure overnight-depending on the tip matters too, sometimes after comming out of the vice you can see flaws in the tip before it was squished. Its hard to generalze about brands of tips I have seen good and bad in all tips, sometimes you cant see the bad, I've had new tips blow the side out after a few hours of play and others that last forever.
 
Varney Cues said:
The key is CORRECT installation. Most who don't like the Sniper...are playing with butchered ones.;)
Click to expand...

Why doesn't someone use this site and put up step-by-step instructions on just how to CORRECTLY install the Sniper tip. I implored Crown City Corey on another thread to do just that and he didn't reply (it's possible he never saw my post). I realize that there is an 1-800 phone number you can call to get instructions (they walk you through it, so I've heard), but wouldn't it be better if the instructions were posted so they could be printed out and read while doing the installation? Why don't you help us out here Kevin? Please?

Maniac
 
Do a search. I believe Varney (or maybe somebody else) has covered the step by step instructions.

Maniac said:
Why doesn't someone use this site and put up step-by-step instructions on just how to CORRECTLY install the Sniper tip. I implored Crown City Corey on another thread to do just that and he didn't reply (it's possible he never saw my post). I realize that there is an 1-800 phone number you can call to get instructions (they walk you through it, so I've heard), but wouldn't it be better if the instructions were posted so they could be printed out and read while doing the installation? Why don't you help us out here Kevin? Please?

Maniac
Click to expand...
 
Maniac said:
Why don't you help us out here Kevin? Please?

Maniac
Click to expand...
I went over it once in the cuemaker section...but OK, here goes again. This is my method...others may vary. I use the Searing method of glueing tips (primes both surfaces for ultimate adhesion) if anyone questions my glueing technique.;)
#1- face off ferrule and scuff face and lightly scuff black side of Sniper.
#2- apply thin coat of CA gel to ferrule face & tip back, then wipe off.
#3- when dry (only a couple of minutes) then rescuff both surfaces lightly.
#4- apply CA gel to ferrule face & coat evenly.
#5- press black side of Sniper against ferrule making sure its centered well.
#6- apply pressure for a minute or so
#7- while tip is spinning on lathe, I very lightly sand the outside wall of tip.
#8- now with the tip edge sanded slightly, the water will soak in better
#9- with tip spinning press a wet paper towel against tip wall until dark.
#10-take a section of utility blade and hold pretty flat against the ferrule.
#11- using a new very sharp blade is ultra important, I use OLFA HB.
#12- now trim tip from back toward tip while holding the blade flat.
#13- I like to re-wet the tip edge with every cut needed for cleanest cut.
#14- after tip is cut flush then blend to ferrule as normal.
#15- I like to wet tip edge again and burnish before shaping the dome.
#16- I cut off about 1/3 of the tip with razor so it isn't so tall.
#17- I slightly wet (cuts cleaner) the top and then radius the dome.
#18- polish the ferrule and tip side with your favorite secret sauce.

You are now complete. It seems as I use a lot of water but remember the Sniper leather is somewhat tricky and the water makes it cut easier and stress less. ***Less stress = no delam on install.*** Remember too, you are not soaking the tip, only dampening lightly. Using a new blade is very important as well...it needs to be as sharp as possible for least stress. When finished you should be able to press on the tip edge and see no movement...it should be just as stable as a hard Moori. If you see any movement or a layer flexing...you have a delam...cut it off & start over. The Sniper will sound different when you chalk it and when you hit with it...give it a chance and you'll have a new found control of the cueball like never before. I simply can do stuff with the Sniper that you can not with other tips. There is a reason so many of the worlds finest players use the Sniper. Hope I've been helpful...and remember I'm not responsible for any lost fingers with the OLFA blades...it takes skill & practice to use this technique with perfection.;)
 
Bishop,

The first couple of Moori med tips I had, seemed to glaze over very fast, I was constantly using a tip pik, while playing in a tournament, and I always had to make sure I had plenty of chalk on the tip. I seriously was scuffing up the tip about once a week. And Tip Pik'n it before, and while I would be playing.

The Moori tip I have on my Gilbert now, is FREAKING AMAZING!!!!!!!! I've scuffed the tip once, since having it put on and shaped. I tip pik it, about once or twice a week, generally before playing in a tournament. And the tip has yet to glaze over.

I also have a Tiger Dynamite tip on my cue from BHQ, and i scuffed that one up once and it has yet to glaze over. So I put the Dynamite tip right up there with Moori's.
 
Here's my take on it.

I've found the Tiger tips are very consistent from tip to tip. This requires skill and experience in slelecting the leather and Tiger has it. These tips are made under extreme controlled pressure - tons of it - and the leather has to be just right.

The Everest plays like a softer tip. To me they feel like a french leather tip. It needs a break in period and will firm up over time. I like them better once they're broken in. It gets a lot of spin and it's better for a player who likes to take soft strokes and play a touch game. If you're a power player, it grips very well, so you have to be careful with the power or you'll over stroke. A good all around tip. Superior chalk holding.

The Sniper plays a little softer than a Moori medium. It is a great tip for a power player, 9 ball etc. Requires no break in and holds it shape well. I like the snipers the best. To me the spin is more controllable and I rarely get a surprise result. It will get harder over time. I recommend changing them every 4 -6 months.

Moori - I tried them, miscued too much, couldn't get them to hold shape, inconsistent results.

Chris
 
Varney Cues said:
I went over it once in the cuemaker section...but OK, here goes again. This is my method...others may vary. I use the Searing method of glueing tips (primes both surfaces for ultimate adhesion) if anyone questions my glueing technique.;)
#1- face off ferrule and scuff face and lightly scuff black side of Sniper.
#2- apply thin coat of CA gel to ferrule face & tip back, then wipe off.
#3- when dry (only a couple of minutes) then rescuff both surfaces lightly.
#4- apply CA gel to ferrule face & coat evenly.
#5- press black side of Sniper against ferrule making sure its centered well.
#6- apply pressure for a minute or so
#7- while tip is spinning on lathe, I very lightly sand the outside wall of tip.
#8- now with the tip edge sanded slightly, the water will soak in better
#9- with tip spinning press a wet paper towel against tip wall until dark.
#10-take a section of utility blade and hold pretty flat against the ferrule.
#11- using a new very sharp blade is ultra important, I use OLFA HB.
#12- now trim tip from back toward tip while holding the blade flat.
#13- I like to re-wet the tip edge with every cut needed for cleanest cut.
#14- after tip is cut flush then blend to ferrule as normal.
#15- I like to wet tip edge again and burnish before shaping the dome.
#16- I cut off about 1/3 of the tip with razor so it isn't so tall.
#17- I slightly wet (cuts cleaner) the top and then radius the dome.
#18- polish the ferrule and tip side with your favorite secret sauce.

You are now complete. It seems as I use a lot of water but remember the Sniper leather is somewhat tricky and the water makes it cut easier and stress less. ***Less stress = no delam on install.*** Remember too, you are not soaking the tip, only dampening lightly. Using a new blade is very important as well...it needs to be as sharp as possible for least stress. When finished you should be able to press on the tip edge and see no movement...it should be just as stable as a hard Moori. If you see any movement or a layer flexing...you have a delam...cut it off & start over. The Sniper will sound different when you chalk it and when you hit with it...give it a chance and you'll have a new found control of the cueball like never before. I simply can do stuff with the Sniper that you can not with other tips. There is a reason so many of the worlds finest players use the Sniper. Hope I've been helpful...and remember I'm not responsible for any lost fingers with the OLFA blades...it takes skill & practice to use this technique with perfection.;)
Click to expand...

Kevin, thanks a bunch for listing the step-by-step again. I've printed it out and will keep it in my re-tipping kit. I'm sure a lot of other AZ'ers will do the same. IMO, a person can never have too much information on a subject such as this. Again, thanks!!!

Maniac
 
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