How much did your playing cue cost?
- Thread starter Pangit
- Start date
3k josswest is on the shelf
I played with that cue for years. But now I am playing with a cue I converted from 2 different house cues. An old american classic straight grain maple full splice into straight grain maple and a shaft from an old brunswick house cue. I converted these cues myself. So not counting labor my playing cue cost less than 10 bucks
I played with that cue for years. But now I am playing with a cue I converted from 2 different house cues. An old american classic straight grain maple full splice into straight grain maple and a shaft from an old brunswick house cue. I converted these cues myself. So not counting labor my playing cue cost less than 10 bucks
I bought my Runde 7 years ago for $1350. All the other cues that I play with, I haven't spent over $150 on any of them. I haven't found any justification in spending more than $150-200 on a cue and most all of them are customs. It's amazing what $150, knowledge and the persistence of a good hunt can get you.
2001 Shurtz (level 2) given to me for free. No idea what it is worth.
PDX...........you must have changed your thinking cuz 7 yrs back, $1300 didn't keep you from getting your Runde which you can sell for what you originally paid, as long as the cue remained in great condition, and probably even wind up making a profit.
So regardless of how you buy cues nowadays, buying a expensive cue from the right cue-maker still remains a solid investment.....unless you abuse your cue, it should not lose value unless you overpaid for it to start with. Obviously, buying any cue at the right price is always the objective, regardless of whether the cue's listed price is less than $500 or more than $5,000.......makes sense....right?
IMO as long as you do never overpay for your cue and strive to acquire your cue at the best hard-driving lowest price possible.....and take your time to be patient and shop.....fight the emotional urge to buy because you're getting impatient and .....you'll never lose money. It took be two years of shopping to get my Scruggs and Mottey cues and ironicaly, I bought the Scruggs first and two months later spotted the Mottey from a seller I spoke with a year earlier....and Wham....I wound up buying both cues which I can easily sell fast right now for what I originally paid, however, in all likelihood, I'd really wind up making a nice profit........if you buy right, you can't go wrong.
So regardless of how you buy cues nowadays, buying a expensive cue from the right cue-maker still remains a solid investment.....unless you abuse your cue, it should not lose value unless you overpaid for it to start with. Obviously, buying any cue at the right price is always the objective, regardless of whether the cue's listed price is less than $500 or more than $5,000.......makes sense....right?
IMO as long as you do never overpay for your cue and strive to acquire your cue at the best hard-driving lowest price possible.....and take your time to be patient and shop.....fight the emotional urge to buy because you're getting impatient and .....you'll never lose money. It took be two years of shopping to get my Scruggs and Mottey cues and ironicaly, I bought the Scruggs first and two months later spotted the Mottey from a seller I spoke with a year earlier....and Wham....I wound up buying both cues which I can easily sell fast right now for what I originally paid, however, in all likelihood, I'd really wind up making a nice profit........if you buy right, you can't go wrong.
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$1,000,000 dollars.
Vegas Al
Registered
I spent about $200 on a barely used Joss 95-01 back in '97. I picked up a no-name 11mm shaft for 80 bucks a few years later and just recently replaced that one with a 200 dollar OB-2. I've gone from being a complete beginner to being a sl 6 in APA 8-ball with this cue for a total investment of $500.
Olivier playing cue $2,800.00, Shon- $900.00, Olivier Jump-Break- $300.00
Plus a 314z shaft for playing cue.--Smitty
Plus a 314z shaft for playing cue.--Smitty
Paid $380.00 for this McDermott G501
Came with a G-Core Shaft - Pro-taper - 13mm - Sniper Tip
Bought a Predator Z Shaft - Conical Taper - 11.75mm - Tiger Everest Tip - $230.00
$610.00 total plus shipping from Pool Dawg - Bought this about a year ago.
Cheers!
Came with a G-Core Shaft - Pro-taper - 13mm - Sniper Tip
Bought a Predator Z Shaft - Conical Taper - 11.75mm - Tiger Everest Tip - $230.00
$610.00 total plus shipping from Pool Dawg - Bought this about a year ago.
Cheers!
I am currently playing with a 1950's Titlist conversion that I had done by Mike Pancerny who lives in Detroit.
It is "old school" style: Full-splice, 19.5 ounce, SS joint with super-tight fitting piloted compression wooden nipples, 5/16-14 SS pin, black joint collars with silver rings, Delrin butt cap, and white/green speck Irish linen wrap. I have one Pancerny 13mm shaft with his custom taper and a Predator 314-2 FAT shaft that I had him build from a blank.
One-piece Titlist: $150
Predator 314-2 FAT shaft blank: $191 (or so, at the time I bought it)
Conversion + 1 Pancerny shaft: Mike Pancerny's Fee
Who cares how much a cue costs, as long as it is well constructed?
As long as it hits "good", I don't care how much it costs or what it looks like (cosmetic wise). I keep my equipment it TIP-TOP playing condition and treat my cues like babies. I'm not into "looks"...I'm into GAME. I treat a $15 cue the same as a $1000 cue if it is my "playing" cue that I use as a preference.
Having worked in a pool hall for years, as a teen, and repairing all the misused cues, I learned to tell the good ones from the bad ones and I always "cherry-picked" the BEST (IMHO) cue from the bunch and used it as my "#1 playing cue". At the time, my "player" was a Brunswick one-piece house cue (Ebony butt), 21 ounce, 14mm at the tip, and hand-sanded pro taper (by me). I played just as well with this cue as I did with my custom-made cues I commissioned from Richard Black a few years later.
FWIW, I think the old Brunwick one-piece house cues from the 50s/60s hit as good as most custom cues...if you doctor them up to your liking.
It is "old school" style: Full-splice, 19.5 ounce, SS joint with super-tight fitting piloted compression wooden nipples, 5/16-14 SS pin, black joint collars with silver rings, Delrin butt cap, and white/green speck Irish linen wrap. I have one Pancerny 13mm shaft with his custom taper and a Predator 314-2 FAT shaft that I had him build from a blank.
One-piece Titlist: $150
Predator 314-2 FAT shaft blank: $191 (or so, at the time I bought it)
Conversion + 1 Pancerny shaft: Mike Pancerny's Fee
Who cares how much a cue costs, as long as it is well constructed?
As long as it hits "good", I don't care how much it costs or what it looks like (cosmetic wise). I keep my equipment it TIP-TOP playing condition and treat my cues like babies. I'm not into "looks"...I'm into GAME. I treat a $15 cue the same as a $1000 cue if it is my "playing" cue that I use as a preference.
Having worked in a pool hall for years, as a teen, and repairing all the misused cues, I learned to tell the good ones from the bad ones and I always "cherry-picked" the BEST (IMHO) cue from the bunch and used it as my "#1 playing cue". At the time, my "player" was a Brunswick one-piece house cue (Ebony butt), 21 ounce, 14mm at the tip, and hand-sanded pro taper (by me). I played just as well with this cue as I did with my custom-made cues I commissioned from Richard Black a few years later.
FWIW, I think the old Brunwick one-piece house cues from the 50s/60s hit as good as most custom cues...if you doctor them up to your liking.
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NYC cue dude
Banned
Gina $7000. Matching 1 of a kind Murnak case (he calls his masterpiece) approx $4000
PDX hit the nail squarely when he posted that it is a matter of priorities..........children are the greatest wealth any man can enjoy during his lifetime and nothing ....absolutely nothing.....is more important than a man's family............NOTHING!
I have a josh cue, my friend shorty won the ocean state with it a couple yrs ago and I bought it because I wanted to hang on to it! He's helped ke with my game so much, I kinda think of it as a "special" cue! After I hit a couple balls with it, I fell in love with it, so I started using it as my player, knowing eventually I would retire it! Well, a couple of weeks ago, I found myself in some one pocket games! Played for a few hrs, and won some cash! Instead of cash, he opted to give me his cues brand new predators, one sneaky Pete, and one bk2, with the joint protectors and a 3x6 instroke cowboy leather case! My cost?!?!?! About 5hrs of my precious time the best part of all, I finally get to retire my friend shortys cue. Priceless!
brand new predators, one sneaky Pete, and one bk2, with the joint protectors and a 3x6 instroke cowboy leather case! My cost?!?!?! About 5hrs of my precious time the best part of all, I finally get to retire my friend shortys cue. Priceless!In 1992 I paid $600 for a Paul Mottey with four points, two shafts and a jump butt. A major dealer at Allen Hopkin's Event told me it was worth about $2,100.00 in 2005. So I guess I got a deal from a fellow who gambled a little too much and had to pay his debts.
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Perhaps the OP would like to contribute under his new user name?