Yes, that looks ok to me. I would contend that from that position of the balls a player could not cleanly pocket the 8-ball and draw the cueball to the end cushion without touching the side cushion. I'd love to be shown it's possible though.
How to play this shot:
- Thread starter pocket
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Yes, that looks ok to me. I would contend that from that position of the balls a player could not cleanly pocket the 8-ball and draw the cueball to the end cushion without touching the side cushion. I'd love to be shown it's possible though.
Bob, is your table an accurate 9' table?
The table in the OP is not, so everyone knows. The shot will look a bit different on an actual 9' table than the OP. I measured it a while ago using the balls and the diamond distance. FYI, none of the current table drawing tools are a true 9' table. The CueTable was correct.
My table is accurate to about the width of a line. It was actually generated by equations in the last millennium and intended to match a 9' GC as closely as possible. The only major thing that could be fixed is the angles of the pocket facings which are too parallel (depending on which mechanic you had).
This is excatly what I was thinking glad you posted it so I don't think I'm crazy lol
1
The other night I set the shot up on my table to about what you have. If the cue ball is placed near that position or slightly left, or with the OB further away from the rail, with the red circle ball I could draw it back by just grazing the rail. One or two inches over to the right and it was a no go, but the side-rail to side-rail shot was easier.
So if you have more angle, side to side. Less angle, straight draw or three rails forward. Also, most of us could make that 9 ball from a steep angle, so soft draw kill would work too. As with most things in pool, there are many ways to do it and it depends on what the shooter is comfortable with.
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Thank you.
FYI, the current tables are off about .5 to 1 or so ball diameters for every diamond. They are too small.
I superposed my table on the posted diagram (after zooming) and centered the balls on the diagrammed balls. The OP table seems to be very slightly narrow.
Here's a video I did of the typical shots based on Bob's table layout. To pull off the 3rd shot, I had to move the OB about an inch or so to the right. (Please mute - the TV was going full blast downstairs). There is no way I would recommend the 3 rail follow shot, so I didn't shoot it. I like the 2nd shot the best based on this layout.
https://youtu.be/465qWxz3ZRw
https://youtu.be/465qWxz3ZRw
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I measured by using each current table, and freezing OB's together along the cushion between one pair of diamonds. Then doing the same on my 9' GC. What was on the current tables did not match. Off by 1/2 to a full ball diameter for each diamond distance.
This is for the table in the OP, and also the Chalky Sticks table.
JC
Coos Cues
That's the shot. The smaller the table, the easier to execute. For one you're much closer to the object ball giving whatever stroke you have more pazazz. Secondly the smaller the table the less angle the two balls have in that exact position.
JC
There are basically only 2 right ways to make this shot and get on the 9
#1 cut the Eightball but use low draw English just above medium speed not too hard
#2 which requires much more accuracy is to shoot the Eightball and put high right hand English in the cue ball making the cue ball run 4 rails for perfect shape on the 9 ball
I personally would probably use #1 on this shot. I have shot it both ways it also depends on the table and how fast it olays or slow it plays and how tight the pockets are.
Well, people keep coming up with bad shots.lol
I would opt for #2 most of the time. Speed doesnt have to be exact, as long as you get middle table coming down you will always be in position.
I just set it up according to the last diagram. I found that the angle did not seem as natural to use the draw/touch inside. I had to hit it quite firm which increased difficulty of the shot. Also ended up not quite in good position a few times. My table is a 9'. A bar table would be easier to be consistent to pot the ball and not get an odd result with position.
Going forward for me seemed easier with that angle. Both shots would increase difficulty with tighter pockets.
Uh, no. The smaller the table, the greater the angle you have between the cb and the ob.
I just tried this on my 7' table. Going two rails for position was easy. Left the cb on the bottom rail. Drawing back takes a good stroke. The best I could get on three tries, which was the same every try, was to bring the cb back right along the angle of the magic rack and stopping halfway back on the left side of the bottom of the rack template. On my slow table, very difficult to go three rails around the top of the table.
This looks like there is a big chance of scratching in the side or catching the point and getting sent to opposite side of the table. And the angle looks to be a bit less than the one in the original diagram.
Yes, I believe that the shot I was working on had more angle than what it looks like in that diagram. At least from an at the table view. Close though.
I worked on it last night on a different table. Had someone (who knows what they are talking about) watch me. Apparently I am gripping my cue to tight. Had me loosen up the grip and I was making the shot with position fairly easily.
This was on a different table, a gold crown. I'll have to try it on my table tonight and see if I get similar results.
Thanks to everyone for the input. I've enjoyed the discussion.
Hay wild man
All day long in the Florida humidity. In Arizona maybe not.
Also I play a 21 oz cue and a milk dud. I think it might be possible with lepros or triangles. I wouldn't try it with a layered tip or a light cue.
My point being the shot selection literally changes with the weather. One rail spin will be risky on wet cloth. Very risky. Straight and firm much better.
Nick
All day long in the Florida humidity. In Arizona maybe not.
Also I play a 21 oz cue and a milk dud. I think it might be possible with lepros or triangles. I wouldn't try it with a layered tip or a light cue.
My point being the shot selection literally changes with the weather. One rail spin will be risky on wet cloth. Very risky. Straight and firm much better.
Nick
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Below is a 60 sec video showing the shot on an actual 9' table from various angles. It is 1000% impossible to draw to the end rail. I would bet no one could even draw and clear the side pocket point (using a normal stroke, not a jacked up in the air masse artistic billiards stroke).
Set it up and see for yourself.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RyeOrng1QPg
Set it up and see for yourself.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RyeOrng1QPg