Cut the 9 ball in and nudge the 11.
Shoot the 3
Shoot the 8
Make the 11 in the side
15 in your break ball
How would you play this?
- Thread starter alstl
- Start date
Cut the 9 ball in and nudge the 11.
Shoot the 3
Shoot the 8
Make the 11 in the side
15 in your break ball
11, 3, 8, 9 and save the 15 for the break shot!
I'm not a Straight Pool player, but I learned from the best. First of all, you take what the table gives you! You want to, as quickly as possible, get rid of the ball down table, in this case the 3 ball. That about sums it up.
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:wink:
YOu know me!
I like the 8 first too, roll fwd a bit, shoot 9 next- 2rail out of corner, SHOOT 3 NEXT (fUKIKN cAPS lOCK), either follow or draw to 11 in either pictured L) pocket.
Play shape on 15 to carom it off racked balls and sell out.
YOu know me!
I like the 8 first too, roll fwd a bit, shoot 9 next- 2rail out of corner, SHOOT 3 NEXT (fUKIKN cAPS lOCK), either follow or draw to 11 in either pictured L) pocket.
Play shape on 15 to carom it off racked balls and sell out.
Same here. I like naturals at the end when I can get them, and 8/9/15 is pretty natural. Plus, the 8 ball is another potential break ball if something goes really awry on the 11/3.
Aaron
This was my first thought. After giving careful consideration to all the options, I still believe this sequence offers the most natural shape with the least that could go wrong.
I agree with this 11-3-8-9-15 pattern also. What I find most interesting is that as long as you get decent on the 8, you can guarantee a very high-percentage position play from the 9 to the 15. This makes the 9-ball a much better key ball than the 11, IMO, even though the 11 is a stop-shot key ball if you get straight. If you get a little too much angle on the 11, it's a very bad key ball. For the 9, whether you get straight in, mild angle on either side, or moderate angle on either side, you're still going to have a high-percentage route to the break shot position.
-Andrew
Shoot the 8, 3, 11,and use the 9 in the uper left corner for 2 rail shape in the 15 as the break ball. The position of the 9 is often overlooked as a natural shot to get 2 rail position for the break shot. I agree in advance that it is not optimal but you have to play what the table gives you.
I would use the WEI table to diagram this but everytime I learn to use the WEI the program changes and I have to relearn how to use it. I'll have to research how to page through again.
I would use the WEI table to diagram this but everytime I learn to use the WEI the program changes and I have to relearn how to use it. I'll have to research how to page through again.
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Yes, the 9-ball can work as a key ball no matter what angle you get on it.
If I had a better shot on the 9, I would consider leaving the 11 as a key ball, but only because I could use the 8-ball to set up for it in the side and guarantee easy position for the break shot. I don't like the 11 in the corner as a key ball because anything left of straight-in can be problematic, and the 3-ball is the hardest ball on the table to play position off of.
Aaron
That's my philosophy, not saying I'm a good player and there is no right or wrong way to play 14.1, but I like the KISS system. Keep it simple stupid. Less cueball movement is better.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVz5PZOZvCg
Awww, you pulled a switcheroo on us Al. :wink:
It's ok, though. I still play my pattern because the 11 doesn't pass the 15, that 3 has to go soon, and I still like the 9 as a key ball... although I might play it in the same corner as the 8 and swing around 2 rails for the break shot.
Or, depending on what the 9 looks like, I might play 9-3-8-11. If the 9 is not too thin, I like that pattern the best.
Al, you should look up Harry Boul if you haven't done so. He lives in your town, and loves to play straight pool (and I'm sure he's quite knowledgeable about it). Also, I'll be playing in Millersburg tomorrow night if you want to get together and hit some.
Oh, and nice out. If you want to get some great feedback on your entire pattern, you should post it in the 14.1 section.
Aaron
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After looking at the diagram it looks a bit different. From looking at the diagram it appears the 11 is straight in the side, but looking at the video you posted there is quite a bit of cut into the side pocket which changes the shot considerably.
Edit: Ok, i watched the whole run instead of just the end part. I'm not one to talk bad or criticize anybody but i think you should work on your draw stroke. When you shot the ball next to the 3 ball (i think it's the 4) you should have easily just put some low right and pulled it back to shoot the 3 next, but you just hit it and the cue came straight across the table leaving you a long shot. It looks like you tried to draw it back but you got no action on the cueball. Then the next shot you also should have pulled the cue back but kinda just stopped it.
Edit: Ok, i watched the whole run instead of just the end part. I'm not one to talk bad or criticize anybody but i think you should work on your draw stroke. When you shot the ball next to the 3 ball (i think it's the 4) you should have easily just put some low right and pulled it back to shoot the 3 next, but you just hit it and the cue came straight across the table leaving you a long shot. It looks like you tried to draw it back but you got no action on the cueball. Then the next shot you also should have pulled the cue back but kinda just stopped it.
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alstl, it must be a Missouri thing. 
I like the 8-9-11-3-15 sequence as well.
Almost any shot on the 3 gets you to the 15.
But I suggest that you use the KISS system earlier in the rack.
You moved far too many balls that didn't need moving.
Willie would have disapproved
The 3-ball shouldn't have been there at that stage.
The 8 doesn't pass the 6 so my main concern when I shot the 4 was getting on the 6. I didn't try to draw it nor did I try to draw the next shot. I tried to do exactly what I did.
I like the 8-9-11-3-15 sequence as well.
Almost any shot on the 3 gets you to the 15.
But I suggest that you use the KISS system earlier in the rack.
You moved far too many balls that didn't need moving.
Willie would have disapproved
The 3-ball shouldn't have been there at that stage.
I know it wasn't a classic run. The main reason I posted it was because the end was an interesting choice of how to get on the break ball. Conventional wisdom is get rid of the 3 early but with a ball near the side pocket and a break ball on the same side of the table the 3 becomes a nice key ball.
And, I saw Willie draw two rails to get on a key ball on the head rail a couple weeks ago in an old video. I don't feel so bad after watching that.
Thanks for the offer Aaron but I haven't been playing much lately. Maybe another time.
E-Rock77
Registered
I just started playing 14.1, but here's what I'd do:
Stop shot on the 11 in the side, a little draw on the 3 in the corner, if straight on the 8, shoot another stop shot and follow on the nine back to around center table for the break.
If not straight on the 8 after the 3 because the ball drew too much, then thin-cut the nine in to the bottom left (on screen) and go 2 rails for position on the 8. get to the break ball from there with either draw or follow, depending on position.
Stop shot on the 11 in the side, a little draw on the 3 in the corner, if straight on the 8, shoot another stop shot and follow on the nine back to around center table for the break.
If not straight on the 8 after the 3 because the ball drew too much, then thin-cut the nine in to the bottom left (on screen) and go 2 rails for position on the 8. get to the break ball from there with either draw or follow, depending on position.
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Ths is how any straight pool chamipon woudl play this layout :thumbup: Im no champion but this is what i saw as the best out possible. Less cueball movement with solid position is the only way to play straight pool. When you watch champions play this game it makes you want to quit!!!
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