I need some collets and other stuff for my lathe

snipershot

snipershot

Go ahead.....run for it.
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I just got a new lathe, and when I put a shaft in the chuck with the collet that came with it, it wobbles like hell! Without the collet, it spins straight as an arrow. So where's the best place to get new quality collets? I also need collets to chuck up the shaft at the joint end. Thanks.

Joe
 
snipershot said:
I just got a new lathe, and when I put a shaft in the chuck with the collet that came with it, it wobbles like hell! Without the collet, it spins straight as an arrow. So where's the best place to get new quality collets? I also need collets to chuck up the shaft at the joint end. Thanks.

Joe
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Since you now have a lathe, you can order some delrin and make some of your own. It's good to get in the habit of making such jigs and fixtures yourself because that way when you need something a little different in size, thread or whatever you're able to do it. You might also want to make a variety of butt center plugs and some delrin arbors to fit different threads that fit different cues also so you can work on not only cues you make but those made by other cuemakers. I keep a supply of delrin around just for such small jigs and fixtures. You can make them in 5 - 10 minutes which beats waiting for someone to send some to you.
 
Hi,

Bored tapered ID collets to match your taper in various sizes of your cue are the most accurate, IMO.

Rick Geschrey
 
cuesmith said:
Since you now have a lathe, you can order some delrin and make some of your own. It's good to get in the habit of making such jigs and fixtures yourself because that way when you need something a little different in size, thread or whatever you're able to do it. You might also want to make a variety of butt center plugs and some delrin arbors to fit different threads that fit different cues also so you can work on not only cues you make but those made by other cuemakers. I keep a supply of delrin around just for such small jigs and fixtures. You can make them in 5 - 10 minutes which beats waiting for someone to send some to you.
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Thanks man! I never even thought of that. The only thing is, I have no idea where to start, lol. Ill check atlas and cuecompnents for some delrin. Damn I love this site! Lol!

Joe
 
snipershot said:
Thanks man! I never even thought of that. The only thing is, I have no idea where to start, lol. Ill check atlas and cuecompnents for some delrin. Damn I love this site! Lol!

Joe
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It is a common item you should be able to get from a local plastics supplier. I will bet you will also pay like 60% less then if you order from Atlas or any place that sells it as a specialty item. Ever buy screws at a boating supply?

I just checked on something I buy to compere. 1 inch Delrin at Atlas $8.71 a foot. I pay at Farco $2.90
 
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macguy said:
It is a common item you should be able to get from a local plastics supplier. I will bet you will also pay like 60% less then if you order from Atlas or any place that sells it as a specialty item. Ever buy screws at a boating supply?
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Good point man. Ill try to find out if we have a plastic supplier here in town.

Joe
 
snipershot said:
I just got a new lathe, and when I put a shaft in the chuck with the collet that came with it, it wobbles like hell! Without the collet, it spins straight as an arrow. So where's the best place to get new quality collets? I also need collets to chuck up the shaft at the joint end. Thanks.

Joe
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Joe, you can go to Porpers website and by whatever you need.

They are very good quality, and not that expensive.
 
snipershot said:
Is $47 plus shipping a good price for a 2 foot piece of 2inch delrin rod?

Joe
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You don't need 2".
1.5 for the butts.
1.125 for the joints.
.750 for the ferrules.

You will need to true up the outside then bore the holes.
For joints and buttsleeve you will need a taper for the inside hole .
.012" per inch is a good general taper . It will work for most butts as long as you have a nice slit in the middle.
For ferrules, a straight hole will work unless you are working on those dumb billiard or Z2 shafts. :D
 
If you buy 2 inch delrin and you just have a cue lathe (no metal lathe) you can't chuck it up and delrin is harder to turn between centers than wood because the bit will grab in delrin. My metal lathe was down and I had 2 in delrin and I hacksawed three cuts on the end to chuck it with so I could turn the hole rod down. So you need 1 3/8ths rod for anything or 1 inch just for the two ends of shafts and once you chuck it up turn the outside and bore before removeng to slit the sidewall.--Leonard
 
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How do you get a tapered hole?

scdiveteam said:
Hi,

Bored tapered ID collets to match your taper in various sizes of your cue are the most accurate, IMO.

Rick Geschrey
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I'm new at lathe work and was wondering: What is the method of getting the id tapered? A special cutting tool?

I can picture the drilling and boring, but can't figure out how to get the hole tapered.

Would be nice if there was a youtube video of collet making.
 
Redneck Jim said:
I'm new at lathe work and was wondering: What is the method of getting the id tapered? A special cutting tool?

I can picture the drilling and boring, but can't figure out how to get the hole tapered.



Would be nice if there was a youtube video of collet making.
Click to expand...


To taper the hole,you either need for a manual lathe, a compound slide or set up your taper bar to bore the taper that is required.
For some machines, it is best to mark a location on the collet, finish turn the od of the collet and ruf out the id.The set up the collet blank into the lathe jaws that it is going to be used in, with the location mark aligned to a repeatable position.
Then finish bore the collet in that chuck. When finished, you can split it.
Every time the collet goes back to the mark and the jaws closed to the same diameter point, it will continue to run true.
 
Thanks for all the help everybody! Ive got a lot to figure out. Thanks for the heads up Joey, i appreciate it!

Joe
 
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