joints

jfais1717

jfais1717

A.K.A Jimmy Tipless
Silver Member
not to smoke since im sure ill get that reply lol. whats your favorite joint and why. material and pin and collar and everything to do with the joint. this isnt a players thread. its to hear why the cuemakers use specific joints and why.
who wants to start?
 
I prefer a flat faced joint with a hard, resiliant collar material such as phenolic, antler or a thermoset plastic. Makes for a strong bond that doesn't influence playability and allows nearly full contact of surfaces. My pin of choice is a 3/8-10 flat bottom thread because the thread style has a high percentage of contact and the 3/8-10 is so common in cues that any cue tech can work on it for maintenance & cleaning. I prefer brass or aluminum depending on weight/balance requirements. Both are strong but pliable, perfect for cues.
 
I prefer the 5/16-14 flat faced joint with phenolikc collars with either brass insert or polymerized wood threads. This gives the crispest hit that I found. I have built a few cues with the 3/8" pins, but feel the heit is a little less crisp with them. Others probably feel differently, so it comes down to a matter of taste. If I am going to build the 3/8" pin I prefer the 3/8-10 with flat minor diameter also. I just got my son a set of carbide mandrels for that joint, so I will now offer both styles of joints.
 
Joint Preference

I am the "new guy on the block" so to speak. I believe that whatever joint used in cue construction; must be built in a manner of perfection whether piloted or flat faced. I have seen both types from the elite builders (Tascarella, Hercek,BB, Gus & Schick). I really like 3/8x10 for the same reasons as stated above. Lots of contact area being the main point
for me. Ease of repair as well. My 0.16c worth
Paul
 
Hi,

I also prefer a flat faced joint ( phenolic, ivory or Juma ) and I use a 3/8" X 14 truncated pin with a 60 degree center. I also epoxy a 1/2" X 1.5" insert made of Garolite LE in my shafts before drilling & taping.

Rick G
 
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3/8x10 pin i use stainless brass or phenolis all depends on the target weight really, i prefer this pin as i dont like to use inserts in my shafts.
 
well as for me, i would prefer to use radial pin with threaded phenolic joint collars for the best connection and perfect conduction of vibration to the butt...
 
man, some great answers guys! all very informative. its so amazing seeing the difference that such a seemingly small part of the cue can make. i appreciate all the answers guys!
 
threaded phenolic collars, with or w/o phenolic shaft insert, flat faced joint surface, 3/8-10 brass pin:D
 
wood

1/2 by 8 wood pin using elk or linen phenolic collars, flat face.

i believe the less, steel, brass, titanium, g10, etc ,etc, the better.

chuck starkey
 
What desi said... I prefer wood on wood, feels like a whole cue not 2 piece. Where do you find the screws for those? I'm waiting to purchase a cue and get that done.
 
jfais1717 said:
not to smoke since im sure ill get that reply lol. whats your favorite joint and why. material and pin and collar and everything to do with the joint. this isnt a players thread. its to hear why the cuemakers use specific joints and why.
who wants to start?
Click to expand...

i prefer a phenolic based material for the joint, flat faced and a 3/8-10 ss or brass pin. Phenolic gives a more consistent performance as to material resilience, hardness etc.
 
I use a flat faced joint with a 3/8-11 brass pin with a 60 degree center drill as my standard. I like phenolic or ivory for the collar. I will also use a g-10 pin if saving weight is an issue, but only if needed, an aluminum pin would be my first choice.

I feel this joint combination gives me the stiff and solid feel Im looking for.
 
Joints

Flat faced 3/8-10 w/ phenolic, buckhorn, axis or ivory (have used Coco and Ebony) sleeve on the butt. Phenolic sleeve on the shaft w/1/2" diam x 1 1/2" Katalox (sometimes Olive or Ebony) insert. I'm with Joey on the must for 24 hour epoxy.
 
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