Magic Eraser

Here is a picture of the box Jay -

magiceraser.jpg


I use the magic eraser dry, or I use it with a small amount of denatured alcohol. I burnish the shaft with a piece of of brown paper bag - works well. I do not use sandpaper on my shafts at all.
 
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I buy it at Home Depot or Lowe's and use with denatured alcohol.

Finally, I apply several coats of Butcher's Wax, buff vigorously, and
the finished product looks near new again.
 
I use the magic eraser dry, or I use it with a small amount of denatured alcohol. I burnish the shaft with a piece of of brown paper bag - works well. I do not use sandpaper on my shafts at all.

That's what I wanted to hear. I think I'll give it a try on my car trunk cue before even considering using it on my player.

I know a lot of guys swear by it and I haven't heard anyone say it ruined their shaft, but I just do NOT want to have to take sand paper to my playing cues.
 
That's what I wanted to hear. I think I'll give it a try on my car trunk cue before even considering using it on my player.

I know a lot of guys swear by it and I haven't heard anyone say it ruined their shaft, but I just do NOT want to have to take sand paper to my playing cues.

I've used it for a couple of years now and have had no problems at all,(knock on wood)I use it on my Predator Z shaft once every two weeks. I have a small piece of M/E cut for the ferrule,the den.alcohol could seperate the glues in your ferrule and tip if your not carefull. I use 1000/1500 grit (or Q-Wiz,same thing) on the shaft lightly to get off a layer of gunk/wax off,no sanding. You would be surprised on how much dirt/chalk build up is on the shaft. Also, M/E works very well on Billiard balls.
 
I buy it at Home Depot or Lowe's and use with denatured alcohol.

Finally, I apply several coats of Butcher's Wax, buff vigorously, and
the finished product looks near new again.

EXACTLY. The denatured alky is great for cleaning but it does remove wax or sealers. So after ALWAYS reseal or rewax and then burnish/polish.

EDIT: After thought- Avoid getting alky on the ferrule, it could cause the plastics to break down.

Terry
 
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EXACTLY. The denatured alky is great for cleaning but it does remove wax or sealers. So after ALWAYS reseal or rewax and then burnish/polish.

EDIT: After thought- Avoid getting alky on the ferrule, it could cause the plastics to break down.

Terry

Interesting, is this the alky on the ferrule true and has anyone has problems with it? I like using it to get the blue marks off of it.. I haven't started using it on my OB-2 yet but I wonder if it could affect its maple ferrule.
 
Here is a picture of the box Jay -

magiceraser.jpg


I use the magic eraser dry, or I use it with a small amount of denatured alcohol. I burnish the shaft with a piece of of brown paper bag - works well. I do not use sandpaper on my shafts at all.

Thanks.....
 
Interesting, is this the alky on the ferrule true and has anyone has problems with it? I like using it to get the blue marks off of it.. I haven't started using it on my OB-2 yet but I wonder if it could affect its maple ferrule.

Not sure if it's caused problems with them but it was discussed awhile back and some cuemakers didn't think it was a good idea. As for the OB my thought would be that just like the shaft if the sealer/wax comes out the pores then the wood grain is open and that could allow ANY liquid to cause the wood to swell or get fuzzy (raised wood grain). A quick wipe probably wouldn't hurt though. I like to have a thin film of wax on my ferrule so I can just wipe the chalk off and reapply the wax after.

Terry
 
A very well respected cuemaker turned me on to go jo hand cleaner w/ pumice. Will do same or better than magic eraser but way cheaper. I then burnish w/ the back of a piece of 1200 wet n dry.
 
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