New old cue treatment

Merleti

Registered
What is the proper way to treat an old cue when you receive it? I just purchased an older 1967/68 cue and oiled the wood down when I received it. I pulled it out a couple of days later and notice a couple of cracks in the wood I did not see before. They may have been there before since I was so excited to see get. However I'm wondering if I made a mistake oiling it right away since it came from Ohio and I live in Florida a humid state. Your thoughts? Thank you for your input in advance.
 

ceebee

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Actually Tongue Oil isn't a bad finish, You do have to do the process right, to avoid a bad finish.
 

Black-Balled

He Rides the Skies
Silver Member
I prefer the tung rubbed cues to the current trend of auto acrylics...Is that a diy kind of thing?

Shit, I might sand my butt and oil it myself too. Yeah, i said that.
 

$TAKE HOR$E

champagne - campaign
Silver Member
What is the proper way to treat an old cue when you receive it? I just purchased an older 1967/68 cue and oiled the wood down when I received it. I pulled it out a couple of days later and notice a couple of cracks in the wood I did not see before. They may have been there before since I was so excited to see get. However I'm wondering if I made a mistake oiling it right away since it came from Ohio and I live in Florida a humid state. Your thoughts? Thank you for your input in advance.

What kind of cue is it...does it have a regular clear finish or was it an oil finish cue already?
 

qbilder

slower than snails
Silver Member
Going from a cold Ohio winter to anywhere in Florida will not make the wood crack. Cracks happen when the wood loses enough moisture to shrink, which is cell walls collapsing, imploding, causing the cracks. The cracks likely existed and the oil weeping down into them revealed them by making them look darker. And gunk or dirt would significantly darken when saturated, as would the grain.
 

ibuycues

I Love Box Cues
Gold Member
Silver Member
Going from a cold Ohio winter to anywhere in Florida will not make the wood crack. Cracks happen when the wood loses enough moisture to shrink, which is cell walls collapsing, imploding, causing the cracks. The cracks likely existed and the oil weeping down into them revealed them by making them look darker. And gunk or dirt would significantly darken when saturated, as would the grain.

Good post, informative.
Will Prout
 

bobco729

bobco729
Silver Member
George Balabushka finished all of his cues by rubbing several coats of tongue oil on them to create a really nice patina.
 

Cuebuddy

Mini cues
Silver Member
Tung Oil can be used but from my experience it is a very slow "old school" process. Filling the grain takes time and sanding back just to the wood surface after the grain has been filled is the secret. It can be a beautiful and durable finish.

Although I have little experience using tongue oil:p
 

Merleti

Registered
Sorry for the late reply busy month.

$TAKE HOR$E it is a Viking Level 2 "R150" as early as 1967.


I was told by someone that't been playing pool awhile that using tung oil on older cues that do not have a finish is a good idea.
 

jimmyco

NRA4Life
Gold Member
Silver Member
Tung Oil can be used but from my experience it is a very slow "old school" process. Filling the grain takes time and sanding back just to the wood surface after the grain has been filled is the secret. It can be a beautiful and durable finish.

Although I have little experience using tongue oil:p

I agree. And it just feels right in the hand. All I will use on revolver grips.
 

Merleti

Registered
Also since we are on restoration. I have use Bar Keepers Friend on SS joints. Any problems associated with using it?
 
Top