Newbie Question- Changing a Tip?

[3andstop]

Perhaps I can add a tip also. (Pun intended )

If you use one of those hand crank sanding disk tools, be sure to pad your shaft before tightening this thing to it or you will have a ding in the shaft for sure and have to steam it out.

After you glue your tip on, have an over sized rubber band that has been cut open ready. Run it over the shaft and tip, about 5 inche on either side, wrap the band around the shaft a few inches below the ferrule and then roll the elastic band up over itself to hold it in place. This will afford the tip some extra pressure while drying and also allow you to quickly center the tip and hold it in place without using one of those crazy tools that really ruin your shaft.

 

[cuetable]

Yep (though De Niro mispronounced it).

I lived in Thailand from 1984-1988. Out of the 4 years I have only seen a bar table once (they all play snooker). Do people play more pool now?

I visited Koh Samui twice (long over night bus ride from Bangkok + a short ferry ride). How is the life right now after the tragic incident?

This is indeed a great article if you don't have a repairman, http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=51018 . I'd recommend Sniper or Moori over LePro because of the mushroom factor.

 

[NervousNovice]

I learned from here. Useful guide.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=51018

I also watched the videos from Seybert's http://www.seyberts.com/cue_accessories/kits/popupimages/tipkit.htm

Here are my advices after changing a few tips.

1. The LocLite glue is good. I think you can get it from Pooldawg. You don't need to wait overnight. Glue your tip. Apply pressure for 2 mins. Then wait for 30 mins and you're ready to trim.

2. The big shaver tool is not as good as it is for two reasons. 1) The black tube where you stuck the shaft in, is not large enough for new 14 mm tip before the trimming. 2) The adjustable knob still damage my OB-1 wooden ferrule (how sad). I ended up taking a clamp and pull the whole black thing out, leaving a big nice hole and just use the metal block and blade directly. Now it works.

3. Don't start trimming the edge of the tip by cutting it down with razor blade. It can delaminate a layered tip like Sniper. For layered tip, I would wet the edge of the tip and trim it with the big shaver all the way. Unless you are very very skillful, trimming with a razor blade won't give you a smooth round finish, it gives a dodecagon.

4. In the guide, it says "trim till you have something left and start sanding". From my experience, you basically need to trim the cue tip to its final radius before sanding because it would take too long to do the final shaping with sand paper (even if you start with 600 grit).

5. Triangle tips don't burnish well. For unknown reason I can never get that sparkling shiny finish of a tip by burnishing with a piece of leather so I just sand the edge up to 2000 grit and leave it there.

6. It's good to start shaping the top of a (flat new) tip with a long strip of sandpaper i.e. the metal trimmer. You want to get a slightly curved dome with leveled line along the edge of the tip. After that, use a Williard shaper.

7. Tip preference is really personal. For layered tip, a lot of people like Sniper and Moori. I didn't like the Talisman Pro M that came with the OB-1 so I changed it to a Sniper. It is soft when new and gets a bit harder after break in. My friend used a Moori M on his Dominiak and it was stiff like a steel rod (literally). He hated it and changed back to a Triangle. For non layered tip, the most popular choice is Triangle, then LePro. People say Triangle has a similar hit as Sniper. I prefer a layered tip for its consistency.

8. If this is your first time changing a tip, experiment with a Triangle or LePro and fine tune your skill first. It hurts less to screw up a Triangle than a Moori.

 

[Irish634]

Here is another thread on the subject with some nice pictures.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=51018

Like I mentioned in post#8, I made a pdf file of that thread. However RiverCity owns it, so you'll have to request it from him (unless of course he says it's ok for me to give it out.

It really is a well put together instructional thread.

Craig

 

[gobrian77]

I lived in Thailand from 1984-1988. Out of the 4 years I have only seen a bar table once (they all play snooker). Do people play more pool now?

I visited Koh Samui twice (long over night bus ride from Bangkok + a short ferry ride). How is the life right now after the tragic incident?

Samui is on the east coast (Gulf side) and was completely unaffected by the tsunami (I felt the quake that caused it, but it was so slight that if I hadn't spent eight years in Tokyo- where there is a lot of seismic activity- I would not have recognized the sensation and would have attributed it to construction activity or something).

Business went absolutely through the roof afterwards- all the west coast business (mostly from Phuket) came to Samui, and the surge hasn't really subsided- the island is now firmly on the map (though infrastructure hasn't kept up with business expansion and things might not be so rosy in a few years...)

There are pool table in nearly every bar these days (no room for snooker tables )- the condition of the tables varies (from really bad to not that bad ). There are plenty of snooker rooms around, by they are patronized mostly by the locals, and they generally play eight-ball on them (not an ideal game on a 10 or 12 foot table with tiny pockets).

This is a link to the best domestic manufacturer- http://www.patana.co.th/, and a link to the premier pool bar in Bangkok- http://www.theballinhand.com

 

[gobrian77]

Thanks for all the "tips", guys.

I'm gonna order some tips and tools and figure out how to do it, using what I learned here as a guide- what's the worst thing that could happen?

 

[NervousNovice]

Thanks for all the "tips", guys.

I'm gonna order some tips and tools and figure out how to do it, using what I learned here as a guide- what's the worst thing that could happen?

The worst thing that could happen is you damage your ferrule. So don't go all out cutting off the old tip with a razor blade. Do it slowly with patience. Let the cue top sander do the final job. Again, don't go crazy with the cue top sander. It sands quickly. A few rotations are enough.

I take a lot of time to razor blade off the old tip. It's not like "chop it off" with one cut or two.

 

[gobrian77]

The worst thing that could happen is you damage your ferrule. So don't go all out cutting off the old tip with a razor blade. Do it slowly with patience. Let the cue top sander do the final job. Again, don't go crazy with the cue top sander. It sands quickly. A few rotations are enough.

I take a lot of time to razor blade off the old tip. It's not like "chop it off" with one cut or two.

Yep, I can definitely see that happening- my tendency would be to cut away the tip in thin layers until I get close to the ferrule so I wouldn't damage it- when you're 10,000 miles away from replacement parts you don't take unnecessary chances (at least I don't).

 

[Dartman]

A thin coat of Super Glue Gel (available in many stores) works fine. Keep steady finger pressure on the tip for about 5 minutes and you can start trimming. Make sure you sand off the coating on the back of the tip before installing it. LePro tips are med-hard, hold up well and are used by many production cue manufacturers.

 

[McChen]

a couple other useful tips i didn't see anyone mention:

i like to use a cyanoacrylate accelerant, it sets the glue very fast and you can begin trimming in like 10 seconds. you do have to be very accurate putting the tip on as you have no time to reposition.

tips stay on better if you cut a hatch mark pattern onto the back using an exacto knife. certain tips, particularly elkmaster are hard and smooth even if you sand the back with 60 grit sandpaper and i had a hard time getting them to stay on. cutting the pattern on the back really helps a lot, it gives the glue a good surface to grab on to, haven't had a problem with any tips ever coming off since doing that.

 

[gobrian77]

a couple other useful tips i didn't see anyone mention:

i like to use a cyanoacrylate accelerant, it sets the glue very fast and you can begin trimming in like 10 seconds. you do have to be very accurate putting the tip on as you have no time to reposition.

How do you say that in Thai?

I see your point about cutting a pattern in the back of the tip, though- I'll try that.

 

[RiverCity]

Like I mentioned in post#8, I made a pdf file of that thread. However RiverCity owns it, so you'll have to request it from him (unless of course he says it's ok for me to give it out.

It really is a well put together instructional thread.

Craig

Thanks guys, Im glad that post is still useful!
Please feel free to share the file Craig, if anyone wants it, pm Irish634 or myself and we can send you the pdf file.
(thanks again for giving it a spellcheck when you made the file...... )
Chuck

 

[Shawn Putnam]

If anything, you want a larger tip to start with, as you will trim it down flush. Also, harder tips don't mushroom easily and last longer. Use a cyanoacrylic (ie. "superglue") and a razor blade to trim off the old tip. Sand both surfaces (bottom of tip and top of ferrule) to make the surfaces rough and flat. I use a disk that spins with sandpaper on it made by tweetens. I would get either a triangle or a layered tip such as Talisman, Moori, or my favorite, the Sniper.

I like the Tiger Super glue.
Never had a tip fall off yet.

 

[JimS]

Buy some junk cues on ebay to practice on or go to a pawn shop and find some junk cues, or check with a pool room and see if they have some you can practice on. The lesson is, practice on some junk cues! It's not easy, imo, to get it right without damaging the ferrule. Get this tool for sure http://www.poolndarts.com/p-3529-Rapid-Cue-Top-Sander/

Good luck. You have a new friend in cueaba that might have some ideas for you as he's a good player but I don't know if he has experience in doing tip work.

 

[gobrian77]

Buy some junk cues on ebay to practice on or go to a pawn shop and find some junk cues, or check with a pool room and see if they have some you can practice on. The lesson is, practice on some junk cues! It's not easy, imo, to get it right without damaging the ferrule. Get this tool for sure http://www.poolndarts.com/p-3529-Rapid-Cue-Top-Sander/

Good luck. You have a new friend in cueaba that might have some ideas for you as he's a good player but I don't know if he has experience in doing tip work.

The worst cue I have at the moment is an unchalked Players that runs about $130 (got it for $55 and am saving it for a gift for someone )- I've got an older (~'91) Meucci HOF-1 that a friend gave me, but the tip looks OK and I would hate to screw it up by practicing on it- I agree, though, that learning on an old cue is the way to go- I might call the folks currently building my table to see what they can do for me.

 

[Varney Cues]

Buy some junk cues on ebay to practice on or go to a pawn shop and find some junk cues. The lesson is, practice on some junk cues! It's not easy, imo, to get it right without damaging the ferrule.

You pay for shipping & I'll be happy to send you some "junk" shafts to practice on. How many would you like 10? 20? No need to buy any...let me know.

 

[lights_out]

Everything everyone has said on here is good information. Two things I do may save you from superglue issues. First, after I prep the ferrule, I wrap a piece of thick vinyl tape around it flush with the prepped surface to protect from the glue that will inevitably ooze out when you press the tip to the ferrule. Second, I cut a piece of plastic food wrap and wrap it down the shaft, overlapping the vinyl tape. Chances are you'll end up with superglue on your fingers and if you grab the shaft you'll end up having to sand it off, not a lot of fun. Leave both on until the glue dries and you're ready to begin trimming the new tip.

 

[gobrian77]

You pay for shipping & I'll be happy to send you some "junk" shafts to practice on. How many would you like 10? 20? No need to buy any...let me know.

Wow- I really appreciate that offer.

I'm gonna call my Bangkok pool table manufacturer in the morning (it's just after 9pm on Sunday night here- I'm 11 hours ahead of EST) to see if they can help me out, and if they can't, I'll definitely take you up it.

 

[gobrian77]

Everything everyone has said on here is good information. Two things I do may save you from superglue issues. First, after I prep the ferrule, I wrap a piece of thick vinyl tape around it flush with the prepped surface to protect from the glue that will inevitably ooze out when you press the tip to the ferrule. Second, I cut a piece of plastic food wrap and wrap it down the shaft, overlapping the vinyl tape. Chances are you'll end up with superglue on your fingers and if you grab the shaft you'll end up having to sand it off, not a lot of fun. Leave both on until the glue dries and you're ready to begin trimming the new tip.

Hehe- OK, I added that to my list (which is now less a list than a manual ).

I'm really just sitting here laughing a bit- I just super-glued the head back onto a small statue (broken courtesy of my golden retriever) and glued it to my fingers.

 

[lights_out]

Hehe- OK, I added that to my list (which is now less a list than a manual ).

I'm really just sitting here laughing a bit- I just super-glued the head back onto a small statue (broken courtesy of my golden retriever) and glued it to my fingers.

LOL, you should have glued the head of the statue to your golden retriever!