One-piece cue + other advice

Blackball75

Blackball75
Silver Member
Hi Guys,

I'm thinking of getting a 1-piece cue as an alternative to my 2-piece one. This is because I get more "feel" with such a cue.

Can anyone:

- Recommend any good models for <$150
- Say where you can buy a hard carrying case for 1-piece cues
- Recommend what I replace the Uni-Loc joint on my 2-piece with in order to get a feel more like a 1-piece

Thanks! :)
 
Look for an old or new Duffrin (spelled wrong i think) one piece that was made in Canada. As far as the case I'm sure if you google, call a billiard supply house or case maker you will find where to get one. snookerstuff.com for the case. Johnnyt
 
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I've got a couple Meuller coco into maple house cues in my pool room. Everyone who uses them likes the way they hit and feel. I paid about $30 a piece for them


:cool:
 
Wood-to-wood joint

Hi Guys,

I'm thinking of getting a 1-piece cue as an alternative to my 2-piece one. This is because I get more "feel" with such a cue.

Can anyone:

- Recommend any good models for <$150
- Say where you can buy a hard carrying case for 1-piece cues
- Recommend what I replace the Uni-Loc joint on my 2-piece with in order to get a feel more like a 1-piece

Thanks! :)

Blackball75:

Can't help you with the first two items (but it looks like JohnnyT got ya on the right track for those two).

However, for the third item, I can recommend a wood-to-wood joint/pin. Obviously, when I say "wood-to-wood" I'm not talking about a pin made of wood (e.g. like you'd see in carom cues, although that would be optimum if you *could* find a cue luthier/repairman capable of converting your cue to a carom cue). Rather, any good metal or G10 pin that screws directly into raw wood, like the radial pin, for example. You want the cut-end wood of the shaft to "butt up" against the cut-end wood of the butt, with no metal in-between. By having such a wood-to-wood joint, you'll have as close as you can to a 1-piece cue where the "flow" of the wood is undisturbed, and can transfer the vibrations/resonance of the hit from shaft up through the butt to your grip hand.

On the other hand, a full stainless steel joint (such as found in a Uni-Loc joint) pretty much acts like a block for this resonance/vibrations -- that heavy "block" of steel is much heavier and denser than wood, and does not transfer that resonance/vibrations -- they "die" right there at that block of steel. Some say that a stainless steel joint has a "harder/firmer hit," because one can't feel those vibrations from the hit transfer up through the cue. But methinks they actually mean the opposite -- that it has a softer or more mellow hit, that the cue is "absorbing" or blocking those vibrations from reaching your grip hand. It's like a car with a very good set of shocks; the car "glides" over the road and absorbs the bumps such that you don't feel them. If the car only had a set of springs (e.g. no shocks), you'd definitely feel the road, albeit very unpleasantly. With a cue, some people like to "feel the road," others don't. It sounds like you fit in the former group (as I do). I personally prefer a cue that "talks" to me, that gives me feedback from the hit.

Hope that helps,
-Sean
 
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Chuck Starkey makes a cue with a wood pin designed for pool and they hit very much like one piece cues. They are the nuts!! He often has cues that he has made from old one piece cues and they play just fantastic.

He's desi2960 on az and he's a great guy who will always treat you right.

I have 8 of his cues.
 
I got a one-piece made many years ago (after experiencing some serious joint problems). But it got to be a real pain to carry around and for that reason alone, I would always go 2-piece now.
 
One possible preference issue I see with off the shelf one piece full spliced sticks, such as Dufferins and Valleys come with the old style taper, while most 2 piece come with pro tapers.

As for a carrying case, check your local martial arts supply store for a 5-6" bo staff case.
 
Seems a little extreme. Are you sure it's simply because it's a one-piece and not because there's a fundamental difference in construction between the two, ie,,are both built EXACTLY the same with exactly the same woods with the only difference being that one is a one-piece???
 
one piece

I have had a great time playing with a one piece fiberglass cue similar to a cuetec. It is called an eliminator, and retails for under $50. I put a moori tip on it and use it when I go to pool tournaments and league also. Its a nice change to not have to worry about anyone stealing your case with thousands of dollars of cues in it...Anyway, these cues hit great and take abuse well, just what I was looking for. Also you get some added looks from everyone wondering who the TOOL is with the one piece cue!!!Good Luck, whatever you get, make sure you spend $$$ for a good tip.
 
buy an old dufferin and have someone convert it to wood to wood 2 peice cue for u. id go that route before carrying around a 1 peice cue. Or like someone said already u could try having a custom stick made with a wood pin like a 3 cusion cue.

Walking around with a 1 peice cue is a bit extreme.
 
buy an old dufferin and have someone convert it to wood to wood 2 peice cue for u. id go that route before carrying around a 1 peice cue. Or like someone said already u could try having a custom stick made with a wood pin like a 3 cusion cue.

Walking around with a 1 peice cue is a bit extreme.

TXsouthpaw:

Nah, it's not extreme. If walking into a pool hall with a case that large is the issue, then he can use the alternative. Just slide the butt of the cue down through the collar of his shirt (behind his head), down the back of his shirt, into the seat of his pants, and finally down the back of one pant leg, almost into his shoe. If he's a tall guy, the tip of the cue will probably disappear down the back of his shirt someplace.

The only issue is trying to walk with the cue concealed like this; he'll look like a matchstick man walking, or like a walking clothespin. :D

J/K! It was me, by the way, that suggested the wood-to-wood joint, with the optimum example being an entirely wood pin like that used in carom cues. Snooker cues, before two-piece versions became popular, used to be one-piece, and they had long cases for those. Interestingly, snooker cues use metal pins (don't know the thread size/type offhand, unfortunately), but the contact point between the butt and the shaft is definitely wood-to-wood.

Hope that helps,
-Sean
 
Jack Hynes use to carry a 1 piece all around & into poolhalls..nobody every really said much about it..but with him bringing lizards & whatever else in the places i guess the 1 piece was way on the normal end of spectum for Jack..lol:grin:
 
TXsouthpaw:

Nah, it's not extreme. If walking into a pool hall with a case that large is the issue, then he can use the alternative. Just slide the butt of the cue down through the collar of his shirt (behind his head), down the back of his shirt, into the seat of his pants, and finally down the back of one pant leg, almost into his shoe. If he's a tall guy, the tip of the cue will probably disappear down the back of his shirt someplace.

The only issue is trying to walk with the cue concealed like this; he'll look like a matchstick man walking, or like a walking clothespin. :D

J/K! It was me, by the way, that suggested the wood-to-wood joint, with the optimum example being an entirely wood pin like that used in carom cues. Snooker cues, before two-piece versions became popular, used to be one-piece, and they had long cases for those. Interestingly, snooker cues use metal pins (don't know the thread size/type offhand, unfortunately), but the contact point between the butt and the shaft is definitely wood-to-wood.

Hope that helps,
-Sean

Or he could just wear a trenchcoat and strap it to his arm like a sawed off shotgun. And at the perfect moment throw open the coat and swing out the poolstick and offer everyone the 8. ala Doc holiday in tombstone :grin: :D
 
Interestingly, snooker cues use metal pins (don't know the thread size/type offhand, unfortunately)

I have a snooker cue from England, the joint is brass and the wood used is ash. I'm pretty sure that's typical.

When you brought up snooker it made me think, they quite commonly make 3/4 length jointed cues. Do any pool cuemakers do the same? That would be a lot easier to lug around vs. a one-piece.
 
:groucho::groucho::groucho::groucho:
Jack Hynes use to carry a 1 piece all around & into poolhalls..nobody every really said much about it..but with him bringing lizards & whatever else in the places i guess the 1 piece was way on the normal end of spectum for Jack..lol:grin:
 
I'll second the recommendation of JimS and suggest you get a Starkey cue. I like Dufferin cues, too, but I'd recommend a two-piece cue that has a similar feel.

Ron Kilby makes wood-to-wood joints. There are also a number of sneaky petes that you might like: Scruggs, Frey, Josey, etc.
 
I carried a one piece for awhile

The other posters are right, although it doesn't seem like it would be a big deal carrying a one piece cue does get tiresome in a hurry.

None of the two piece cues will play just like a one piece but some definitely feel a lot better than others. Try to find what you like in a two piece is my best advice. The joint and the initial harmonics of the shaft will make a big difference.

Hu
 
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