oops! wrap groove cut too deep

[manwon]

I have heard in other posts to use Epoxy which is a great Idea if you have the time.

However you can also fill in the area with thick Super Glue and Flash it with Accelerator.

Then cutt it to desired thickness ruff it up a little and apply the Elmers and wrap it.

This will work as well as Epoxy, I have never had a problem doing it this way.

Craig

 

[BHQ]

No - I am just Jealous.

Wish I was building cues like you.

We all make mistakes.
Wish I had the equipment and time to make some myself.

You rock.

i'll make you a deal you can't refuse for everything, tonight only though , haha. tomorrow will be a better day. hope the hell it is!!!

 

[BHQ]

I'm not yellin' at you, cause I've been there & done that. I just want to understand how deep the wrap groove is. When cutting a wrap groove the only way to look at it is, HOW DEEP did the cutter or router go in. If you use your calipers & mearure from the bottom of the wrap groove to the top of the handle area, you'll have the DEPTH of the groove. The reason I asked, if you still had the butt in the lathe, is that it will be easier to recut the groove after you fix the problem. If it's been taken out of the lathe you will have to put it back in, EXACTLY centered or you'll be cutting deeper on one side than the other. In 20 years of being self taught I've made all of the mistakes that can be made. RELAX I'm trying to help...JER

i know you weren't jer. i was just messin' with ya. i need some humor to make my screwup go away. maybe another beer will help too

 

[cajunbarboxplyr]

You learn from your mistakes....... No need to worry. Im sure you will overcome this..... Your doin great so far


Now wheres my pics >





Jamie

 

[JoeyInCali]

I have heard in other posts to use Epoxy which is a great Idea if you have the time.

However you can also fill in the area with thick Super Glue and Flash it with Accelerator.

Then cutt it to desired thickness ruff it up a little and apply the Elmers and wrap it.

This will work as well as Epoxy, I have never had a problem doing it this way.

Craig

Except super-gluing 12" of groove is nasty to your lungs. S
System 3 Epoxy base finish or West with 207 hardener would do it too.

 

[manwon]

Except super-gluing 12" of groove is nasty to your lungs. S
System 3 Epoxy base finish or West with 207 hardener would do it too.[/QUOTE

I am uncertain how you apply finishes, Epoxies, or Super Glue.

But, with the proper ventilation your not breathing anything, just like sanding Cocobolo or Snakewood, it is not Rocket Science.

Craig

 

[Cue Crazy]

Super glue is bad on the lungs, but the eye burning on the long runs is no fun either. Anytime I have done a long run I get half way down It, and go blind for a few seconds until I can finally see again .

Cutting the wrap groove too deep, no reason to feel That way, It happens, I have been there also, Sometimes It's a good thing, and I remember the next time, but sure It will happen again someday, because I learn many things that way, only to learn them over again down the line. I have a hard time making Myself write some things down after I put the work in an figure them out, and that's something I really need to work on. The panto forced me to do it, so I could keep track of what stylus worked with which mill & template, and which part of the inlay It took me about four times of figuring those out and then forgetting, until I finally wised up and started writing the stuff down. Note to self, Make notes

Just an idea but, you could do the bulk of the groove with the epoxy, and just do the ends in CA, so they are not as soft, but the slow cure epoxy may cure harder as someone mentioned. My epoxy seems to get harder and slightly more brittle if I add too much hardener, so maybe that could be manipulated to your advantage in this situation.

 

[janecki84]

hmm... How about a 26 or 28 gague copper wire? Clear coat that... that'd make for a VERY interesting addition to a Brown or natural maple shaded stick

 

[pooldogue]

yessir, i did it.
had my head up my hiney daydreamin' , meant to cut .020 deep, cut it .040 which means it's .080 deep
any suggestions?
other than get my head out of ass!!!

Im no rocket scientist but if you meant to cut .020 but instead cut .040 isnt that difference of .020 not .080?? Even if you add .020 to .040 you still only get .060?? Maybe there is something i am missing?? Hope you have good luck with youre repair sir ....

 

[Tommy-D]

> I was in fact told that cutting the wrap groove too deep was 1/2 the reason Bob Meucci started clearcoating them in the first place. The other 1/2 was that in Bob's logic,he can put 3.00 worth of linen on a brand new cue and sell it for at least 135.00,back then anyway,as opposed to doing a rewrap and using that 3.00 worth of raw material and only making 35-40 bucks on it. That also adds to the cost of having a cue refinned. I saw a guy named Roger Leach from Owensboro,Ky (his shop used to be in Nick Varner's room there) do something similar to this repair on a cue at a tournament. The customer had an 70's/80's McDermott,with a factory installed leather wrap,and wanted it rewrapped because it was coming loose and because it had absorbed so much sweat for all those years it STUNK. He took the old wrap off,got all the glue and trash off the wood,and found it was .075-.080 deep,the linen he had with him was close to .040. He left and went to a Hobby Lobby,and got some really nice hemp twine,and wrapped it with that first,and heavily coated it in 2-ton Devcon,spreading it around index cards and mashing it in with 2 oak boards. The next day,he sanded it quite a bit with 220,and wrapped it with black linen. It came out perfect,and gave an additional layer of sweat absorption,as well as a great base for the glue to adhere too. Tommy D.

 

[JoeyInCali]

> I was in fact told that cutting the wrap groove too deep was 1/2 the reason Bob Meucci started clearcoating them in the first place. The other 1/2 was that in Bob's logic,he can put 3.00 worth of linen on a brand new cue and sell it for at least 135.00,back then anyway,as opposed to doing a rewrap and using that 3.00 worth of raw material and only making 35-40 bucks on it. That also adds to the cost of having a cue refinned. I saw a guy named Roger Leach from Owensboro,Ky (his shop used to be in Nick Varner's room there) do something similar to this repair on a cue at a tournament. The customer had an 70's/80's McDermott,with a factory installed leather wrap,and wanted it rewrapped because it was coming loose and because it had absorbed so much sweat for all those years it STUNK. He took the old wrap off,got all the glue and trash off the wood,and found it was .075-.080 deep,the linen he had with him was close to .040. He left and went to a Hobby Lobby,and got some really nice hemp twine,and wrapped it with that first,and heavily coated it in 2-ton Devcon,spreading it around index cards and mashing it in with 2 oak boards. The next day,he sanded it quite a bit with 220,and wrapped it with black linen. It came out perfect,and gave an additional layer of sweat absorption,as well as a great base for the glue to adhere too. Tommy D.

I think it had to do more with cutting another delicate step in makin the cue.
If you finish the forearm and the sleeve only, you will have to delicately cut the top and bottom of the wrap groove with marring the finish.
If you spray over the wrap, presto, no need to do that.

 

[TellsItLikeItIs]

Im no rocket scientist but if you meant to cut .020 but instead cut .040 isnt that difference of .020 not .080?? Even if you add .020 to .040 you still only get .060?? Maybe there is something i am missing?? Hope you have good luck with youre repair sir ....

He dialed in .020" instead of .010". With a cue rotating, if you dial in .010" the cutter/router will actually remove .020" from the overall diameter since you're removing material from all around the cue (.010" from the front side & .010" from the back side = .020"). Happens to the best of us at one time or another.

I started a long time ago taking the safe way by using the actual piece of linen or leather I'm using for the wrap to compare to the depth of the cut. Make a cut, lay the linen/leather into the wrap groove, then if needed make a little deeper cut. Leave linen just a tad high to allow for pressing. Takes a little practice but it works well for me.

 

[CrownCityCorey]

yessir, i did it.
had my head up my hiney daydreamin' , meant to cut .020 deep, cut it .040 which means it's .080 deep
any suggestions?
other than get my head out of ass!!!

Stack Leather Wrap. We can make you a roll of it at maybe .045+.

 

[BHQ]

He dialed in .020" instead of .010". With a cue rotating, if you dial in .010" the cutter/router will actually remove .020" from the overall diameter since you're removing material from all around the cue (.010" from the front side & .010" from the back side = .020"). Happens to the best of us at one time or another. I started a long time ago taking the safe way by using the actual piece of linen or leather I'm using for the wrap to compare to the depth of the cut. Make a cut, lay the linen/leather into the wrap groove, then if needed make a little deeper cut. Leave linen just a tad high to allow for pressing. Takes a little practice but it works well for me.

that's almost exactly what i did. i dialed in .040 , taking off .080 thanks for explaining it better for him. had that number 40 on the brain i guess

 

[BLACKHEARTCUES]

He dialed in .020" instead of .010". With a cue rotating, if you dial in .010" the cutter/router will actually remove .020" from the overall diameter since you're removing material from all around the cue (.010" from the front side & .010" from the back side = .020"). Happens to the best of us at one time or another.

I started a long time ago taking the safe way by using the actual piece of linen or leather I'm using for the wrap to compare to the depth of the cut. Make a cut, lay the linen/leather into the wrap groove, then if needed make a little deeper cut. Leave linen just a tad high to allow for pressing. Takes a little practice but it works well for me.

You have to dial in the cutter .020 deep, because that's what the diameter of the string is...JER

 

[blud]

The best way to fix it, install a new handle.Re-cut and finish. Now you have a complete cue and not one that's been jacked around, and not done correctly.
blud

 

[macguy]

that's almost exactly what i did. i dialed in .040 , taking off .080 thanks for explaining it better for him. had that number 40 on the brain i guess

You have to check your lathe and see how it is calibrated. I have a Sheldon that if you dial in say .010 that is what it takes off when you mic it. I have another lathe that if you dial in .010 it takes off .020 from the diameter. It's strange that is the case, I always have to be sure I remember to devide the number I want in half.

The worst mistake I ever made was putting a finished cue in backwards and began tapering it from the wrong end wrecking the cue. I had rebuilt my taper bar and changed the direction I was tapering from and forgot. The lathe is set up so I can just put stuff in the lathe and walk away and do something else and it shuts down when it is done. It was too far gone before I saw it.

 

[MVPCues]

The worst mistake I ever made was putting a finished cue in backwards and began tapering it from the wrong end wrecking the cue. I had rebuilt my taper bar and changed the direction I was tapering from and forgot. The lathe is set up so I can just put stuff in the lathe and walk away and do something else and it shuts down when it is done. It was too far gone before I saw it.

Murray T. once posted a picture that looked something like what you describe. Tapering started at the joint and moved into the points WAY too deep. It looked like the cutter got nearly to the handle before he realized it and killed the power.

That has to be a terrible feeling after a lot of work put into a cue.
Kelly

 

[TellsItLikeItIs]

You have to dial in the cutter .020 deep, because that's what the diameter of the string is...JER

Linen is not always the same thickness JER. Neither is leather. I have three 5 lb spools of black/white in my shop right now that range .021" to .027". If the linen you're working with is (say) .020", and you cut your groove .020", then you haven't allowed for pressing. After it's pressed, the wrap will be below the finish.

Maybe you don't press your linen, but I do.

 

[TellsItLikeItIs]

That has to be a terrible feeling after a lot of work put into a cue.
Kelly

It is!!! And it usually happens on the very last turn