Pioneer shafts

I think that most people don't understand the reason for spliced or laminated shafts. The construction of the blank of a cue shaft, like this or ours, does not contribute to low deflection or cue ball squirt. LD comes from a low tip end mass.

Prather makes very good quality products, and I am sure that this is no exception. However, don't use it under the impression that you will have a low deflection cue shaft because you built it with this blank.


Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com
 
the shaft looks similar to the dominator,but i think the dominator is only $40.
 
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dave sutton said:
bore out the tip end .400 4-6 inches deep put as thin a ferrule as possible and you have a predator

but how do you make them hit that bad? You know, like a loose stack of legos?
 
RBC said:
I think that most people don't understand the reason for spliced or laminated shafts. The construction of the blank of a cue shaft, like this or ours, does not contribute to low deflection or cue ball squirt. LD comes from a low tip end mass.

Prather makes very good quality products, and I am sure that this is no exception. However, don't use it under the impression that you will have a low deflection cue shaft because you built it with this blank.


Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com

Tap,. Tap.
 
dave sutton said:
bore out the tip end .400 4-6 inches deep put as thin a ferrule as possible...lol
Ferrule?
Sounds like a round veneer.
.250 by 5 inches deep you mean.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Ferrule?
Sounds like a round veneer.
.250 by 5 inches deep you mean.

thats about it. i think pred ferrules are 6/10ths long and .050 thick on the sides and the cap is about .050 also.

thats why the new shafts feel dead. there is too much missing up front. that wht the older shaft play better by most accounts. it gets to a point where too much is too much
 
dave sutton said:
bore out the tip end .400 4-6 inches deep put as thin a ferrule as possible...lol
You forgot the spray foam core... I believe.:eek: :D
 
dave sutton said:
bore out the tip end .400 4-6 inches deep put as thin a ferrule as possible...lol


LOL


I have heard that those type of shafts don't hit bad if you put a real ferrule on them.

I have a cheap flat laminate shaft a buddy loaned me and it hits great. No "sound dampening core", thin, short ferrule, no high tech 'cept the lams, and it's got da bonk.

My OB-1 arrives tomorrow, and I look forward to it, with an open mind. :thumbup:
 
RBC said:
I think that most people don't understand the reason for spliced or laminated shafts. The construction of the blank of a cue shaft, like this or ours, does not contribute to low deflection or cue ball squirt. LD comes from a low tip end mass.

Prather makes very good quality products, and I am sure that this is no exception. However, don't use it under the impression that you will have a low deflection cue shaft because you built it with this blank.


Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com

OK, I'll bite, what is the advantage of this type of construction?

I know I am probably buying for the wrong reason, but I am after a long taper, stiff hitting shaft, that's CLEAN. I can't stand blems and swirls and curls in the last 20". I expect with the multi-piece construction, I can get a cleaner shaft without having to find PERFECT shaft wood.

Like I said, I have an OB-1 arriving tomorrow....
 
dirtypool40 said:
LOL


I have heard that those type of shafts don't hit bad if you put a real ferrule on them.

I have a cheap flat laminate shaft a buddy loaned me and it hits great. No "sound dampening core", thin, short ferrule, no high tech 'cept the lams, and it's got da bonk.

My OB-1 arrives tomorrow, and I look forward to it, with an open mind. :thumbup:

everyone talks about changing the ferrule is mess ing with the low deflection by adding. i changes many 314-2's to ivory. it barely adds. 1/10 of an ounce. if i remember correctly it was like 4.20oz @ 12.65mm before and still 4.26oz @ 12.63mm.

hit 20x better with no noticeable change. besides feel that is. anyone that can feel the weight difference is the most amazing human on the planet.
 
dave sutton said:
everyone talks about changing the ferrule is mess ing with the low deflection by adding. i changes many 314-2's to ivory. it barely adds. 1/10 of an ounce. if i remember correctly it was like 4.20oz @ 12.65mm before and still 4.26oz @ 12.63mm.

hit 20x better with no noticeable change. besides feel that is. anyone that can feel the weight difference is the most amazing human on the planet.

Wow Dave! Where did you find a 314 with these measurements?! 4.2oz@12.65!!! I thought that all were feathers!!! lol
 
This thread is very disturbing to me. Disturbing in the sense that there will be people who read this and take what has been stated as fact when in reality, there are only about 3 or 4 posts with any real fact to them. The rest I suppose are guesses, educated or not.

I have a sense that people come to this particular forum with an open mind so that they may learn. Instead, they come away with their head full of BS and mis-information. Not always but more than enough.

Please, if you don't know what you're talking about, don't post.
You are only exposing yourself to the world for your lack of knowledge.

Sorry, but I just don't know how else to say it. Never claimed to be a diplomat.
 
I've used a Predator for years....and upon trying the OB1 once...I can't go back to the Predator. I still have it....but I have it in case someone...I don't know...snaps my OB1 in half and I need something to play with until I get another OB-1 in the mail. LOL

The OB1 shafts have the same characteristics as the Predator, but seem heavier, and have much, much, much more FEEL. If I had to give them one negative...they feel like they have more power than the Predator and you might overdraw..or overdue it a little bit until you adjust. I guess that really isn't a bad thing.

Just my .02.
 
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