Please look at picture and advise on what to do

girlwon1 said:
... Please note that I will have to leave the legs on when cleaning them up. I'm not taking them off the table at this point.
...
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Then find something to cover them until you can take them off and do it right. Like split a Frisbee in half and glue it over the foot, or maybe something fancier. Find four of something round at the local junk shop.

If you really have to do it in place, put a support under the frame at the leg, jack it up very slightly, spin the foot up and then put a plastic trash bag under the foot while you work on it. Before you spin the foot up note the orientation and make sure you spin it down to exactly the same place it started.
 
You have a project ahead of you. One, you don't want to have a repair guy come in and fix some cosmetic repairs. We're assuming the table is set, level, and the slate seams are set with beaswax, bondo, or what have you. If this is not the case, start over, with a table mechanic, and do it right.

If you want to do it yourself, not my recommendation, but find a guy with a strong back. Gently, very gently, lift the frame with the strong guy's back, then quickly slide a piece of cardboard under the leg bottoms. You only showed one. I'm assume all look like this? Or is it only one?

The rest us up to you. Brasso, ammonia and water, with a scrub brush, either will do the job to get the gunk off. After a lot of drying, and I think wet sanding with fine sandpaper, then I would paint with black enamel. Tape the extremities. It's up to you at this point, but leave the cardboard underneath until everything has dried.

Then, get that same strong dude with a strong back to slightly lift by the frame, not the rails, to get each piece of cardboard out from underneath, assuming you have a cleaned, and painted surface.

Then, roll some balls slowly down the length of the table, and back and forth on the sides of the table. If it rolls off, and it probably will, get the same strong dude to get down and gently lift by the frame, and turn the feet where they need to go. Clockwise will raise at that leg, counter-clockwise will lower. If that's hard to remember, right to raise, left to lower. If adjustment is needed, do a careful half turn on each side you are trying to adjust. Don't adjust one side, or length without adjusting the other, assuming they starting hitting the floor with equal pressure.

Somehow, I have a feeling there is more to this story than meets the eye.

But, as always,

All the best,
WW
 
WildWing said:
Somehow, I have a feeling there is more to this story than meets the eye.

But, as always,

All the best,
WW
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What, do you think it could be the Saturday Evening Mystery? :thumbup:

Sounds to me like she got a new-to-her used table, then later noticed something about it that bugs her.

I bought a used GC3 a few years ago (wife thought it would help me to get up and walking around with some of my health issues).

It was a commercial table from a pool hall, and I dont think ANY of the castings had any plating left on them. I wanted to get the stuff powder coated, but with the timeline I was working with, I did not have the time to wait a month or 2 whatever it was before I could get the castings redone.

So I cleaned them up, prepped them for paint and used a hammer tone epoxy paint on them. When I need to take the table down, if I decide to keep it at that point and not upgrade to a Diamond or something, Ill strip them down and get them done right.

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40570837450_f8a87a68ae_z.jpg
 
Chuck Fields said:
What, do you think it could be the Saturday Evening Mystery? :thumbup:

Sounds to me like she got a new-to-her used table, then later noticed something about it that bugs her.

I bought a used GC3 a few years ago (wife thought it would help me to get up and walking around with some of my health issues).

It was a commercial table from a pool hall, and I dont think ANY of the castings had any plating left on them. I wanted to get the stuff powder coated, but with the timeline I was working with, I did not have the time to wait a month or 2 whatever it was before I could get the castings redone.

So I cleaned them up, prepped them for paint and used a hammer tone epoxy paint on them. When I need to take the table down, if I decide to keep it at that point and not upgrade to a Diamond or something, Ill strip them down and get them done right.
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Yes, yes, and yes.

By the time the corrosion gets to this point, brasso by itself is not going to do the job. You can take it down to bear metal, but it's going to corrode quickly again. Better to do the thorough clean, sand, and paint, either enamel or your method. I believe powder coat requires removing the feet, which we assume, is not the preferred.

This is a case where you're going to have to break some eggs to get a souflet. That corrosion has gone through the clearcoat where it shows. Very gentle cleaning only methods are not going to quite do it here. And if done, will look very dull.

All the best,
WW
 
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WildWing said:
Yes, yes, and yes.

By the time the corrosion gets to this point, brasso by itself is not going to do the job. You can take it down to bear metal, but it's going to corrode quickly again. Better to do the thorough clean, sand, and paint, either enamel or your method. I believe powder coat requires removing the feet, which we assume, is not the preferred.

This is a case where you're going to have to break some eggs to get a souflet. That corrosion has gone through the clearcoat where it shows. Very gentle cleaning only methods are not going to quite do it here. And if done, will look very dull.

And, we're assuming it's a she, aren't we...

All the best,
WW
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The base metal of these castings, is a zinc alloy (pot metal) that is then plated and clear coated. The corrosion itself is on the plating, which might not mean its on the surface. The corrosion occurred due to a chip/break/imperfection in the original factory clear coat. And if the bulk of the clear is still in tact, there is nothing to be done to clean it off without stripping the clear off first.

Taking them down to bare metal gets what I showed in the before and after pics above. A raw zinc casting. :thumbup:

Oddly enough, for those interested. If you have ever like the championship belts you see in boxing, wrestling, UFC etc. Most of those are made in similar fashion. Instead of a casting, they are chemically etched zinc plates. Those plates then receive some hand sanding/polishing etc to clean them up. After that, they gold plate them, and if there is "color" on the finished plates, its done with Testors enamel model paint. ;)
 

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Chuck Fields said:
The base metal of these castings, is a zinc alloy (pot metal) that is then plated and clear coated. The corrosion itself is on the plating, which might not mean its on the surface. The corrosion occurred due to a chip/break/imperfection in the original factory clear coat. And if the bulk of the clear is still in tact, there is nothing to be done to clean it off without stripping the clear off first.

Taking them down to bare metal gets what I showed in the before and after pics above. A raw zinc casting. :thumbup:

Oddly enough, for those interested. If you have ever like the championship belts you see in boxing, wrestling, UFC etc. Most of those are made in similar fashion. Instead of a casting, they are chemically etched zinc plates. Those plates then receive some hand sanding/polishing etc to clean them up. After that, they gold plate them, and if there is "color" on the finished plates, its done with Testors enamel model paint. ;)
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Great information.
 
girlwon1 said:
I just bought myself a Tournament Edition Gold Crown 4 here in San Diego. Attached you'll see a picture of just one of the legs. They have corroded and I'd like to clean them up. The rest of the table is gorgeous! What can I do?

Please note that I will have to leave the legs on when cleaning them up. I'm not taking them off the table at this point.

Thanks in advance for your time!

Tina Pawloski Malm[/QUOTE

Hi Tina there are many good replies so far and many of them would work. Due to you wishing that the feet remain intact I would suggest the following. Obviously you must protect your carpet. Wedging playing cards underneath the legs would be a start. I would tackle the oxidization with varying grades of steel wool. From there I would see how much rejuvenation could be accomplished with a Dremel tool and brass polish. If the finished product does not meet you expectation you could then paint them. Good luck.
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My vote is to leave them alone. You will get used to it.

If they keep bugging you after a while, then get a small can of flat black paint for metal from home depot. And use a small brush to apply it. You can do it in place. And no need to mask the carpet as long as your are careful with your brush.

From a few feet away, the feet will probably look great.

If you want it done right, then get a set of replacement feet from your table mechanic, and have him swap them out.
 
Earlier I mentioned enamel or epoxy paint.... but a hobby or hardware store might have (brass/copper)metallic brush on paint. Clean the baseplates as good as possible, mask the floor and try some brush on. Nothing lost except for a few bucks and some time but it might work out,
 
Didn't read the entire thread so pardon me if I repeat what others have written. Have you posted your question in the ask the mechanic -or whatever it's called, category of the forum? I would only seek the advice of pros who have done that repair in the past.

You may also be surprised on the number of sites and videos available online offering information on restoring different metals and finishes.

Best of luck to you.
 
Try this........works wonders for things down here in this salt environment.
4c15ae408c80646816bddcafecf30be0.jpg


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its POT METAL. Polishing it is not going to match the rest of the metal even remotely. Cleaning it and painting it is the OP's only option in this situation since he does not want to remove the feet and have them properly refinished or replaced. The right has been posted. All other options are simply band aids. Do it right and be done with it.

Trent from Toledo
 
If they're all in that condition, I don't think just metal polish would do it.. my vote is for
Scotchbrite, (preferably a Scotchbrite wheel on a drill), then a little 600 sanding,
and then shoot them with self-priming Rustoleum. They actually have a bronze color which would look close to original... or the hammertone would look cool.

When you're painting stuff inside, in place, mask off everything, get a dropcloth, not just right around the legs... overspray goes everywhere! And adequate ventilation.
Good luck!
 

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First, thank you to everyone who took their time to reply. This is what happened. I went to look at the table, and had seen that the legs were like that. However, I didn't want to have the mechanic take it apart, drive it up to my garage and store until I could get the legs sorted, and then drive up again almost an hour north to put it together. With the Simonis 860 HR, the cost was already at 900 dollars without this extra work for the installer.

I was torn on what to do about them, as I wanted them fixed as the rest of the table is gorgeous. I'm finding after reading that I should just wait until we plan to move again (probably 2 years) and have them fixed when I have it taken apart to move back to the east coast. Right now, I'm not trying to pay attention to the legs, and am happy with how beautiful the table is put together.

Thanks again for the help, and have saved the responses so I can formulate my plan of action later. For right now, I'm just going to play pool. :)

Thanks!

Tina <----Excited to finally have my first table in my home after playing 26 years!
 
Just let a dog pee on them every day and they’ll match up pretty quick


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girlwon1 said:
I just bought myself a Tournament Edition Gold Crown 4 here in San Diego. Attached you'll see a picture of just one of the legs. They have corroded and I'd like to clean them up. The rest of the table is gorgeous! What can I do?

Please note that I will have to leave the legs on when cleaning them up. I'm not taking them off the table at this point.

Thanks in advance for your time!

Tina Pawloski Malm
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I got a photo of one of my Gold Crown castings. What do you think? At the time they only sold Gold Brushed, they now have Bronzed Brushed.
 

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