poll: what aiming system do u use.

center pocket said:
Its amazing, once the words "aiming " and "systems" are mentioned, everyone goes nuts over this method or that method. WHO GIVES A SH*T! Dude use what ever works for you. The only thing you need to worry about is learning how you aim. This is extremly important! Ten times more important than what aiming system you use.

Look, you say you know how to make shots but you dont know exactly what you are doing. That is what you have to discover. Spend alot of time thinking about what it is you actually do when you aim and approach a shot. Break it down into steps. Once you learn what you look at and how your eyes move, basically your aiming process, that gray area your in right now will go away.

When ever your shooting you will no longer have moments where you forget what your aiming at or how you aim. Now you will know exactly how you aim and what you look at. So now you cant forget.

Learning and discovering what you do NATURALLY is more important than learning this method or that method.

Now tinkering with other methods will help you discover how you actually aim. It happened to me. I stumbled on a method when I was trying to figure out what the hell I was doing when aiming,and when I was reading about it from Mike Page i had that epiphany where I said, "what a second, this guy just described how I aim!" It helped me put how I aim into a logical process and into words that make sense.

So spend some time practicing some cut shots from a distance and try to think logically what your whole body is doing, eyes and all!
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Good post. Great description of building a "system"......SPF=randyg
 
center pocket said:
Its amazing, once the words "aiming " and "systems" are mentioned, everyone goes nuts over this method or that method. WHO GIVES A SH*T! Dude use what ever works for you. The only thing you need to worry about is learning how you aim. This is extremly important! Ten times more important than what aiming system you use.

Look, you say you know how to make shots but you dont know exactly what you are doing. That is what you have to discover. Spend alot of time thinking about what it is you actually do when you aim and approach a shot. Break it down into steps. Once you learn what you look at and how your eyes move, basically your aiming process, that gray area your in right now will go away.

When ever your shooting you will no longer have moments where you forget what your aiming at or how you aim. Now you will know exactly how you aim and what you look at. So now you cant forget.

Learning and discovering what you do NATURALLY is more important than learning this method or that method.

Now tinkering with other methods will help you discover how you actually aim. It happened to me. I stumbled on a method when I was trying to figure out what the hell I was doing when aiming,and when I was reading about it from Mike Page i had that epiphany where I said, "what a second, this guy just described how I aim!" It helped me put how I aim into a logical process and into words that make sense.

So spend some time practicing some cut shots from a distance and try to think logically what your whole body is doing, eyes and all!
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I agree with RandyG. Great post. What I see I can describe, but you may never see what I see..
 
Thats what I am trying to say, Its WAY more important to know and be able to define what you do natrually. Then you can never forget when its crunch time.

PS if you guys like my post feel free to send some green my way.

Thanks
 
Straight In shots and up to around 15 degree angle

I posted this several months ago and find it quite helpful. Bill Cress showed me this about 9 years ago.

On straight in shots the line of aim goes thru:

The center of the cue ball
The center of the object ball
The center of the pocket

When you get down on a straight in shot your tip should:

Be pointing at the center of the cue ball
Be pointing at the center of the object ball
Be pointing at the center of the pocket

When your stroking the shot pretend the cue ball isn't there and your practice stroke is aiming at the center of the object ball. On you final stroke you should be pushing your tip thru the center of the object ball as if you were going to hit the object ball with your tip (although you will be hitting the cue ball first).

This does one thing very important:

Your stroke is being sent straight down the line of aim. Your not just pushing the cue in front of you. This technique will work up to about a 15 degree angle since the incremental difference between the ghost ball line of aim and the contact line of aim on the object is insignficant (since most pockets are twice as wide as an object ball). Any angle greater that 15 degrees becomes significant and you will undercut the ball.

I practice shooting with this technique to insure that I have a perfectly straight stroke (required for all shots). You will be amazed how much easier you can shoot off a rail also with this technique. This is the first thing I do when I start practicing. Just one rack of balls is all that is needed each time you practice to insure your stroke is straight
 
I'm saving up my money to buy a super expensive cue. Then I won't need to aim, the balls will just automatically go in the hole.

I don't consciously use a particular aiming system but of the ones I've seen described I would say my "system" is closest to a fractional aiming system.
 
I use S.A.M. for most of my shots. Sometimes edge to edge for those really thin cuts.
 
kaznj said:
Coco, I have a question about your dvd. After paying for it and if we don't understand how the system works do you then tell us the dvd only works if we take an additional lesson for $100. Then we can buy the updated dvd for only an additional $10?
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NO I would be too busy for personal lessons, as I would be off riding my NEW,
2010-harley-davidson-7_460x0w.jpg
with all the GREEN I MADE.:wink:
 
TWOFORPOOL said:
This technique will work up to about a 15 degree angle since the incremental difference between the ghost ball line of aim and the contact line of aim on the object is insignficant (since most pockets are twice as wide as an object ball)
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To understand the margin of error correctly, it's important to know that when a pocket opening is 2 ball widths wide, the actual size of the target (minus rail distortion and approach angle effects) is really only 1 ball width wide.

To see why, think of two imaginary balls frozen together sitting across the pocket opening. You could send an OB towards either one dead in the face or anywhere in between their centers to pocket the OB. The distance between their imaginary centers is 1 ball width, so that's the real target size that determines allowable error. Saying the pocket is twice as wide as an OB can be misleading and make it sound like the target size is 2 ball diameters instead of 1. Also, since you usually aim at the target center, it's really plus or minus 1/2-ball width error to either side.

For reference, the error caused by aiming at the contact point vs the ghost ball center for a 15 degree cut is roughly 1/2-diamond (almost 3 ball widths on a 9') across the width of the table (4 diamonds) when the CB is far from the OB and gets worse the closer the CB is to the OB.

That seems pretty significant to me unless the OB is a diamond or less from the pocket.

Robert
 
Robert Raiford said:
To understand the margin of error correctly, it's important to know that when a pocket opening is 2 ball widths wide, the actual size of the target (minus rail distortion and approach angle effects) is really only 1 ball width wide.

To see why, think of two imaginary balls frozen together sitting across the pocket opening. You could send an OB towards either one dead in the face or anywhere in between their centers to pocket the OB. The distance between their imaginary centers is 1 ball width, so that's the real target size that determines allowable error. Saying the pocket is twice as wide as an OB can be misleading and make it sound like the target size is 2 ball diameters instead of 1. Also, since you usually aim at the target center, it's really plus or minus 1/2-ball width error to either side.

For reference, the error caused by aiming at the contact point vs the ghost ball center for a 15 degree cut is roughly 1/2-diamond (almost 3 ball widths on a 9') across the width of the table (4 diamonds) when the CB is far from the OB and gets worse the closer the CB is to the OB.

That seems pretty significant to me unless the OB is a diamond or less from the pocket.

Robert
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15 Degrees is 15 Degrees whether its 2" away or 2 miles away you will be still aiming at the same spot. The distance from the Ghost Ball center of aim vs the contact point on the object ball is exactly 1/2 of a balls width or 1 1/4". If you pivot from the ghost ball line of aim to the contact point of aim of 15 degrees you might misaim the contact point by no more than a 1/16 of an inch. You calculations state on a 9' table you would have a 3 ball width error thereby missing the object ball by two balls!

All I can say it TRY IT. You will be surprised.
 
sr 9ball said:
what aiming system do u use?...
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I have one of those toilet bowls with the image of a fly etched into the porcelain so I have something definite to aim at and rarely miss the bowl anymore. My girlfriend thinks its great.
 
CocoboloCowboy said:
Uncle Willie's Secret Aiming System tought me in the 1960's by my buddie Uncle Willie. I may soon have a DVD Available, as the promise I made to Uncle Willie is null and void when he died. ONLY 49.95 if you pre order now & pay, delivery sometime in the future.:slap:
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oh oh two copies please, ill trade you my pet alligator alphonse along with the $$$ if you autograph them for me.

and don't worry alphonse don't bite neither, but he still got that PERFECT AIM to gum you pretty hard, so watch yourself cowboy.

GG
 
thanks for the replies.

i agree with center pocket. ive read quite a few times that your suppose track your progress and log it down on paper. along with what your doing right. i always thought that was crazy. finally last year i was shooting lights out for a few weeks and i decided to right down what i was doing. now im alot more consistent. back years ago id get in a slump and try to figure out what i was doing right. but id never get all the piece together.

right now im just trying to piece together some other systems/methods that r similar to the way i aim.
 
TWOFORPOOL said:
15 Degrees is 15 Degrees whether its 2" away or 2 miles away you will be still aiming at the same spot. The distance from the Ghost Ball center of aim vs the contact point on the object ball is exactly 1/2 of a balls width or 1 1/4". If you pivot from the ghost ball line of aim to the contact point of aim of 15 degrees you might misaim the contact point by no more than a 1/16 of an inch. You calculations state on a 9' table you would have a 3 ball width error thereby missing the object ball by two balls!

All I can say it TRY IT. You will be surprised.
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When you aim the center of the CB at the OB contact point you get about half the cut angle. Here's a table of some cuts up to 15 degrees showing how far off the OB's path is in inches per foot:

TEMP.jpg

As you can see, even a very small cut of 3.6 degrees (normal aim = 1/16 radius offcenter) turns into an error of almost 1/2 inch per foot when you aim the CB center at the OB contact point. That means with 1 ball width margin for error (1 1/8 inches either way) you'll miss all shots that are longer than about 2 feet.

A cut of 14.5 degrees misses by 1.5 inches per foot, so you'll miss shots that are even less than 1 foot.

You must be adjusting unconsciously.

pj
chgo
 
I tried to put this thread on the right path by discussing what actually matters when aiming. But once again this thread went to "My method is bigger and better than your method, and mine will beat your method up!"

Jesus Christ guys. There are tons of ways to aim and there are tons of ways to stroke, everybody is diffrent. Its more important to use what works for you! If you guys dont give it up you will be arguing till your dead!
 
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Robert Raiford said:
To understand the margin of error correctly, it's important to know that when a pocket opening is 2 ball widths wide, the actual size of the target (minus rail distortion and approach angle effects) is really only 1 ball width wide.

To see why, think of two imaginary balls frozen together sitting across the pocket opening. You could send an OB towards either one dead in the face or anywhere in between their centers to pocket the OB. The distance between their imaginary centers is 1 ball width, so that's the real target size that determines allowable error. Saying the pocket is twice as wide as an OB can be misleading and make it sound like the target size is 2 ball diameters instead of 1. Also, since you usually aim at the target center, it's really plus or minus 1/2-ball width error to either side.


Robert
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Thanks for posting this. My mantra has always been hit center pocket. Well because the limitations on shooting into the pocket have never come into play for me, I have never thought about it. But its always good to know the limitations on what you can and cannot do.

You lost me on the rest of your posts, which i didnt include in your quote, as so many on here do.
 
center pocket said:
I tried to put this thread on the right path by discussing what actually matters when aiming. But once again this thread went to "My method is bigger and better that your method, and mine will beat your method up!"

Jesus Christ guys. There are tons of ways to aim and there are tons of ways to stroke, everybody is diffrent. Its more important to use what works for you! If you guys dont give it up you will be arguing till your dead!
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i think pool is latin for pissing contest lol. i thought you knew.
 
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