realkingcobra is the man!!!

Thanks for that! Here's an interesting quote:

"When assembling, reinstall the rail bolts and torque to 20-25lb-ft. See picture below for bolt locations."

That's a lot more torque than I've seen recommended here. I'm inclined to go with Glenn's recommendation!

Anyone can go ahead and use those specs if they want, but then DON'T call me or message me asking me why the plywood is crushing under the washers, or why the dome washers are being crushed down.
 
GC IV with the dome washers .. noticed long rails aren't aligned properly, won't roll true past the side pocket on one side. Can I loosen the rail bolts and use a long level across side pocket to align cushions on either side and then just tighten them back up or am I out of my league. Also torque specs on bolts .. Thanks!!

No, that's the correct way to align the rails after they were bolted down wrong, but you'd better loosen the side pocket castings as well, because they're NOT going to allow you line up the side rails until you do so.
 
GC IV with the dome washers .. noticed long rails aren't aligned properly, won't roll true past the side pocket on one side. Can I loosen the rail bolts and use a long level across side pocket to align cushions on either side and then just tighten them back up or am I out of my league. Also torque specs on bolts .. Thanks!!
I will, of course, defer to the professionals on this sub-forum, but according to the GC IV installation manual, this alignment is stablished with the side pocket casting bolts, and is done when assembling the entire rail system, before it is flipped over and bolted to the slate. See page 7 of the manual. Maybe it can be corrected by loosening the rail bolts and removing the aprons to get at the side pocket casting bolts, but I don't know.
 
I will, of course, defer to the professionals on this sub-forum, but according to the GC IV installation manual, this alignment is stablished with the side pocket casting bolts, and is done when assembling the entire rail system, before it is flipped over and bolted to the slate. See page 7 of the manual. Maybe it can be corrected by loosening the rail bolts and removing the aprons to get at the side pocket casting bolts, but I don't know.
Thank you for admitting that you DON'T know, because you don't. I don't care about the Brunswick assemble manual either, it's wrong as well, if you mount the rails loose, then mount the pocket casting next, then as you make sure they line up straight, THEN you bolt them down tight. When you assemble the rails, skirts upside down, you can't see shit to line them up straight. In over 38 years of working on GC's I've NEVER assembled ONE set of rails upside down first!!
 
Thank you for admitting that you DON'T know, because you don't. I don't care about the Brunswick assemble manual either, it's wrong as well, if you mount the rails loose, then mount the pocket casting next, then as you make sure they line up straight, THEN you bolt them down tight. When you assemble the rails, skirts upside down, you can't see shit to line them up straight. In over 38 years of working on GC's I've NEVER assembled ONE set of rails upside down first!!

Yes, it's weird, since the Gold Crown I manual shows it your way. I can't imagine why they changed it.

It could be that it might be really difficult to get those 5/16" joint connectors into the holes, and lined up properly to get the bolts into them, with the rails on the table right-side-up (also on page 7 of the manual).
 
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Yes, it's weird, since the Gold Crown I manual shows it your way. I can't imagine why they changed it.

Because they changed the skirts to bolt on instead of the hanger style on the 1's with the plastic extensions. There was no way of installing the rails and blinds at the same time, wouldn't fit over the slate. So then some dumbshit that has never worked on pool tables before wrote in the GC3 manual that you can NOW assemble the rails upside down FIRST, then turn them back over and install them. That's why so many GC4's & 5's have bent pocket castings....because then the dumbass installers try to beat the castings with a hammer and block of wood to try lining them up after the fact!!!
 
Yes, it's weird, since the Gold Crown I manual shows it your way. I can't imagine why they changed it.

It could be that it might be really difficult to get those 5/16" joint connectors into the holes, and lined up properly to get the bolts into them, with the rails on the table right-side-up (also on page 7 of the manual).

Please don't guess at pool table mechanic work, all you'll do is confuse yourself.
 
Yes, it's weird, since the Gold Crown I manual shows it your way. I can't imagine why they changed it.

It could be that it might be really difficult to get those 5/16" joint connectors into the holes, and lined up properly to get the bolts into them, with the rails on the table right-side-up (also on page 7 of the manual).

See, what you're doing here is implying that you're asking a question....but then, you go ahead and answer your implied question.....and most of the time, YOUR answer is wrong.
 
Please don't guess at pool table mechanic work, all you'll do is confuse yourself.

Yea, you're right, it is an exceedingly complex system, and I wouldn't want to sprain my feeble brain on it.

What is it about you guys that makes you so condescending, brash? Can't you just engage in a civil discussion? The smartest guys I've ever known were also kind and gracious, humble, and had time to listen and discuss with folks who knew less on a topic than they.
 
Yea, you're right, it is an exceedingly complex system, and I wouldn't want to sprain my feeble brain on it.

What is it about you guys that makes you so condescending, brash? Can't you just engage in a civil discussion? The smartest guys I've ever known were also kind and gracious, humble, and had time to listen and discuss with folks who knew less on a topic than they.

It's not "you guys"....its you. You have no pool table at home, no room for one, but have made clear you want to build a miniature pool table, size appropriate, but don't know how, or where to get the things you need to do so. Then you ask everyone how to do what you want done, and want advice in doing so. Then you ask questions like, why can't K66 or K55 cushions be used to built an 18"×36" pool table....and does anyone make size appropriate balls for a table like you want to build.

Buddy, I know what I know because of the 38 years of experience I have in working on pool tables, and I know what I know as facts. You constantly want to second guess everything, then throw in your own assumptions for answers, then see if anyone agrees with you, and if not...WHY not? You're not even working on pool tables as a hobby, you haven't built your toy table yet...why not?

I have better things to do with my time, like helping those that DO work on pool tables....and helping those that do OWN pool tables at home, because I don't see anyone else offering free advice....do you?

How many people have already commented in this thread that their rail bolts were in fact...loose? How many have said they noticed a difference in how their table played afterwards, once they tightened the rail bolts up?

I know you like debating me because of who I am, but buddy, it's getting old.
 
Thanks for that! Here's an interesting quote:

"When assembling, reinstall the rail bolts and torque to 20-25lb-ft. See picture below for bolt locations."

That's a lot more torque than I've seen recommended here. I'm inclined to go with Glenn's recommendation!

Whatever you do, listen to RKC here. Setting the bolts at 15 ft lbs is enough, any more and you will hear the cracking of the plywood. I couldn't imagine cranking out another 5-10 ft lbs per bolt--you would sink those right into the wood and permanently damage the rail.
 
It's not "you guys"....its you. You have no pool table at home, no room for one, but have made clear you want to build a miniature pool table, size appropriate, but don't know how, or where to get the things you need to do so. Then you ask everyone how to do what you want done, and want advice in doing so. Then you ask questions like, why can't K66 or K55 cushions be used to built an 18"×36" pool table....and does anyone make size appropriate balls for a table like you want to build.

Buddy, I know what I know because of the 38 years of experience I have in working on pool tables, and I know what I know as facts. You constantly want to second guess everything, then throw in your own assumptions for answers, then see if anyone agrees with you, and if not...WHY not? You're not even working on pool tables as a hobby, you haven't built your toy table yet...why not?

I have better things to do with my time, like helping those that DO work on pool tables....and helping those that do OWN pool tables at home, because I don't see anyone else offering free advice....do you?

How many people have already commented in this thread that their rail bolts were in fact...loose? How many have said they noticed a difference in how their table played afterwards, once they tightened the rail bolts up?

I know you like debating me because of who I am, but buddy, it's getting old.

That's exactly what I'm talking about. FWIW, a week from today I'm putting a GC I in my 16x25' family room, which has a bar and a fireplace; there are 4 fireplaces in this 4,400 sq. ft. Georgian colonial. I could put a couple of pool tables in this house if I wanted to.

I thought the miniature pool table was a fun idea, interesting exercise. But not because it was the only alternative.

Fine, you don't want a discussion, I get it.
 
That's exactly what I'm talking about. FWIW, a week from today I'm putting a GC I in my 16x25' family room, which has a bar and a fireplace; there are 4 fireplaces in this 4,400 sq. ft. Georgian colonial. I could put a couple of pool tables in this house if I wanted to.

I thought the miniature pool table was a fun idea, interesting exercise. But not because it was the only alternative.

Fine, you don't want a discussion, I get it.

I'm happy for you to put a GC1 in your house, finally, I know you bought it at the right price too, cheap.as you could find. Do me a favor will you, either hire someone to set it up, or set it up by yourself, don't matter to me either way. But if you come back on the mechanics forum asking.every question you can ask, looking for all the free advice you can get just so you don't have to pay someone, I'm going to be charging for all my advice....up front, as I'm sure you won't get any answers to your questions as to how you do this or that on your pool table from anyone else, not for free anyway, maybe not even for money. And just so you know, I've never charged anyone else for my advice, it's always been given for free....but you're that one exception. Just letting you know up front is all I'm saying.
 
I'm happy for you to put a GC1 in your house, finally, I know you bought it at the right price too, cheap.as you could find. Do me a favor will you, either hire someone to set it up, or set it up by yourself, don't matter to me either way. But if you come back on the mechanics forum asking.every question you can ask, looking for all the free advice you can get just so you don't have to pay someone, I'm going to be charging for all my advice....up front, as I'm sure you won't get any answers to your questions as to how you do this or that on your pool table from anyone else, not for free anyway, maybe not even for money. And just so you know, I've never charged anyone else for my advice, it's always been given for free....but you're that one exception. Just letting you know up front is all I'm saying.


SOMEONE JUST GOT BIT BY THE COBRA!
AHAHHAHAHAHA.

You happen to be right too Glen. This guy is funny.

Trent from Toledo
 
Do the rail bolts need to be torqued in any particular sequence or pattern and do they need to be torqued in steps (1/3 load, then 2/3 load and final full torque load)?

Thanks again.
 
I have a Brunswick Gibson unaltered, would 15lbs be good for the type of rails on it? This thread is fascinating , thx op and rkc
 
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