Repair opinions/suggestions - PLEASE!!!

Greatblzofire

Greatblzofire

Neil Olsen Custom Cues
Silver Member
OK, this is going to break alot of cue addicts hearts. I have a customer that accidentally (?) snapped the forearm on his high dollar Joss West.

I have a general idea of a way to alter/repair/coble the cue back together. But I wanted to throw it out to the more experienced for suggestions. This will be the most complicated repair attempt I have made to date. I do not want to screw it up guessing at a repair method.

Also, if one of you boys think you can make it perfect again and want to qoute this guy a price, then let me know. I am not above relinquishing this one to someone more qualified. I just want this guy to be able to get this guy his cue back in the best usable condition if that is even achievable.

Mr. Stroud, if you are out there and still want to repair this one, I would gladly turn it over to you to do the work. I know that you are trying to leave this cue building world behind. I will call you about it later today.

Here is a pic of what we are dealing with. I cannot get the two pieces to fit back together perfectly, but they may once the joint pin is removed. I am all ears for suggestions.

029.jpg
 
The cue can be repaired but will never be perfect. I can get it back together, but would need to have it in my hands to see how it will fit.

I don't think this is the cue you want to use as a guinea pig. Once you smear glue on it, you are committed to fixing it and there is no backing out or second guessing.
 
I doubt that it's the pin that's not allowing a perfect fit.
You likely have a splinter from the break laying somewhere that it's not supposed to.

It can be fixed but as Ryan suggests, it may not be perfect.
Hiding the break-line will be a challenge.
Also, the angle of the break and it's proximity to the pin could have a detrimental effect
on alignment.

On a personal note, I really hate to see something like this.
Your client obviously has the money for a JW but is lacking the temperament.
I can only imagine what will go through Mr. Stroud's head, if and when he sees this.
Good Luck, KJ
 
KJ Cues said:
I doubt that it's the pin that's not allowing a perfect fit.
You likely have a splinter from the break laying somewhere that it's not supposed to.

It can be fixed but as Ryan suggests, it may not be perfect.
Hiding the break-line will be a challenge.
Also, the angle of the break and it's proximity to the pin could have a detrimental effect
on alignment.

On a personal note, I really hate to see something like this.
Your client obviously has the money for a JW but is lacking the temperament.
I can only imagine what will go through Mr. Stroud's head, if and when he sees this.
Good Luck, KJ
Click to expand...


KJ you were correct it was a splinter. The two pieces go back together now.

BTW the customer claims that he had the cue in his case, put together when he accidentally tipped the case over. The cue caught on something and the weight of the case plus the force of the fall broke the cue. I believe him. He is not a hothead. The thing I am having a hard time with is where it broke. There must have been a pre-existing weakness in that spot for an accident like that to cause a break just under the joint pin. Maybe this was inevitable?

Before we all feel too sorry for this gentleman though, his backup cue is a Dennis Searing. He really liked the JW though and was trying to avoid wear and tear on the coveted Searing. It is a tough break any way you slice it though.
 
I bet Ryan can get it as close to perfect as humanly possible.

Did he say exactly how it happened? I only ask because last year at league, my buddy broke and his McDermott snapped exactly like that, right in front of my eyes. He breaks pretty hard but didn't do anything he shouldn't have. I'm certainly not trying to compare a McDermott to this custom cue, just saying I've seen a similar failure with no wrong doing on the part of the operator.
 
Scott at proficient billiards is another option as I know he has done repairs to this nature before. He has before and after photos in his cue gallery and I have used him for refinish work. I'm not knocking Ryan or anyone else here but Scott is constantly working on extremely high end cues. Something has to be said about a guy who gets trusted with Bushkas, Szams, Rambos, Ginas, etc. As stated.....just another option.
 
Disregard my asking how it happened, we must have been typing at the same time.

It is somewhat of a weak spot. there is usually a small void there beneath the pin for glue and tapping. Throw in a strategically placed knot in the wood and who knows what could happen. I doubt there would have been a problem but the cue fell over sideways exposing the weakness. I've seen a couple cues snap from falling over and hitting something on the way down.
 
If I were you I would send the cue to Ryan ( Ratcues), I have seen him work his magic on similar cues many times and the results have been outstanding.

JIMO
 
Even if it was my very own personal cue...I'd send it to Ryan...and Ryan only. This from a cuemaker who has fixed similar breaks almost perfectly before...and would prefer to send it to Ryan.;)
 
deadnutz said:
Something has to be said about a guy who gets trusted with Bushkas, Szams, Rambos, Ginas, etc. As stated.....just another option.
Click to expand...

I get trusted with those cues as well. ;)

At this point, stop handling the pieces. Any dust, oil, or other contaminations will make hiding that joint more difficult.
 
i have seen this break several times but only in BE cues, there was a thread a while back on to core or not to core in BE. Good choice sending to Ryan, I remember he fixed a szam just like it
 
This failure is what I worry about in birdseye .
I've fixed a few cues with this failure, usually by installing a .550" or so by about 5" insert, a longer version of what I put in shafts, after my initial glue up. No failures so far.
I wonder whether a maple core or insert as I described above is not the best compromise for radical birdseye.
R
 
This is a fairly common break with birdseye maple. Many years ago I snapped a brand new Scruggs...the break looked just like this one. I was just breaking with the cue...and did NOT bend it up Sigel style. The cue was less than a week old. After speaking with Tim, he wasn't shocked to hear of it. Sometimes the highly figured maple just has a hidden weak spot that can't be detected until its too late. Tim overnighted me a similar cue as a replacement with no further questions. Being treated so well I bought several more cues from him over the years. I wish I could buy some more of those $175 sneakies now.:D Also watched a Moochie snap in the same spot. A friend leaned his cue against a table and it slid...when it softly hit the carpeted floor...pop....snapped right under the joint pin. Of course Meucci doesn't help the situation with a .815 o.d. joint. Its sad indeed when a well cared for cue breaks from no abuse...thats just a small risk with the higher figured wood. I don't feel any of the cues would of broken had the forearm been constructed of straight grain maple. There is a reason many of the oldtimers prefered straight maple. I feel the hit is a bit better with straight grain maple as well...its just no treat for the eyes. Sorry for the ramble...back to your regularly schelduled programming.:smile:
 
common problem with birds eye snapping behind the joint.sad to see there was no prevention built in.

bill
 
LGSM3 said:
i have seen this break several times but only in BE cues, there was a thread a while back on to core or not to core in BE. Good choice sending to Ryan, I remember he fixed a szam just like it
Click to expand...

I saw a thread recently where Mr Stroud said he cored all his cues. This cue does not seem to be cored. An exception?
 
I have a customers McDermott broken off in a very similar way. This is a hot-head which has become a good customers of shafts-he constantly slam the ferrule section down in the table-splitting shafts.
However this time the cue whent-and it was a BEM forarm.
My solution-chop it off just above the break section-core a new tennon and install a new joint area/rings. Would try to blend the new BEM with stain, but on a nice cue like this-I agree-Ryan is the man.
Ryan - post a pic when your done ;-)
K
 
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