Results of the New Viking Cue Clearcoat using Meguiar's polish !!!

Here is a pic of 3m at work. I just like the stuff! LOL
Thanx,
Jim Lee
Cocobola-CanarySmall.jpg
 
I want to see your buffing wheel or what ever you use. I just polish when its turning in the lathe. just wanted to see what some of you were using.
 
I've tried a "few" products in my show car polishing and have found nothing better than products made by Pool Boys World. The owner, Steve, is a former owner of a body shop. Go to www.poorboysworld.com
 
winners07 said:
I want to see your buffing wheel or what ever you use. I just polish when its turning in the lathe. just wanted to see what some of you were using.
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I spin the cue on the lathe and use a soft white paper towel to apply and buff the polish with !

It's practically effortless....


- Eddie Wheat
 
but I prefer Macaser Ebony that is highly figured.
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it plays better too.


i have used 3M finesse it,but i feel like a true polish needs to go on after finesse it.i think fineese it cuts.

i akls haven't had luck just spinning them on a lathe getting the finish deep and glossy with zero scratches.i have to spin them first and then go to the final step for the deep,rich,wet shine.
 
Not that I am a cuemaker or anything, but what do you guys think of this stuff? I've used it for years on a variety of things from autos to golf clubs to household stuff, and you'd be amazed at the results. Has anyone tried it on cues? Just wondering aloud. :)

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Irish634 said:
Not that I am a cuemaker or anything, but what do you guys think of this stuff? I've used it for years on a variety of things from autos to golf clubs to household stuff, and you'd be amazed at the results. Has anyone tried it on cues? Just wondering aloud. :)

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I have used a similar product to buff out scuffs on the finish of cues. It works very well, however, I still use some of the finer liquid polishes afterwards, to bring back the shine.

Have a good day Craig
 
still use some of the finer liquid polishes afterwards, to bring back the shine
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yes,my final polish has literally no grit at all.it feels just like hand lotion,but it revitalizes the paint extremely well,and makes it very soft and smooth to the touch.also of course it knocks out the final tiny scratches left from 3000 grit paper and the compound.
 
This may help a little...

winners07 said:
I want to see your buffing wheel or what ever you use. I just polish when its turning in the lathe. just wanted to see what some of you were using.
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ScratchX

If any of you guys are looking for it, I noticed an email ad from Harbor Freight on the Memorial day sale. They have a coupon for $2 off the reg price of 7.99 for a tube of Scratch-X. Just passing it along.
 
what do you use to seal wood with before applying clear ?
im trying to redo a coco butt and i keep getting a spot that bubbles up on me

thanks , carl shealy
 
olsonsview said:
If any of you guys are looking for it, I noticed an email ad from Harbor Freight on the Memorial day sale. They have a coupon for $2 off the reg price of 7.99 for a tube of Scratch-X. Just passing it along.
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I was just there today, and saw the scratch X, and the Meguiars polish. I just wish I had the $2 coupon,:) Even at the $7 price, I felt it was worth a try, so I picked up one of each.
Dave
 
nympfisher said:
what do you use to seal wood with before applying clear ?
im trying to redo a coco butt and i keep getting a spot that bubbles up on me

thanks , carl shealy
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Carl,
It sounds like you have a particularly oily piece of coco. Once you have the cue stripped down to bare wood, wipe it down with xylene or acetone to remove the surface oils and immediately seal it with cyanoacrylate (super-glue). This may be your best barrier btwn. the wood and your clear-coat.
 
KJ Cues said:
Carl,
It sounds like you have a particularly oily piece of coco. Once you have the cue stripped down to bare wood, wipe it down with xylene or acetone to remove the surface oils and immediately seal it with cyanoacrylate (super-glue). This may be your best barrier btwn. the wood and your clear-coat.
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Yeah, It's proabably taboo to mention that around here, but I have done the same thing. Sometimes the whole piece won't be that oily, but one spot will drive you nuts. Not coco, another rosewood, but I have a cue in the lathe now that was doing that, and the piece didn't seem that oily, but not matter how much I cleaned and epoxy sealed there was one small place giving Me trouble. I resealed that area many times, and the epoxy seemed to stick, until I sanded, then I would get some fine pitting. The Ca stuck well, and seems to have solved the problem. I had some coco in a butt sleeve one time, and It wouldn't even let the finish cure due to the oils. I like the feel of alot of the rosewoods or oily woods in a cue, but It's a pain finishing some of them.

Greg
 
manwon said:
I use these in order from left to right!!!!!

Some of these can only be purchased at Automotive Paint stores

View attachment 68034

Hope this helps!!
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i wish they had grit listed on all these products
i use finesse it
i wonder if the meguirs fine cut would be more or less grit than finesse ???? to use in between my med cut & finesse
 
WheatCues said:
VERY IMPRESSIVE !!!!

That is some serious depth...

Great Job !!!!



- Eddie Wheat
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Thank you Eddie, like I said above the finish of cue is the first thing people see, and first impressions are long lasting. The money spent for all the polishing materials I posted earlier is small compared with the effects of the job.

Oh and by the way, I do not use a buffing wheel just a paper towel and a soft cloth, and I know no other way, I am just a self taught Hack.;) I learned to finish a cue just like I learned to make cues by trial and error.!!!!!!;)
 
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