Rings at A-joint

M

masonh

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
what do you guys think is the max thickness for a ring pack at the A-joint.i was thinking maybe .300" or so,but was curious to hear other ideas.
 
If it flows with the ring pack, up to .500 I think.
Kinda like an EP.
I think thick rings there affect the hit somehow though.
 
Thickness can be whatever you want, Thus the term custom, The real question or thought should be, Is the tenon for the splice, sufficient enough to support the rings.
 
when i build a cue i use a .500 pc of phenolic in the a joint anyway. i cut my tenon .750 dia and 1.25'' long. glue the phenolic ring on then let it sit overnight. take a final pass truing up rings a face everything and put the cue together.

rings are part of the handle

so tech i have rings on every cue but cover it with a wrap

sorry for the long post. not understanding mikes post.
 
dave sutton said:
when i build a cue i use a .500 pc of phenolic in the a joint anyway. i cut my tenon .750 dia and 1.25'' long. glue the phenolic ring on then let it sit overnight. take a final pass truing up rings a face everything and put the cue together.

rings are part of the handle

so tech i have rings on every cue but cover it with a wrap

sorry for the long post. not understanding mikes post.
Click to expand...

I guess it would depend on how you do your rings versus what direction your cue is joined, Understand now.
 
yes. i go into the forearm. as i said to mason in a pm. when you build pointed cues rings on the forearm make your points small. i dont want to loose any of my point. i want them touching. i like to build my cues the same everytime. i dont adjust my tenon only material used
 
dave sutton said:
yes. i go into the forearm. as i said to mason in a pm. when you build pointed cues rings on the forearm make your points small. i dont want to loose any of my point. i want them touching. i like to build my cues the same everytime. i dont adjust my tenon only material used
Click to expand...


Makes sence, but if you put your rings on the forearm instead of the handle, you would want your tenon to go well past those rings for strength, correct.
 
Michael Webb said:
Makes sence, but if you put your rings on the forearm instead of the handle, you would want your tenon to go well past those rings for strength, correct.
Click to expand...

now i get it... ive always done them on the handle.


if you have to do so much more the put them on the forearm at all

i hear some say the do 1in tenons into the forearm. where does the point getwhere too for will weaken the cue 750 deep where the cue is only .950

dont think i like that
 
dave sutton said:
now i get it... ive always done them on the handle.


if you have to do so much more the put them on the forearm at all

i hear some say the do 1in tenons into the forearm. where does the point getwhere too for will weaken the cue 750 deep where the cue is only .950

dont think i like that
Click to expand...

would depend on what size tenon is being used and what glue is also very important, can of worms on the glue,
 
at first i did .625 by .625 but then changed to .750 by.750. better feel IMO

i was scared of too big lol

if theres a beter way i always wana know

thanks for the talks
 
dave sutton said:
at first i did .625 by .625 but then changed to .750 by.750. better feel IMO

i was scared of too big lol

if theres a beter way i always wana know

thanks for the talks
Click to expand...

My pleasure
Lots of different ways to join a cue
Multiple size tenons
Ex.
Step like a step drill
3/4 and 5/8
5/8 and 1/2 usually for them long suckers or just 5/8"
Tapered.
Multiple slotted like tongue and grooved.

I have seen some where only a 1/4" tenon was used, I figured Jeesh, could they spare it and of course we all have seen no tenon at all but I don't want to play in that yard.
 
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Michael Webb said:
Thickness can be whatever you want, Thus the term custom, The real question or thought should be, Is the tenon for the splice, sufficient enough to support the rings.
Click to expand...

I also agree with Michael, as long as they are structurally supported and they flow with the design it is all good. Custom is custom, I think to many people have a narrow thought process and are afraid to go beyond the excepted lines. However, to a man all the well respected and famous cue makers of the past pushed those boundaries with designs that were unique to them. The best part about designs is that there is no end to what can be achieved, and by allowing yourself to think in an abstract manner outside the current lines of thought is how you find your own niche.

Take care Mason.
 
Rings can be any thickness. The toughest part of rings in the "A" joint is figuring out how to make the rings totally asthetic, not structural. It was an issue I had in early years, and when I asked another local builder, his answer was another question. "Why are your rings part of your joinery?". That's all he'd tell me. After lots of thought, I found a way to reduce the load dependency on the rings to nearly non-existent. It's just something you gotta figure out.
 
manwon said:
I also agree with Michael, as long as they are structurally supported and they flow with the design it is all good. Custom is custom, I think to many people have a narrow thought process and are afraid to go beyond the excepted lines. However, to a man all the well respected and famous cue makers of the past pushed those boundaries with designs that were unique to them. The best part about designs is that there is no end to what can be achieved, and by allowing yourself to think in an abstract manner outside the current lines of thought is how you find your own niche.
Click to expand...

Well said Craig. :thumbup2:
 
I'm just finishing 2 cues that have a 1" long wooden ring at the front & rear of the handle. The tenon extends 1" past that ring & the 3/8-10 screw that helps join the handle & foearm extends 3/4" beyond that...JER
 
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