As skeptical as I am about the pivot aiming systems, I really appreciate that Ron and cleary prepared this presentation. It takes guts to put it out there like that. I was fortunate that I got to learn the system from Ron first-hand. He's very willing to share his system with anyone who wants to learn it. And he's very patient as well. A really good guy.
Ron V aiming system video and diagrams
- Thread starter cleary
- Start date
What exactly did they put out there?
pj
chgo
Patrick Johnson said:
Lol...Uh Oh...time to take cover. Seriously though, Ron is willing to share everything he knows openly for free, and he's patient about teaching those who want to learn. I see this as a good thing. I expect a lot of argument in this thread. But I respect Ron for stepping up and sharing his method.
I'll say that I feel similar about Ron's system as I do about the other pivot systems. They're good because they get you pretty close, so when the feel begins, there's less to adjust.
Actualy his system of swivvel works best for that harder cuts. You may have to aim at 10% of cue to 10 % of OB. Then swivel to Center of cue. You can cut balls in that are a few inches off of the rail, all the way down to the corner pocket. Hard to explain.SoundWaves said:
okay so I fooled around with this tonight at the pool room. On several layouts the 90/90 (odd name) worked very well. Then I got to many shots where it wasnt close. Need something different there.
I also tried the Center Center but really could not get comfortable with the pivot. Its much easier pivoting to center ball.
Not sure if I am doing it right. In post 13 I asked a few questions. Hopefully I can get some feedback on those.
What i did notice is that it felt very weird pivoting and then basically no knowing where to look at the OB.
I tried to make adjustements for positioning and english and that messed me up. I didnt spend alot of time with it as I had a match but I did know how easy it would be to fine tune this system to be able to cheat pockets and slide into partially blocked holes.
Thanks for the tips
I also tried the Center Center but really could not get comfortable with the pivot. Its much easier pivoting to center ball.
Not sure if I am doing it right. In post 13 I asked a few questions. Hopefully I can get some feedback on those.
What i did notice is that it felt very weird pivoting and then basically no knowing where to look at the OB.
I tried to make adjustements for positioning and english and that messed me up. I didnt spend alot of time with it as I had a match but I did know how easy it would be to fine tune this system to be able to cheat pockets and slide into partially blocked holes.
Thanks for the tips
With all the talk about aiming systems recently, this one interested me greatly, so I messed around with it tonight. As a "by feel aimer" I was skeptical, but here is what I found out.
As spiderweb mentioned, there is a point where other aiming points on the object ball need to take place. What I noticed was this, for the 90/90 as described, it goes about to the 30 degrees. From there with the cue aimed through the same starting position on the cue ball through the center of the object ball (half ball hit), then pivot to center on the cue ball will cut the next angles up until about 45 degrees. At that point, take the same starting position on the cue ball to a quarter ball hit on the object ball, then pivot. Super thin cuts like 90ish degrees seemed do-able with a 90/10 then pivot.
Also noted, 90/90 seemed to work with english for most of the angles with really thin stuff being the exception. I was getting 45 degree cuts with 90/90 and extreme outside bhe. If you took the time to figure the clock face on the cue ball, you could probably adjust that way with only one starting point.
I find it interesting that the system is pretty basic in its theory, but has a lot to offer given you take the time to read the angle of the shot and setup/pivot correctly.
I know who Ill be calling soon!
Chuck
As spiderweb mentioned, there is a point where other aiming points on the object ball need to take place. What I noticed was this, for the 90/90 as described, it goes about to the 30 degrees. From there with the cue aimed through the same starting position on the cue ball through the center of the object ball (half ball hit), then pivot to center on the cue ball will cut the next angles up until about 45 degrees. At that point, take the same starting position on the cue ball to a quarter ball hit on the object ball, then pivot. Super thin cuts like 90ish degrees seemed do-able with a 90/10 then pivot.
Also noted, 90/90 seemed to work with english for most of the angles with really thin stuff being the exception. I was getting 45 degree cuts with 90/90 and extreme outside bhe. If you took the time to figure the clock face on the cue ball, you could probably adjust that way with only one starting point.
I find it interesting that the system is pretty basic in its theory, but has a lot to offer given you take the time to read the angle of the shot and setup/pivot correctly.
I know who Ill be calling soon!
Chuck
Thanks to Ron for sharing and Cleary for the efforts in making the video and diagrams possible. I've followed all the previous aiming threads and this is the best and clearest explanation of a pivot system yet. Considering the inevitable criticism from the skeptics that's sure to follow, your desire to put your system out there purely to help others is commendable and very much appreciated by many.
Bill
Bill
SpiderWebComm said:
Thanks.. I'm practicing it, just noticed on 90-90 sometimes that when i shoot a cut that has a lot of angle i can't seem to pivot enough to pocket the ball, is this limitation what ron is telling? Or should i try what RIver city just posted?
Last edited:
dgem said:
See post #18
As with other pivot systems, this one is sensitive to distance between cue ball and object ball. Here's a drawing that shows why:
The red line is the 90-90 line. The black line is the cue stick, pivoted at a 10-inch bridge length to the center of the bottom white cue ball. The blue lines are the cut angles you get with yellow object balls at different distances.
You can see that the cut angles get thinner as the OB gets farther away. After a certain distance (about 28 inches for a 10-inch pivot) the CB misses the OB entirely. So this 90-90 pivot only hits the OB within relatively short CB-OB distances, where the changes in cut angles are the greatest for small changes in distance.
pj
chgo
The red line is the 90-90 line. The black line is the cue stick, pivoted at a 10-inch bridge length to the center of the bottom white cue ball. The blue lines are the cut angles you get with yellow object balls at different distances.
You can see that the cut angles get thinner as the OB gets farther away. After a certain distance (about 28 inches for a 10-inch pivot) the CB misses the OB entirely. So this 90-90 pivot only hits the OB within relatively short CB-OB distances, where the changes in cut angles are the greatest for small changes in distance.
pj
chgo
Last edited:
Patrick Johnson said:
Yes, as I said in my first post, the 90/90 is for shots that are at least 2 diamonds apart, so maybe around 2'??? Just a guess.
Shorter than two diamonds and its a different setup (90 on cueball/center on object ball, then pivot to centerball on cueball.) This lesson will come at a later date.
SoundWaves said:
As I said in my first post, I havnt had time to put EVERYTHING up... so this should be enough to chew on until then.
As far as balls that can go in multiple pockets, its the same thing just line up on the other side. Or if it can go in the side pocket or corner pocket, then you will have to use parts of the system that are not described yet. Please be patient. If your dying to know NOW... call Ron or better yet.. go to him for a lesson. You wont be disappointed.
