Secret To This Shot........
- Thread starter DrCue'sProtege
- Start date
Me too. If anyone would care to try the draw shot on table 4, they'll get odds on making both balls. If you play on buckets that don't tighten at the slightest hint of speed, then maybe the draw shot can be made to work.Cornerman said:
On lots of shots like this -- thanks for posting it BTW, DCP -- it would be nice to have the proponents of the various methods get together and actually do the experiments. Maybe with a small calcutta.
Bob Jewett said:
Bob,
Wow; my vote for coolest idea of the year. Maybe we could get together a catalog of 5 shots that have been argued here on the forum; then have all of the visitors to the AZB room at the DCC try each of the 5 shots. Perhaps consensus would occur!!!!
Thanks for the idea.
Bob Jewett said:
I agree about the cinch and bank, but my question is how exactly you would try to cinch the 5. I've had very poor results every time I tried to shoot straight at the ball; just couldn't keep the cb on the rail all the way there. The only way I've ever had any luck was by aiming out from the rail slightly and using inside. Is that how you shoot this shot?
That was my second choice, and if we have a challenge shot competition, I might put it up against the draw shot.PROG8R said:
Yes, that's the standard suggestion. Some tables have a rail groove that will help.Aaron_S said:
With both balls on the rail, I may not be too keen to play the shot slowly. Sometimes a slower shot cause the CB to roll into the center jaw.
I'd be tempted to play it firm with left draw to come back to about the same position, but hopefully 6 inches from the rail. The swerve from the low left would allow me to aim away from the rail a fraction to avoid the center pocket jaw.
Though I'd even consider a safe from here on a particularly tight table or on one that is known to have obstructing center jaws.
I wouldn't play for the bank unless it was a table I knew well and/or I had a better positional option next shot via a bank.
Colin
I'd be tempted to play it firm with left draw to come back to about the same position, but hopefully 6 inches from the rail. The swerve from the low left would allow me to aim away from the rail a fraction to avoid the center pocket jaw.
Though I'd even consider a safe from here on a particularly tight table or on one that is known to have obstructing center jaws.
I wouldn't play for the bank unless it was a table I knew well and/or I had a better positional option next shot via a bank.
Colin
I would drill this shot pretty hard with low left and draw the cue as far as I could hoping it comes off the end rail and into position for the 6.
As Collin said I wouldn't want to shoot this shot soft so if I am going to be hitting it hard I would just say screw it and drill it with almost everything I had. I'm also only a B player but thats what I would do.
As Collin said I wouldn't want to shoot this shot soft so if I am going to be hitting it hard I would just say screw it and drill it with almost everything I had. I'm also only a B player but thats what I would do.
td873 said:When playing for money, this translates to, "I would sell out as best as I could, and try to donate as much cash as quickly as possible to my opponent."
LOL, just kidding Harvy - I know you were talking about practice time
-td
No actually I wasn't. I would get up there and drill that ball into the corner pocket as if it had eyes and bring the cueball back screeching to its destination. Sometimes you just have to shoot the frigging balls in. If I miss I miss.
Suggestion
Just make the 5 and bank the 6 into the side. I mean if you can bank at all, you should make the 6 90% of the time ... lol
Linda ... JMHO, but I think on the safety you recommended intending to get the cue back uptable to the end rail would cause the 5 to overrun the downtable end rail and leave it over by the corner pocket for a shot.
(maybe taking the 5 ball 2 rails and then the end rail, but just down to the end rail I think would overrun considering the angle and speed needed by cue ball to get it all the way back uptable).
But what was mentioned before is right, if you KNOW how to control the cue ball in the first place, you would never have a hard shot except for the ones left to you by your opponent sometimes.
This reminds me of that old joke about the guy that got cleaned out by a player, and the guy said, 'That player isn't any good, he never made a hard shot!' .... lol
Just make the 5 and bank the 6 into the side. I mean if you can bank at all, you should make the 6 90% of the time ... lol
Linda ... JMHO, but I think on the safety you recommended intending to get the cue back uptable to the end rail would cause the 5 to overrun the downtable end rail and leave it over by the corner pocket for a shot.
(maybe taking the 5 ball 2 rails and then the end rail, but just down to the end rail I think would overrun considering the angle and speed needed by cue ball to get it all the way back uptable).
But what was mentioned before is right, if you KNOW how to control the cue ball in the first place, you would never have a hard shot except for the ones left to you by your opponent sometimes.
This reminds me of that old joke about the guy that got cleaned out by a player, and the guy said, 'That player isn't any good, he never made a hard shot!' .... lol
first off if both balls are "frozen" then the control of the cue ball has to go forward. it's virtually impossible to do a draw shot on this shot because the only way to make the 5 ball is to first "push" the ball off the rail and curve it back on line with english. you wouldn't be able to apply any force on the shot or you would never make the ball. the only viable option is a bank or thin cut in the side.
Snapshot9 said:
Well, right now I wouldn't have a chance in hell of being able to do it this way, but my option back in the day would have been a smooth, smoth draw with a super exaggerated follow through. It ends up being a medium speed hit, which is slow enough to not jaw out, but it will actually get you almost all the way back up the table.
I used to practice shooting a spot shot from the corner of the break box and drawing the cue ball away from the top rail. Fairly difficult to do, but with enough practice, it makes position plays like this hangers. I once had a one pocket shot come up where I banked a ball towards my pocket with about 6 feet separating the cue ball and object ball. The object ball hung up in my pocket, and the cue ball drew back about five feet to freeze in between the front two balls in the stack. The cue travelled 6 foot to the object ball, and drew back about 5 feet, for total travelled distance of 11 feet. The object ball went about a foot to the rail, and 9 feet back, for total travel of about 10 feet. That spot shot practice smoothed out my stroke so much, it allowed me position options that other players just didn't have. Well worth the time.
Did I mention I can't wait to get back from Iraq and start practicing again?
Russ
skins said:
No offense, but I think Efren, or for that matter, a lot of todays pros, would do just what you said, shoot the shot with bottom left, and just draw it right back.
Nothing "virtually impossible" about this shot. Line up on the shot as if shooting a normal draw stroke, move your bridge hand a little to the left and you'll be applying low left english, then move your aim to the right slightly, depending on how much your cue deflects, and how smooth your stroke is. If it is smooth, then the english will "take" soon after the stroke.
No doubt, you have to have a smooth stroke to even think about drawing back, but that's what practice is for. The problem intermediate players have with shots requiring this kind of stroke is that:
1. They hit the shot too hard, not allowing the cue ball to curve back after deflection
and
2. They move too far off center ball when applying the inside english. Only enough inside need be applied to compensate for your cue's deflection.
Russ
skins said:
You can shoot this shot with alot of speed and still pocket it while drawing the cueball back at an angle. Whether thats the smartest thing or not I don't know but it can be done.
Russ Chewning said:
what? what do you mean "Nothing "virtually impossible" about this shot". the balls are frozen on the rail. even if you hit the ball perfect you can't get enough speed for the shot to draw without affecting the shot to the pocket because of the fact the ball has to be pushed from the rail. anytime your ready i'll take you or anyone else up including Efren on this bet. anyone want the action?