shaft/tip fitting possibility??
- Thread starter tigerseye
- Start date
This question makes NO sence to me...JER
tigerseye said:
If the client is willing to pay for the different tips and shaft he wants to try..why not?
Regards,
Duc.
If a builder were so inclined, he could have numerous style shafts with numerous shafts of each style equipped with different tips. Then a customer could try every combo the builder offers & choose what works best. But we don't live in Walgreen's, and it's not a perfect world. It's unrealistic for a builder to do this unless all or most of his business is local. For most of us, everything is phone or email correspondence, so there's no way to let the buyer try everything. The best we can do is learn about you & your game & cues you have liked most, then work with you to make an educated guess on what's best for you.
qbilder said:
Just curious....how many different flexes can a shaft possibly have? I am assuming the flex depends on the diameter of the shaft right?? I like a firm tip but have had trouble getting 2 tips that play the same....
Got any suggestions?
Also i want everyone to know that i am not a novice player. I am just wanting to know what is now on the market for i have strayed away for a while and am looking to get everything that will help me perform to the best of my ability.
Thanks for your reply...
tigerseye said:
I'm no expert in either, but it seems to me there are no parallels. In golf, in general, the faster one swings the stiffer the shaft needs to be to get the proper timing of the 'release', when the shaft straightens. There is no dynamic like that in the pool stroke, the shaft does not flex like a golf club. The selection of different heads so popular today is done mainly to correct swing flaws that should be corrected by changing the swing, not by buying a closed-faced driver to fix your slice for example, imo. There is no similar concept in pool where the stroke should be the same or extremely similar for all players. The various golf club lie angles are needed as a result of various swing planes (think tall players swinging upright and little short duffers like myself having a flat swing, except that I play with shortened clubs which help compensate), again there is no parallel in pool. About all I see in pool is the selection of cue length, and the tip hardness. Unfortunately unlike golf there is no generally accepted method for determining what tip is "best" for any given player. Just my thoughts on this interesting subject.
Dave
If you have a shaft and would like to try different brands and types of tips on it, I have a system that will accomodate what you want.tigerseye said:
Once the holder is on the shaft, you can try any type of tip you want.They only take seconds to change out.
I have a selection that I use locally to help people out.
In the seletion I have Le pro, Elkmaster, Moori-med+hard, Talisman-med+hard, Tiger-hard, Superpro, Majestic-med , phenolic break, and a few others that I don't know what they are. Tips people gave me to try.
The tips, once attached, play just as well as if they were glued to the end of the shaft.
This allows you to try a tip change it and try something else. You can also see the difference with nickel or dime radius or what ever you shape you want.
Neil Lickfold
DaveK said:
Hi Dave, you are the winner of the most complete answer. GREAT JOB...JER
And no matter how hard you try to find the perfect combination you'll probably find something the next day that feels even better.
To wit: I've always played with thin shafts. I prefer 11.2mm up to 12mm tops. I thought that I'd never change that preference. It seemed ingrained.
I have a Sugartree cue with lake wood shafts and I've wanted for months to have that cue be my playing cue but the shafts are 13mm and in my bridge hand they felt like tree stumps... they seemed huge!
The other day I got that cue down from the rack and started playing with it. The weight was perfect for me. The butt is thin just as I like. The finish is beautiful and the design is flawless. I love the honey colored shafts and the Super Pro tips. Everything is right but the dammed shafts are huge!!
I kept on playing with it despite the big shafts and now, after a couple of days I don't even notice that the shafts are so big. They seem just as natural to me as my little 11.5 Z2 shafts that I've been playing with for a year or more and the feel of that cue is just astounding.
I've changed a preference that I thought was ingrained and would never change. Anything is possible.
To wit: I've always played with thin shafts. I prefer 11.2mm up to 12mm tops. I thought that I'd never change that preference. It seemed ingrained.
I have a Sugartree cue with lake wood shafts and I've wanted for months to have that cue be my playing cue but the shafts are 13mm and in my bridge hand they felt like tree stumps... they seemed huge!
The other day I got that cue down from the rack and started playing with it. The weight was perfect for me. The butt is thin just as I like. The finish is beautiful and the design is flawless. I love the honey colored shafts and the Super Pro tips. Everything is right but the dammed shafts are huge!!
I kept on playing with it despite the big shafts and now, after a couple of days I don't even notice that the shafts are so big. They seem just as natural to me as my little 11.5 Z2 shafts that I've been playing with for a year or more and the feel of that cue is just astounding.
I've changed a preference that I thought was ingrained and would never change. Anything is possible.
qbilder said:
In theory, you could probably do the same thing with a threaded tenon and all threaded ferrules, just don't glue the ferrules on, eh? Of course you wouldn't want to play with the shaft like that for a whole match, but a couple of shots with each ferrule/tip combo might work? Interesting concept. Worst case scenario you might have to replace a tenon.
dave sutton
Banned
as stated before i dont really do much with my shafts. what you see is what you get. its a long nice taper and a good player.
that being said if you ask for a moori and do not like it and want to try an everest. i will do the tip for cost to make you happy. best i can do i guess
that being said if you ask for a moori and do not like it and want to try an everest. i will do the tip for cost to make you happy. best i can do i guess
It won't be the same after you glue it.shakes said:
The glue even has some bearing in the playability of the ferrule.
When you have threads, you have some play/looseness.
That's why they need to be glued.
dave sutton
Banned
my ferrules dont have any play or looseness. as a matter of fact sometimes when i dry fit my ferrules i have to get channel locks to get them off. i suspect if thats the case your tenon is too small. i cut mine like .285
I think most experienced, reputable cue technicians can ask you exactly what kind of hit you are looking for and come up with a pretty close fit, so to speak.
