you guys ever run into this problem? no pun intended
shaft too stiff?????
- Thread starter poolplayer2093
- Start date
Nee meither.
Cmon Sam... your BCM cue too stiff?
one of the shafts is crazy stiff bro! no joke i think it might be too stiff for me.
i thought about doing that but i figure i'll leave it the way it is. the devil you know kind of thing
i've had shafts that were too stiff for me. Sometimes the shaft can be too stiff for my liking. The deflection on the cue ball is difficult because it's too stiff and there is not spring to the shafts. that shafts just don't flex out of the way and hence squirts the cue ball out.
Balance of each cue part is everything. I've learned that good shafts don't play "dead" because they are too stiff, but players should not have a shaft that is too flexible as well because it would be difficult to force follow or power draw on 9ft tables. In essence you want something in between based on your skills and preference.
Every good cue has an optimum "flex point". If the shaft is too stiff that flex point won't reverberate enough. I spoke with great detail about flex points with Randy Mobley and Dennis Searing. They're excellent at explaining about the science that goes into building great cues. I took the knowledge they told me and was able to better understand not just the flex point in the just the shaft but also how it applies in the entire cue. Hence the creation of the half stainless steel joint.
Balance of each cue part is everything. I've learned that good shafts don't play "dead" because they are too stiff, but players should not have a shaft that is too flexible as well because it would be difficult to force follow or power draw on 9ft tables. In essence you want something in between based on your skills and preference.
Every good cue has an optimum "flex point". If the shaft is too stiff that flex point won't reverberate enough. I spoke with great detail about flex points with Randy Mobley and Dennis Searing. They're excellent at explaining about the science that goes into building great cues. I took the knowledge they told me and was able to better understand not just the flex point in the just the shaft but also how it applies in the entire cue. Hence the creation of the half stainless steel joint.
And the wife or gf will be saying, "Let's wait another hour or so to see if it goes down on it's own honey."
. Johnnyt
What's force follow? I'm confused here because I have two definitions.
he just means anything you have to power stroke
What type of wood is made from? I have never heard of a shaft being to stiff. However, I have played with cues that had a stiff hitting butt, and when combine with stiff shaft I did not like the feed back from the hit.
Oh and by the way, all the cues I am talking about were cored with purple heart or ebony.
JIMO
the butt is african blackwood cored with maple.
the shaft it really dark with a ring count of 25gpi
I've run into this with Timeless Timber shafts. I have two of them and they both are quite dark.
I ordered them at 12.5 mm and with a pro taper... only to find them too stiff for my liking so I had them taken down to 12.2 mm
Much better. :thumbup2:
If it lasts more than 4 hrs, you might want to get into the cinema photography business. Stud Muffin.
I don't know why it is so stiff, but I suspect that it is combination of the shaft wood and the fact the cue is cored, corded cues always have a more firm hit from experience anyway.
Hope this helps
Shaft Too Stiff?
I guess the best way to approach this is to first obtain some facts. What is the length of the taper on the shaft? Is the ferrule composite material or ivory? Has the ferrule been cut, ie., reduced in size? What type of tip is on the shaft and is it the same as you've always played with? What's the shaft size in mm and is this the same as you've always played with?
Now after pondering the answers to those questions, see if you can put your finger on anything different that might be a link to answering your question. Since you have the cue'sjaft, the rst of us are just pre-supposing what the actual reasons might be.
If nothing comes to mind, remember than wood can be of different ages, cut from a different part of the tree, dried slowly or quickly, naturally or artificially, all of which affect the removal of moisture and rigidity of the wood itself. Anyway, that's my take on the situation.
Matt
I guess the best way to approach this is to first obtain some facts. What is the length of the taper on the shaft? Is the ferrule composite material or ivory? Has the ferrule been cut, ie., reduced in size? What type of tip is on the shaft and is it the same as you've always played with? What's the shaft size in mm and is this the same as you've always played with?
Now after pondering the answers to those questions, see if you can put your finger on anything different that might be a link to answering your question. Since you have the cue'sjaft, the rst of us are just pre-supposing what the actual reasons might be.
If nothing comes to mind, remember than wood can be of different ages, cut from a different part of the tree, dried slowly or quickly, naturally or artificially, all of which affect the removal of moisture and rigidity of the wood itself. Anyway, that's my take on the situation.
Matt
................
Last edited: