Should there be glue on my ferrule

Pre-Flag Master

Pre-Flag Master

Cue Ball Man
Silver Member
The local tip replacer here has a tendency to get glue on the sides of my ferrule. He invariably wants to sand the sides and make it look nice and clean because, as he states, he is a perfectionist. I always have to ask him, politely, not to sand the ferrule. I don't want diameter loss over time to change the way my cue plays, and I'd rather have an ugly ferrule than have that happen. Truth be told, I'd rather have both, and every once in a while I will let him sand it clean.

The question is, should he not be letting the glue get on the side of my ferrule in the first place? I'm not even talking about right at the tip. There will be glue 1/4" or more down from the tip.

Fatz
 
It depends if you're talking about globs of glue.

There shouldn't be globs of glue on the side, he should wipe off any excess glue before it dries, but you can't avoid getting some glue on the ferrule if you glue the tip on right.

Jaden
 
After I glue on the tip, I hold it in place with a concave center in the tail stock. Then I spin it by hand and wipe off the excess glue with a paper towel before it dries. There is never any leftover glue on the ferrule.

Kim
 
Hi,

Yes one should wipe of the glue off but super glue gel can leave a film on the ferrule that I would sand off, clean up and seal the ferrule.

The glue may be on the ferrule because you gave him instructions that were counter to his normal procedures. Quote: (I always have to ask him, politely, not to sand the ferrule.)

Shafts and ferrules are things that wear out over time from use and maintenance. Not sanding is your choice.

Rick
 
Last edited:
Tell him to use gorilla glue instead or mask a tape around the ferrule when using CA.
 
I have a very different opinion about this as opposed to the other responders. I put on an excess amount of glue to insure that there is some on the ferrule. I turn my tips down on a machinist's lathe till I see white material being removed which is the excess glue. This way I know that I am very close to the ferrule but not making contact. I then put the shaft into my tip machine for final trimming and shaping. In this machine I leave about a 1.5" of shaft extending from the machines jaws so that it can be easily be deflected away. I then use a skew to finish the trimming and shaping of the tip. When trimming the sides of the tip the tip and ferrule are deflected away slightly and the shafts memory wants it to flex back against the skew so that the tip can be trimmed to the ferrule perfectly even though the ferrule may not be perfectly round. I then sand the tip so that there is a perfect transition from ferrule to tip.

Dick
 
I always make sure to clean the ferrule before I take off the old tip. This ensures I won't get any cleaner residue on the ferrule after I face it, and if I don't wipe the excess glue off fast enough(haven't had it happen), it doesn't have chalk under it.


Rodney
 
that's exactly how I do it too...

whammo57 said:
After I glue on the tip, I hold it in place with a concave center in the tail stock. Then I spin it by hand and wipe off the excess glue with a paper towel before it dries. There is never any leftover glue on the ferrule.

Kim
Click to expand...

Yep, that's how I do it, but there will always be a small mount or layer of glue that doesn't wipe off. I will typically sand it off with some really fine sand paper to clean it up. It doesn't take off but a negligible amount of ferrule if any at all though, so I wouldn't know what the problem would be.

Jaden
 
Jaden said:
Yep, that's how I do it, but there will always be a small mount or layer of glue that doesn't wipe off. I will typically sand it off with some really fine sand paper to clean it up. It doesn't take off but a negligible amount of ferrule if any at all though, so I wouldn't know what the problem would be.

Jaden
Click to expand...

Or you can use debonder.
 
Pre-Flag Master said:
The local tip replacer here has a tendency to get glue on the sides of my ferrule. He invariably wants to sand the sides and make it look nice and clean because, as he states, he is a perfectionist. I always have to ask him, politely, not to sand the ferrule. I don't want diameter loss over time to change the way my cue plays, and I'd rather have an ugly ferrule than have that happen. Truth be told, I'd rather have both, and every once in a while I will let him sand it clean.

The question is, should he not be letting the glue get on the side of my ferrule in the first place? I'm not even talking about right at the tip. There will be glue 1/4" or more down from the tip.

Fatz
Click to expand...

Many guys want to work on cues, you see it on here, the new poster who says, "I don't want to build cues I just want to do repairs", as though that's easy. The problem is, repairs are hard to do even a simple tip. The work has to be done a high level of competence, it is what the customer expects, not excuses of why they messed up your cue. They take the customers cue and use it as a learning experience. There are no margins for errors the cue can be damaged so easily be it poor work or even just being dropped. The best thing to do is find someone else to work on your cue who knows what they are doing. Let the guy learn on someone else s cue.
 
Last edited:
macguy said:
Many guys want to work on cues, you see it on here, the new poster who says, "I don't want to build cues I just want to do repairs", as though that's easy. The problem is, repairs are hard to do even a simple tip. The work has to be done a high level of competence, it is what the customer expects, not excuses of why they messed up your cue. They take the customers cue and use it as a learning experience. There are no margins for errors the cue can be damaged so easily be it poor work or even just being dropped. The best thing to do is find someone else to work on your cue who knows what they are doing. Let the guy learn on someone else s cue.
Click to expand...

Amen brother!
 
I clean the ferrule first,
Then wipe the glue off as soon as the tip has tailstock pressure on it.
Unless I use kicker on the tip, the glue is completely wiped off before it hardens.
On occasion I will over glue it and seal the ferrule with the ca at the same time, but that is pretty rare.
I agree, getting a lathe and practicing on customers cues is a common practice! Good for my business though :)
 
Jaden said:
Yep, that's how I do it, but there will always be a small mount or layer of glue that doesn't wipe off. I will typically sand it off with some really fine sand paper to clean it up. It doesn't take off but a negligible amount of ferrule if any at all though, so I wouldn't know what the problem would be.

Jaden
Click to expand...

I use a block to lightly sand the whole ferrule so a straight edge will show the ferrule is still uniform. I've seen tip jobs that I take my credit card and lay it against the ferrule and WOW, thats a cone.
 
I am suprised not to see anyone masking the ferrule. I use that blue masking tape. I put one wrap around the ferrule just a little above the ferrule leaving a tab sticking out so I can quickly remove the tape. I use the tip of my finger to peen over the tape around the ferrule, ( again, it is slightly above the top of the ferrule), so it is not in the way of the tip. Once the tip is set on in the glue I quickly peel off the tape around the ferrule and it takes any excess glue with it. I have been doing it this way since I have been using the super gels that in most cases does not just wipe away and can make a real mess if you try.
 
macguy said:
I am suprised not to see anyone masking the ferrule. I use that blue masking tape. I put one wrap around the ferrule just a little above the ferrule leaving a tab sticking out so I can quickly remove the tape. I use the tip of my finger to peen over the tape around the ferrule, ( again, it is slightly above the top of the ferrule), so it is not in the way of the tip. Once the tip is set on in the glue I quickly peel off the tape around the ferrule and it takes any excess glue with it. I have been doing it this way since I have been using the super gels that in most cases does not just wipe away and can make a real mess if you try.
Click to expand...

Next time I'll try your method. The last time I used blue tape I ended up with blue tape glued to the ferrule.
 
I use cheap dollar store cellophane tape to mask the ferrule. The kind you complain about because it does not stick as well as Scotch brand.

I do use CA gel, and I remove the tape before it dries. Comes out with a darn clean glue line every time. Easy to finish from that point...and it needs to be because I do mine by hand.

Years ago, before I started masking the ferrule, I would occasionally have to do a little sanding due to a little stray glue on the ferrule. I hated that. It was wrong and I knew it. I hit on the idea of masking it one day....then learned online years later that it was the advised way to do it anyway.
 
Neil mentioned a great trick a while back: use plumber's teflon tape to mask the ferrule. It works great!

Robin
 
carguy said:
Neil mentioned a great trick a while back: use plumber's teflon tape to mask the ferrule. It works great!

Robin
Click to expand...

I have read that myself and it sounds like a great idea. I just haven't tried it yet.
 
bud02 said:
Next time I'll try your method. The last time I used blue tape I ended up with blue tape glued to the ferrule.
Click to expand...
If you're doing this by hand -- Not a problem. Actually a benefit.
When the blue is gone you're done.
 
3kushn said:
If you're doing this by hand -- Not a problem. Actually a benefit.
When the blue is gone you're done.
Click to expand...

LOL, make the best of it.

I like the teflon idea and have since used cellophane tape, better idea.

The problem I had with blue tape was it appeared to wick the glue along the edge, this IMO made the lock-tight SG gel harden almost instantly. cello or teflon won't wick the CA.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top