Hi,
Not to disagree with anyone's desire to use threaded ferrules but here is an observation and my opinion based on almost 12 years of doing cue repair at my pool hall and my cue shop.
It has been my observation that the majority of the cracked ferrules I have repaired were threaded. While I use Safety glasses as a general practice, when doing cracked ferrules it is critical because most times a segment flies off while turning it down revealing a bad glue bond somewhere on the threaded tenon.
It seems to me that I never want wax applied to an area I am about to glue up! :shocked2:
IMO, I believe that a thru hole ferrule fit properly with v groove keyways filed in the tenon offers the most reliable ferrule set up in the long run.
As I said most ferrule repair jobs I get are on threaded tenons. I always install a new tenon and go with a thru hole ferrule after advising the customer.
I have never had a repair job or had one of my shafts with a thru hole ferrule come back to me cracked in almost 12 years and I have done at least 1 to 2 per week for that time with the exception of some ivory jobs. Do the math, that is a lot of ferrules.
I don't believe that threading a ferrule by itself has any effect on the hit but I understand that a caped ferrule would have a feel difference to a player.
JMO,
Rick
I was not going to post on this thread because I have entered my opinion on this subject before. Yesterday I performed a repair job on a cracked ferrule and it was very typical of what I have described above. So I took a pic and as you can see the glue bond was not consistent on the threads as is the case with most of the repairs I do on cracked threaded ferrules. Not all but most look like this in my experience.
Look closely at the cross section of the tenon / ferrule thread interface. The interlocking geometry sucks. If you are going to thread, get with the live threading and ditch the compression dies.
Not to disagree with anyone's desire to use threaded ferrules but here is an observation and my opinion based on almost 12 years of doing cue repair at my pool hall and my cue shop.
It has been my observation that the majority of the cracked ferrules I have repaired were threaded. While I use Safety glasses as a general practice, when doing cracked ferrules it is critical because most times a segment flies off while turning it down revealing a bad glue bond somewhere on the threaded tenon.
It seems to me that I never want wax applied to an area I am about to glue up! :shocked2:
IMO, I believe that a thru hole ferrule fit properly with v groove keyways filed in the tenon offers the most reliable ferrule set up in the long run.
As I said most ferrule repair jobs I get are on threaded tenons. I always install a new tenon and go with a thru hole ferrule after advising the customer.
I have never had a repair job or had one of my shafts with a thru hole ferrule come back to me cracked in almost 12 years and I have done at least 1 to 2 per week for that time with the exception of some ivory jobs. Do the math, that is a lot of ferrules.
I don't believe that threading a ferrule by itself has any effect on the hit but I understand that a caped ferrule would have a feel difference to a player.
JMO,
Rick
I was not going to post on this thread because I have entered my opinion on this subject before. Yesterday I performed a repair job on a cracked ferrule and it was very typical of what I have described above. So I took a pic and as you can see the glue bond was not consistent on the threads as is the case with most of the repairs I do on cracked threaded ferrules. Not all but most look like this in my experience.
Look closely at the cross section of the tenon / ferrule thread interface. The interlocking geometry sucks. If you are going to thread, get with the live threading and ditch the compression dies.
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