Tenons/ferrules

My practice debut. Cheap oak from Home depot. Does not cut clean but it is letting me get experience with the lathe and technique. The ferrule is a slip on. It fits snug. I had to twist it on gently. It had a slight resistance. The fact it is being chemically bonded(glued) not mechanically bonded by threading how tight should it be? Thanks, Frank
 

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GoldCrown said:
My practice debut. Cheap oak from Home depot. Does not cut clean but it is letting me get experience with the lathe and technique. The ferrule is a slip on. It fits snug. I had to twist it on gentle. It had a slight resistance. The fact it is being chemically bonded(glued) not mechanically bonded by threading how tight should it be? Thanks, Frank
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That's waaaaaaaay too far from the chuck.
The shoulder of that tenon should not be more than 1/2 of an inch from the chuck.

It should be snug, but not overly tight .
Create glue rings around the tone and vertical grooves.
 
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GoldCrown said:
My practice debut. Cheap oak from Home depot. Does not cut clean but it is letting me get experience with the lathe and technique. The ferrule is a slip on. It fits snug. I had to twist it on gentle. It had a slight resistance. The fact it is being chemically bonded(glued) not mechanically bonded by threading how tight should it be? Thanks, Frank
Click to expand...

Cutting the tenon with that much wood sticking out has to give you vibration and tool push off.... and part deflection.....

Cut it only about 1/2 inch out of the chuck like Joey said............

Also plunge the tool in where the tenon will end before you start..... that will eliminate the big ball of wood hair you have spinning on that dowel..... LOL

Kim
 
JoeyInCali said:
That's waaaaaaaay too far from the chuck.
The shoulder of that tenon should not be more than 1/2 of an inch from the chuck.

It should be snug, but not overly tight .
Create glue rings around the tone and vertical grooves.
Click to expand...

whammo57 said:
Cutting the tenon with that much wood sticking out has to give you vibration and tool push off.... and part deflection.....

Cut it only about 1/2 inch out of the chuck like Joey said............

Also plunge the tool in where the tenon will end before you start..... that will eliminate the big ball of wood hair you have spinning on that dowel..... LOL

Kim
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Thank you. Feedback taken and understood. What's wrong with the "Wood Hair". I'm creating a different look:killingme::killingme:
Vibration and tool push off.... got plenty of that.
 
EightballJunkie said:
A couple things: Oak is prone to tear-out but it shouldn't be like that. Your bits may need to be sharpened, or you may simple need take lighter cuts. Already mentioned but chuck up a closer to your work, or if need be support longer pieces with the tail-stock.

Otherwise looking good.
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I'm not sure what bit to use. I used what came with the lathe. I'll take suggestions on bits. I did order some maple 1x30 dowels and will have wood for practical practice purpose. The oak is pretty bad but you should have seen the pine.
I will chuck closer and take lighter cuts. Everything is a learning experience right now. Will get better each time.
 
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2nd round. I'm using nothing but the best $.50 non thread ferrules. Are these supposed to faced/squared before fitting. The fit is snug. It butts up decently against the shaft. Removed it once and refitted it. I cannot remove it now as the tenon is twisting. No grooves yet. Will do that on the next round.
 

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GoldCrown said:
2nd round. I'm using nothing but the best $.50 non thread ferrules. Are these supposed to faced/squared before fitting. The fit is snug. It butts up decently against the shaft. Removed it once and refitted it. I cannot remove it now as the tenon is twisting. No grooves yet. Will do that on the next round.
Click to expand...


You ALWAYS want to face off your ferrules, if not, then you are placing your trust in someone else that may or may have not done it correctly, or done it at all.

As far as the tenon twisting........ that's a PERFECT scenario for you. Keep twisting the ferrule and if the tenon breaks off, then replace the tenon. That is the perfect scenario for when you get a cue in for repair, you WILL break a tenon or have one break on you, it is bound to happen eventually. So might as well snap it off yourself and get the practice. :)
 
Dirtbmw20 said:
You ALWAYS want to face off your ferrules, if not, then you are placing your trust in someone else that may or may have not done it correctly, or done it at all.

As far as the tenon twisting........ that's a PERFECT scenario for you. Keep twisting the ferrule and if the tenon breaks off, then replace the tenon. That is the perfect scenario for when you get a cue in for repair, you WILL break a tenon or have one break on you, it is bound to happen eventually. So might as well snap it off yourself and get the practice. :)
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ALL of the above is good advice
:thumbup:
Gary
 
Broken tenons coming up. It'll feel good to break something.
I got 2 maple dowels today....that'll give me a feel for what I will be working with as I go along.

I hope these pics are ok. If not I'll post better images. 1 and 3 are the same bit
 

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Dirtbmw20 said:
You ALWAYS want to face off your ferrules, if not, then you are placing your trust in someone else that may or may have not done it correctly, or done it at all.
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How does the shaft end of a pre drilled ferrule get squared off. Non thread I would put it on backward and face it and then reverse the ferrule. How about a threaded ferrule.
 
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GoldCrown said:
How does the shaft end of a pre drilled ferrule get squared off. Non thread I would put it on backward and face it and then reverse the ferrule. How about a threaded ferrule.
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The pre made ferrules I used to buy from Atlas were exceptionally square. I never had an issue with their face against the shaft shoulder.

I would lightly abrade their face with 320p sandpaper on a steel block before installation. That was mostly to make sure there were no burrs, or raised areas, and that they were clean.

I used to make all my ferrules from rod stock. After trying the premade ones, I only made from scratch ivory ferrules. The cost savings wasn't worth the time expenditure.... "To me".

Ymmv:)
 
GoldCrown said:
Drill Bits? Do I want a stub or is any quality bit ok.

Grooving(venting). Can someone illustrate a grooved tenon. I'd like to see the appropriate size. At first it's too big or too small. Thanks.
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Drill bits IMO is somewhere you can't skimp on quality. The Chinese ones are total junk. Get the cheapest US made ones you can find in the MSC book. I like the uncoated ones. I think the last set I bought of the 144 piece set was about $140. The same goes for center drills. Don't skimp on these two purchases.

<==== this recommendation is from working in a metal tool room for a few years.
 
GoldCrown said:
How does the shaft end of a pre drilled ferrule get squared off. Non thread I would put it on backward and face it and then reverse the ferrule. How about a threaded ferrule.
Click to expand...

When making your own ferrules, whether threaded or not, the face should be squared during the same holding setup as when the hole is finished. This assures perpendicularity of the face to the center axis of the ferrule.
 
Finishing the ferrule....removing the scratches. What is your technique. I butchered one...went over it with a lathe bit.
 
If you use a real good carbide cutter,
You can finish with 220 grit.
I usually step up to 12 or 1500 wet
 
I just saw your pictures... Your tool looks to be ground less than ideally. Read through that grinding link a few posts above.

The geometry and sharpness of the tool is HUGE. Especially with materials like we use that are flexible and can easily bend away from the tool under cutting loads.
 
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