The truth about Mezz shafts

Ok, let me see if I got this straight. The entire LD shaft thing is a scam, as you call it. But, Predator shaft deflects less than any other shaft you have ever played with.
Color me confused ??

I think what my buddy straight pool is saying is that for the price laminated LD shafts are a ripoff because the process and materials for a straight production shaft is cheap and efficient.
 
To the OP: I mean it genuinely when I say thank you for posting your opinion. :)

I play with a WD700 and agree that it plays VERY stiff, but I have been considering getting a WX900. Could you clarify what you meant by "...but there are some things that you can't do because it isn't a pro taper."

Like what?
 
Drop The Rock...You certainly are entitled to your opinion, but you should know the facts. What shaft you have plays no role in whether you can draw the CB, or put sidespin on the CB. That's all about the quality and accuracy of your stroke. Certainly one shaft can "feel" better to someone (I prefer the McDermott G-Core and the Tiger X Pro myself...but I can draw my rock or put max english on a CB with a housecue, as long as it has a decent tip). What shaft you play with is not a factor in how good your stroke is.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com
 
The WX900 on the other hand is the best conical taper LD shaft ever made (owned). The amount of English possible with that shaft is ridiculous and it feels very solid but there are some things that you can't do because it isn't a pro taper.

.


What are some of the things you can't do because it isn't a pro taper?
 
To the OP: I mean it genuinely when I say thank you for posting your opinion. :)

I play with a WD700 and agree that it plays VERY stiff, but I have been considering getting a WX900. Could you clarify what you meant by "...but there are some things that you can't do because it isn't a pro taper."

Like what?

Certain Masse shots. Particularly drawing the ball when extremely jacked up.
 
Guys, have anyone wondered why a " majority " of pros are playing with LD shaft and not standard shaft ?
I know its the indian and not the arrow.

Apart from the taiwanese pro who swear by their southwest .

I can't possibly think of any top pros not using mezz predator or ob.

Just something i've always been wondering about ??
Hopefully someone can chime in :)

SVB ? Efren?
Bustamante ? Strickland ?
 
Drop The Rock...You certainly are entitled to your opinion, but you should know the facts. What shaft you have plays no role in whether you can draw the CB, or put sidespin on the CB. That's all about the quality and accuracy of your stroke. Certainly one shaft can "feel" better to someone (I prefer the McDermott G-Core and the Tiger X Pro myself...but I can draw my rock or put max english on a CB with a housecue, as long as it has a decent tip). What shaft you play with is not a factor in how good your stroke is.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

The cue ball doesn't care about the quality of stroke, it doesn't care if it looks pretty, swerves, stutters, shudders or putters. Drawing (or following or moving the cueball in any fashion) only means that the cue tip hit the ball in a certain place with a certain speed and the tip-to-ball coefficient of friction was sufficient to keep the sliding of the two surfaces to a minimum.
 
The only pro who used to play with Mezz and one of theirs LD shafts but hasn't been sponsored by them at the same time was Willie Mosconi:thumbup:
 
Drop The Rock...You certainly are entitled to your opinion, but you should know the facts. What shaft you have plays no role in whether you can draw the CB, or put sidespin on the CB. That's all about the quality and accuracy of your stroke. Certainly one shaft can "feel" better to someone (I prefer the McDermott G-Core and the Tiger X Pro myself...but I can draw my rock or put max english on a CB with a housecue, as long as it has a decent tip). What shaft you play with is not a factor in how good your stroke is.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com


So If gave you 10 different shafts on the same exact cue that were unmarked and the same weight and same appearance and let you shoot the same draw shot with each that you would get the same result with in a say a 6 inch margin of error (which is a fair amount). I don't claim to have a perfect stroke at all but assuming you do (or very high quality) it may not make that much of a difference. For someone who doesn't is it possible that the shaft can make a difference for them, be it, diameter, taper etc? Is it possible certain shafts require more cue speed to get as much action? If these factors are all impossible then sure, you are right.
 
It's easy:wink:
Because they are sponsored by those companies:):):)
I would actually play with a pencil if Dupont for an example was my sponsor:cool:

And a lot of players get free deals from other shaft makers .
Did SVB and Efren play with low def shafts before getting sponsored ?
 
Certain masse shots, drawing the ball while jacked up is much more difficult and jumping full cue is much more difficult.

Masses are easier with conical taper shafts.
But, harder with low-end mass shafts .
It's harder to have a long fluid stroke with a conical taper imo.
 
Masses are easier with conical taper shafts.
But, harder with low-end mass shafts .
It's harder to have a long fluid stroke with a conical taper imo.

Ahh I am not exactly correct then. I have only tried low end mass conical shafts.
 
My WX900 is on the way. I played with the one Oscar has for about 20 minutes, and liked it enough to order one. I hit every shot how I wanted to, and it did exactly what I wanted it to. The shaft really agrees with my stroke and aim. First shot I hit with it was jacked up, full table draw with running english on a ball that was maybe 6 inches out of the corner pocket and the cue ball almost on the rail. Split the 4" pocket and drew so deep into the corner I almost scratched in the side. That shaft is like magic.
 
When I first got my Mezz cue with the united joint the 700 shaft I found it too stiff, could not get much action at all with it.. now 2 years later there nothing I can't do with it and do not find it stiff at all. Makes me wonder what I was thinking at that time. Maybe it was an adjustment coming from the Z2 shaft.

I would guess that using a 11.75 to 12mm needs very little stroke skill to get the cue ball moving as apposed to the larger 12.5mm. I now find that the smaller diameters shafts are easier to over hit shots.

I have owned...tried all the Mezz shafts and I am currently using the EX Pro, its stiffer then the 700, its slightly softer hitting than the HP II, not sure if it just the tip?

When I go back to the 700 i need to make some adjustments to my aim and stroke. My girlfriend dropped her cue and 700 tip came off so I put on the EX Pro, she did not like it all.. she preferred using 900 as a back up.

I love the 900, every time I go back to it there seems to be no adjustments needed.
 
What shaft you have plays no role in whether you can draw the CB, or put sidespin on the CB. That's all about the quality and accuracy of your stroke. Certainly one shaft can "feel" better to someone (I prefer the McDermott G-Core and the Tiger X Pro myself...but I can draw my rock or put max english on a CB with a housecue, as long as it has a decent tip). What shaft you play with is not a factor in how good your stroke is.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

I'm no teacher or scientist of the game of pool, but I 100% disagree with this statement, you don't need to study or make experiments to see that this is just wrong. Stroke does play huge part of spin and draw shots but you could have the best stroke in the entire world and if I bring to you a broom with a kamui tip, you wouldnt be able to draw as good as if I bring to you a decent shaft with good taper and good tip.

Hell you could draw better with good shaft and lepro, than a broom with kamui tip, I'm sorry it just doesn't make sense what you said, you dont even need to be that smart to think for 10mins about this then think, umm no. you need good stroke and good cue to be able to draw better, and its not about being comfortable.
 
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I'm no teacher or scientist of the game of pool, but I 100% disagree with this statement, you don't need to study or make experiments to see that this is just wrong. Stroke does play huge part of spin and draw shots but you could have the best stroke in the entire world and if I bring to you a broom with a kamui tip, you wouldnt be able to draw as good as if I bring to you a decent shaft with good taper and good tip.

Hell you could draw better with good shaft and lepro, than a broom with kamui tip, I'm sorry it just doesn't make sense what you said, you dont even need to be that smart to think for 10mins about this then think, umm no. you need good stroke and good cue to be able to draw better, and its not about being comfortable.

Leave this one to the scientists. A person may be better able to draw a cueball with a shaft suited to their hands (i.e. a broomstick is thick and clumsy), but the cueball doesn't care if it is hit with a piece of steel, rubber, a bullet, a whale penis or a cuestick. As long as the energy and friction are the same, it will provide the same result. The person may not be able to create the same result with all the above, but from a physics point of view, it doesn't matter.

As far as stroke goes, here is a test: Grab a house cue with no bumper. Hold the tip at a cueball where a draw shot should be hit. Tightly hold the cue level at that point and have a friend hit the butt of the cue with a hammer. You should see the cueball leave the tip with draw...and great draw, but you will be missing the 'golden element' of what most people say causes great draw...the follow through.
 
Leave this one to the scientists. A person may be better able to draw a cueball with a shaft suited to their hands (i.e. a broomstick is thick and clumsy), but the cueball doesn't care if it is hit with a piece of steel, rubber, a bullet, a whale penis or a cuestick. As long as the energy and friction are the same, it will provide the same result. The person may not be able to create the same result with all the above, but from a physics point of view, it doesn't matter.

As far as stroke goes, here is a test: Grab a house cue with no bumper. Hold the tip at a cueball where a draw shot should be hit. Tightly hold the cue level at that point and have a friend hit the butt of the cue with a hammer. You should see the cueball leave the tip with draw...and great draw, but you will be missing the 'golden element' of what most people say causes great draw...the follow through.

I agree - if you want to draw the rock you need to focus on a nice smooth follow through. Shafts may play a part, perhaps, but I can draw with anything...
 
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