Thoughts on joint diameter

JimL

JimL

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I’d like some feed back from cue makers & players on pros & cons of smaller joint sizes. The reason I’m asking is I’ve been experimenting with different cue making techniques & materials & have hit on a combination that is closing in on the feel & playablity I’m looking for. Which brings me to a joint diameter of between .835 to .825.

I’m wondering if the generally accepted target of .850 is for structural integrity & longevity or just a spec that has become the norm.

Thanks

Jim
 
No spec

Try anything,don't use a spec persay start with what works for you....Just my 2 cents...:grin-square:
 
I personally like the less whippy feel of the .850" joint, but I have hit with smaller joints that played well. If you like the way your cue plays someone else will also. So go with it and create your own custom hit and others should like it also. Just remember not to get discouraged when you hear people saying negatives about the way your cue plays, as everyone has different expectations. I quit trying to make everyone happy long ago, and I build Hightower Custom Cues the way I think is best and if people want a cue that plays like a Schon, I say buy a Schon. Or if they want a cue that plays like a McDermott, buy a McDermott. I could list hundreds of more names and say the same thing. I don't like for people to ask me to make a cue that plays like someone else's cue.
 
i use a more traditional size. .850. to 1.275 i like the stiffness better. like chris said if you want a bluegrass hit for example buy a bluegrassi wouldnt ask laurie at southwest to make me a bushka copy

bottom line do what you like. build a quality cue your way and as long as its a quality product youll get your following
 
JimL said:
I’d like some feed back from cue makers & players on pros & cons of smaller joint sizes. The reason I’m asking is I’ve been experimenting with different cue making techniques & materials & have hit on a combination that is closing in on the feel & playablity I’m looking for. Which brings me to a joint diameter of between .835 to .825.

I’m wondering if the generally accepted target of .850 is for structural integrity & longevity or just a spec that has become the norm.

Thanks

Jim
Click to expand...
I think single angle .840 to 1.250 is like the most common taper now.
.835 is common with compound/parabolic tapered cues like SW or BlueGrass.
 
My 3/8 pin cues are running about .840 to 1.240, but My current personal cue is .840 to 1.230

My first cues with the 5/16 pins ran in various smaller diameters, even have one in my cue case that was like My 3rd or 4th cue, It's a 60" long cue with as low as an .828 joint, and seems to play fine like that, no issues with vibration or anything, so really whatever works for you is what I would suggest too. The woods used or type of construction could have some effect on vibration if going too small I suppose, but I haven"t run into that yet with any of the woods I've used personally.

I have felt cues on occasion that had a feel like a tuning fork when I hit with them, but then they didn't necessarily have a overly small joint either, so could have been more to It then just a small OD anyhow.

Like others have mentioned, Most important thing is If You like the feel. If You like the feel of Your cues then chances are others will too.





Greg
 
Great Job

Cudos for experimenting...I luv the fact that there are people still trying to push the envelope.

I had a protype made.... straight line taper in the wrap area...wrap centered on my hand other changes etc...I too had a smaller diiameter joint with a 5/16 pin.
I am currently having a new cue made slightly increasing that diameter and going to 3/8 10 plus changing the wood from Jarrah to Bacote.

Currently researching a new high performance carbon fiber composite for use in the new cue.

I will tell how it changes the cues feedback soon. (waiting is the hardest part)

P.S. I can't express enough how much I like my new taper in the handle
Hope your cue hits the mark also
 
Anyone Else?

CamposCues said:
I build mine .835 and have a lot of positive feedback from people about the thinner butt.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input guys,it's appreciated.I have come to really like the smaller butt also,somewhere in the 1.230 range.When I pick up a cue with the larger 1.250 butts it feels like a telephone pole.

Any more insights?

Jim
 
JimL said:
Thanks for the input guys,it's appreciated.I have come to really like the smaller butt also,somewhere in the 1.230 range.When I pick up a cue with the larger 1.250 butts it feels like a telephone pole.

Any more insights?

Jim
Click to expand...

I like mine with 3 angles with 1.225-1.235 bottom.
But, the front 14 is fat with at least .850" joint size.
The taper is not parabolic like SW but not a single or dual taper either.
Just a little different that I have to turn the butt around on final pass with my cnc taperer. Requires a little more work but I like a skinny grip too as I think they have more feedback. I like a fat forearm and fat A-joint section as well.
 
i build mine .820-.830 depending on the type and strength of wood in the forearm but i have a fat a-joint say 1.050-1.060 to make up for it.i like the action and feel better on cues with a skinnier joint and with a fat a-joint there is no whippiness at all.for the back i like it between 1.23-1.24.
 
masonh said:
i build mine .820-.830 depending on the type and strength of wood in the forearm but i have a fat a-joint say 1.050-1.060 to make up for it.i like the action and feel better on cues with a skinnier joint and with a fat a-joint there is no whippiness at all.for the back i like it between 1.23-1.24.
Click to expand...


Thanks Mason,those numbers are very similiar to what I've been achieving. I've also been experimenting with phenolic inserts at the A joint for added strength.Anyone have any thoughts or experience with this?

Jim
 
I have a Bender sneaky pete with a joint diameter of .780 (one of ten sneakys made by Mike in the early 90's). I ordered a new shaft from Ed Young, who couldn't believe the joint was that skinny, so I sent the butt to be matched up with the shaft. Due to some unusual circumstances, the shaft wound up being made by Dave Kersenbrock. The cue with the DPK shaft is not whippy at, even with a fairly long taper. The Bender shaft's spine lines up perfectly with the butt spine, and this combo is not whippy either and, in fact, is rather stiff.
:p
 
rayjay said:
I have a Bender sneaky pete with a joint diameter of .780 (one of ten sneakys made by Mike in the early 90's). I ordered a new shaft from Ed Young, who couldn't believe the joint was that skinny, so I sent the butt to be matched up with the shaft. Due to some unusual circumstances, the shaft wound up being made by Dave Kersenbrock. The cue with the DPK shaft is not whippy at, even with a fairly long taper. The Bender shaft's spine lines up perfectly with the butt spine, and this combo is not whippy either and, in fact, is rather stiff.
:p
Click to expand...

Great info,thanks. I've actually made a couple that are at or below the .800 mark and they aren't whippy either imo.They are one's that I've used the phenolic at the a joint & also at the pin. Thats part of what I'm wondering here, if the phenolic is a major part of the equation.

I know some people will tell me to do my own homework I'm just trying to take advantage of others experience so I don't spend to much time going down a dead end.

Jim
 
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