Most poolrms have at least one or two tables that have neen shimmed up, while the rest feature probably 5 inch pockets. Years ago I played 3-c in a room owned by a pro-player - we discussed changes re 3-c - the fast Euro style cloth ,rails etc and also shimmed up pool tables - and he said that the fast style cloth, rails in 3-c made it easier to score (he did not like it as a 3-c player - preffered nap style cloth) - but the easier it is for customers to score points the happier they are and that goes for pool also and happy customers always come back!!.
Tight Tables
- Thread starter Johnnyt
- Start date
atthecat said:
I have had my Diamond Pro with 4 1/4 pockets now for about two years. I have gotten so used to the tight pockets that I forget they are tight. Playing 3 times a week max, it took me about a year to feel this way. Now the only thing I work on is, like you said, is just to relax, or you will be punished
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The length of the lane may be the same, but the conditions of that lane change from lane to lane, and day to day. Each house will have different oil patterns. This will affect the trajectory of the ball as it travels down the lane. Just like pool players have to adjust to different cushions and cloth, bowlers need to adjust their game to the lane conditioning.
It takes 4 things to standardize pockets, the pocket openings, the pocket angles, the pocket down angles, and the slate shelf. The bottom line is "Fair pockets", as in not hard, and not easy! A pocket opening of 4" with parallel pocket facings is a smaller target, not a tighter pocket. With pockets cut like that, the ball is either in or out, but won't hang a ball in the pocket, that's not tight, it's just a small target. I changed a Diamond 9ft ProAm table up at the Golden Fleece pool room in Washington state to 3 7/8th's corner pockets, and 4 3/8th's side pockets, but I DIDN'T change the pocket angles to face each other, I left them at the 51 degree funnel openings, THAT'S a tight table. It was easy at first, until the cloth broke in NOW..it's just a one pocket table, because it's to hard to play 9ball on, god would have a hard time running a rack of 9ball on this table
so when you'all say tight pockets, it all depends on the conditions, as very few tables are tightened the same, sometimes even by the same person doing the work. I can't tell you how many times I've seen tight pocket tables...that no 2 corner pockets are the same...on the same table!
Glen
NOW..it's just a one pocket table, because it's to hard to play 9ball on, god would have a hard time running a rack of 9ball on this table so when you'all say tight pockets, it all depends on the conditions, as very few tables are tightened the same, sometimes even by the same person doing the work. I can't tell you how many times I've seen tight pocket tables...that no 2 corner pockets are the same...on the same table!Glen
For all of you who have tightened up the pockets on your tables, take an adjustable leg protractor and adjust it to the opening of the first corner pocket from tit to tit, then take the protractor and compare that reading to the other 3 corner pockets, you'll see what I mean...:grin:
Glen
Glen
Aaron_S said:
For rotation games in which agressive play is what 9-ball is all about, a player that gets on the wrong side of the ball thats next to be pocketed, should be able to realistically go the other way around...or duck or??, use extreme follow or english or whatever to get shape and run out. When the design of a table completely takes away this option and forces saftey play, then the equipment is changing the game, and this is not acceptable to the sport of 9-ball. In the old days, watching Sigel make an agressive cut and come around 7 rails for shape and run out is goosebump material, and I've seen many an opponent fold because of raw pocketing agressive play. Maybe the PGA should make the tee boxes smaller and the cup size on the greens smaller to make golf even more difficult...wrong.
I was lucky enough to play nineball on that table when it was still fresh.
Dave doesn't like to let people play nineball on that table, but I did get to when it was still relatively fresh after you tightening it up. I was able to run a rack of nineball on it then, and I ran eight and out in one pocket on it when playing Dan Louie. It's tight, but I tend to like the way it plays better than a standard diamond.
Of course, I'm used to playing on a tight table since my home table has 4" corners.
Jaden
realkingcobra said:It takes 4 things to standardize pockets, the pocket openings, the pocket angles, the pocket down angles, and the slate shelf. The bottom line is "Fair pockets", as in not hard, and not easy! A pocket opening of 4" with parallel pocket facings is a smaller target, not a tighter pocket. With pockets cut like that, the ball is either in or out, but won't hang a ball in the pocket, that's not tight, it's just a small target. I changed a Diamond 9ft ProAm table up at the Golden Fleece pool room in Washington state to 3 7/8th's corner pockets, and 4 3/8th's side pockets, but I DIDN'T change the pocket angles to face each other, I left them at the 51 degree funnel openings, THAT'S a tight table. It was easy at first, until the cloth broke in
Glen
Dave doesn't like to let people play nineball on that table, but I did get to when it was still relatively fresh after you tightening it up. I was able to run a rack of nineball on it then, and I ran eight and out in one pocket on it when playing Dan Louie. It's tight, but I tend to like the way it plays better than a standard diamond.
Of course, I'm used to playing on a tight table since my home table has 4" corners.
Jaden
The end of rail angle seems to be critical with tight pockets. If I cant fire a ball down the rail without it being spit out I will find a better table.
That table IS the tightest pocketed Diamond I know of, deep slate shelves and allJaden said:
Glen
mosconiac said:
With darts its the same for novice and pro as far as I know. In bowling it is much different between novice and pro because they have different oil patterns. For a novice the oil pattern is even across the lane. For a pro they have I think 6 different oil patterns with different amounts of oil and conditioner across the width and length of the lane.
PBA oil patterns
I bowled the pro patterns over the summer and believe me there is a huge difference.
True. Opponents play a match on the same board so conditions are equal.gunzby said:
The only specs that may be off are the throw line distance and height from floor to bullseye.
One mark of better players is the ability to quickly and consistently adjust their throw to the specs of the board.
I'm a fan of 4 1/2 inch pockets on diamonds because none of them seem to play gaffy. If you hit it good, even if you warp it in it will go.
I currently have an older 8' Brunswick Monarch in my poolroom (garage) that has pockets that are 4 1/2" in the back and 5 1/4" in the front with a shelf that is not very deep and this table will accept many shots that a lot of tables simply won't accept. I've found that my kids (17,14 and 4 yr old boys) and their friends enjoy playing on this table much more than the previous table I had (a 7' Valley bar box with slightly shimmed pockets).
When I want to practice by myself, I'll put in pocket reducers.
I have a buddy who has an Olhausen pro cut 8' table at his house and his pockets are tight and the shelf is deep and you'd better not over-cheat a pocket or hit too hard on that table or it will spit the ball out like a red-neck spits out expensive caviar. :grin: Although his table is nice, I really don't care to play on it too much as I don't play on any tables elsewhere that are so unforgiving and it can be a little frustrating at times. Don't get me wrong, I've run out many racks on his table and it feels great to have your game at a level that you can do that on a table like that. I can see the advantages to playing on a table like that, it makes all other tables you encounter seem like child's play.
When I want to practice by myself, I'll put in pocket reducers.
I have a buddy who has an Olhausen pro cut 8' table at his house and his pockets are tight and the shelf is deep and you'd better not over-cheat a pocket or hit too hard on that table or it will spit the ball out like a red-neck spits out expensive caviar. :grin: Although his table is nice, I really don't care to play on it too much as I don't play on any tables elsewhere that are so unforgiving and it can be a little frustrating at times. Don't get me wrong, I've run out many racks on his table and it feels great to have your game at a level that you can do that on a table like that. I can see the advantages to playing on a table like that, it makes all other tables you encounter seem like child's play.