Using the lights for aiming
- Thread starter bbb
- Start date
So if you play on a table with a couple burnt out lights or one that is near a window and the sun is shining in on the table....then what?
Lights, shadows, 90/90, CTE, "fractions", etc., etc. all seem to be popular with the same players. IMO this is no coincidence.
They're all "psychological" aiming systems, which means if they work for you it's not because the lights, shadows or CB/OB alignments actually get you to the exact aim you need. They may get you within shouting distance of the aim you need, but more importantly they get you to a frame of mind that allows your "subconscious aiming system" to complete the task.
Many players who use one or more of these systems (some use all of them) shoot incredibly well. Other players who use none of these systems also shoot incredibly well. I don't know if one way or the other is better.
pj
chgo
Laugh, giggle and point, but I was shown this system by a strong, older local guy that was Buddy Halls running partner for years. He said that it originated in old pool halls and bars that were very dimly lit and the ball edges were tough to make out.
He told me that this technique was the reason for the phrase "Shooting the lights out" on a pool table.
It DOES work, and have seen a few in this area use this technique.
Ken
He told me that this technique was the reason for the phrase "Shooting the lights out" on a pool table.
It DOES work, and have seen a few in this area use this technique.
Ken
LOL. I use this system all the time, but only when I'm seeing an odd number of OBs (otherwise there's no middle one)...
pj
chgo
NOTE: I'm not an advocate of the system. I'm not a user of the system. But, here's a post of mine from another light-aiming thread:
The only way the light stuff won't work is if you have a light source that doesn't make a shape.
It doesn't matter if there is 1 bulb, 2, 3 or 4 bulbs--- nor does it matter how many long fluorescent bulbs there are. It also doesn't matter if the bulbs are perfectly centered or not.
What does matter is your ability to perceive the "shape" of the light--- it's horizontal limits and its vertical limits. If you can't read the shape, you're digging where there are no taters, for sure.
To bank: Either inside/outside edge of CB reflection to center OB reflection (depending on angle)
To pocket: Either inside/outside edge of CB reflection to either OB reflection edge (depending on angle)
---
Like I said, there are SOOOOO many better ways to aim I couldn't fathom shooting at lights and shadows. But, you wanted to know so here it is.
Dave
The only way the light stuff won't work is if you have a light source that doesn't make a shape.
It doesn't matter if there is 1 bulb, 2, 3 or 4 bulbs--- nor does it matter how many long fluorescent bulbs there are. It also doesn't matter if the bulbs are perfectly centered or not.
What does matter is your ability to perceive the "shape" of the light--- it's horizontal limits and its vertical limits. If you can't read the shape, you're digging where there are no taters, for sure.
To bank: Either inside/outside edge of CB reflection to center OB reflection (depending on angle)
To pocket: Either inside/outside edge of CB reflection to either OB reflection edge (depending on angle)
---
Like I said, there are SOOOOO many better ways to aim I couldn't fathom shooting at lights and shadows. But, you wanted to know so here it is.
Dave
Or if approximate aiming guides are not what you need.
pj
chgo
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FYI, Bob Jewett has an article on this topic here:
Regards,
Dave
I've been using the light (shadow) system for aiming for about 2 years now and it works great for me and really helped me with making some critical shots that helped me won some of the local tournament in Queens,NY. I think there are some confusion with how the system is used but it comes down to knowing 4 reference aims and from your practice and experience you'll know right away where to aim your cue tip at the object ball. I would say it 70% of the angle shots are based on the one very accurate aim point without having to pivot your cue (90/90 works just as well).
This system work as long as there's light (doesn't make which light etc)...probably wouldn't help you if you're playing in the dark.
Regards,
Duc.
This system work as long as there's light (doesn't make which light etc)...probably wouldn't help you if you're playing in the dark.
Regards,
Duc.
No lights/shadows system (or other approximate aiming system) works without adjustment for 70% of shots. It might feel like it does (and maybe that's why it works for some), but it's not really happening.
Sorry to beat the same old dead horse, but as long as these misleading statements keep being made AzB readers need to hear that they're misleading.
pj
chgo
All I know for sure is that it is never good to stare into the lights for extended periods of time.
:grin-square:Regards,
Dave
If it works for me, it works for me. Beat off all the horses you want, but if it works, sign me up.
The point of aim is the same for me on most of my shots...especially angle shots to the side pocket. There is a physical point that I'm aiming at so it now really based on feel/estimate of where I'm shooting at like the ghost ball. Your brain is able to better execute a shot when it has a visual reference point as suppose to an invisible ghost ball or estimate on the spot to hit at on the object ball.
The aim point is my main reference and what I aim at on most of my shots but you'll get to a point where it's almost automatic as you get down that you don't have to aim as your already know the reference point so the aim is instinctive. I've been at this process long enough now that I don't even aim anymore and recognize where I'm suppose to shoot when I get down on my shot. On shot where I'm under pressure or extreme cut, I normally line up the aim to double check.
I think the main reason why these aiming works for some and not other is because some of these players can't seen to find their center on a cue ball. If you can't hit center ball (not easy) then no system is going to be able to help you until you can. Here's a photo to show my aim point (Just works for me):
My aim point, is the intersection of the dark circular shadow against the object ball. This point of aim forms a parallel channel to the desired pocket. This shadow (start point on the channel) deviate as the angle become more extreme then it to the edge of the ball. To be more accurate on these angles, you should line up the shot dead center, find the shadow/object ball intersection, then watch the deviation as you move back to your cue ball to validate if the edge aim point can be used. The pocket is big enough that you don't have to be 100% precise on most table. The edge of the ball can be used for 2 reference aim shot....(center to edge) or (Edge to Edge). These are great reference aim points for me to use. You can use any other systems to validate and confirm you aim point....when I started using the shadow, I confirmed most of the aim point with Ron's pivot system. I figure, if it going to the same point of aim, doesn't matter how you do it as long as the cue ball get there....so there reference points works for me.
Regards,
Duc.
The aim point is my main reference and what I aim at on most of my shots but you'll get to a point where it's almost automatic as you get down that you don't have to aim as your already know the reference point so the aim is instinctive. I've been at this process long enough now that I don't even aim anymore and recognize where I'm suppose to shoot when I get down on my shot. On shot where I'm under pressure or extreme cut, I normally line up the aim to double check.
I think the main reason why these aiming works for some and not other is because some of these players can't seen to find their center on a cue ball. If you can't hit center ball (not easy) then no system is going to be able to help you until you can. Here's a photo to show my aim point (Just works for me):
My aim point, is the intersection of the dark circular shadow against the object ball. This point of aim forms a parallel channel to the desired pocket. This shadow (start point on the channel) deviate as the angle become more extreme then it to the edge of the ball. To be more accurate on these angles, you should line up the shot dead center, find the shadow/object ball intersection, then watch the deviation as you move back to your cue ball to validate if the edge aim point can be used. The pocket is big enough that you don't have to be 100% precise on most table. The edge of the ball can be used for 2 reference aim shot....(center to edge) or (Edge to Edge). These are great reference aim points for me to use. You can use any other systems to validate and confirm you aim point....when I started using the shadow, I confirmed most of the aim point with Ron's pivot system. I figure, if it going to the same point of aim, doesn't matter how you do it as long as the cue ball get there....so there reference points works for me.
Regards,
Duc.
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Well, I think the shadow is doing the adjustment for you...so NO adjustment on your part is needed. . You can easily validate, watch how the shadow move as you walk around the object ball. No magic...it's just a pretty accurate reference points. Again...if you're a player that can't hit center ball...it's not going to help you. But once your stroke gets better...you'll find that it help you pocket some really nice shots.
Regards,
Duc.
. You can easily validate, watch how the shadow move as you walk around the object ball. No magic...it's just a pretty accurate reference points. Again...if you're a player that can't hit center ball...it's not going to help you. But once your stroke gets better...you'll find that it help you pocket some really nice shots. Regards,
Duc.
Perfectly said and 100% agree.
someone showed this to me a long time ago. you line up the lights on the cue ball to the lights on the objectball until they make a straight line. its very easy although i dont know what the story is with the diamond lights. If you have been playing pool long enough, you know where you have to hit the ball. Keep it simple. If your missing then work on your alignment and aproach. i wouldnt try to use the light system.
It works, and works very well. I was shown this when I was a kid learning the game & it's stuck with me ever since. It doesn't matter how many lights there are or where they are located, every light in the room corresponds to the geometry of the table by reflecting off the balls. I don't know anything about the physics involved so I can't explain it, but I can say for my own personal certainty that it is absolute. Yeah it sounds crazy & folklorish but it's not.
I will note that the light reflections are merely aiming points. Like any bank shot, the accuracy is dependent upon spin, speed, etc. and still requires a skilled & knowledgeable player to execute. All the lighting does is remove the knowing where to aim factor.
I will note that the light reflections are merely aiming points. Like any bank shot, the accuracy is dependent upon spin, speed, etc. and still requires a skilled & knowledgeable player to execute. All the lighting does is remove the knowing where to aim factor.