What´s this pocket real size?
- Thread starter Espartaco_7
- Start date
Thank you.
I agree...and think that facing on the R) side is gonna be no fun.
No fun at all :grin:
The way most people measure size (including BCA's) is wrong...
because both openings are important, but they try to get away with measuring just one.
If you use just one measurement (at the points) you don't get a true idea of the pocket's difficulty.
If it's 5 inches between the points, and 4 inches at the back, the pocket isn't too bad.
If it's 5 inches between the points, and 3 inches at the back, you'd almost never make a ball.
To get a better picture, you need both measurements.
If you want to be technical, you also want to measure the shelf depth.
Roger Long came up with a good formula
to figure out the true difficulty of a table.
OPENING X THROAT ÷ SHELF = RATING
I think a typical unshimmed gold crown might give a rating around 16-17.
A basic diamond would be around 13.
Anything near 10 or less is brutal.
I modified his diagram a little to hopefully make it clearer.
because both openings are important, but they try to get away with measuring just one.
If you use just one measurement (at the points) you don't get a true idea of the pocket's difficulty.
If it's 5 inches between the points, and 4 inches at the back, the pocket isn't too bad.
If it's 5 inches between the points, and 3 inches at the back, you'd almost never make a ball.
To get a better picture, you need both measurements.
If you want to be technical, you also want to measure the shelf depth.
Roger Long came up with a good formula
to figure out the true difficulty of a table.
OPENING X THROAT ÷ SHELF = RATING
I think a typical unshimmed gold crown might give a rating around 16-17.
A basic diamond would be around 13.
Anything near 10 or less is brutal.
I modified his diagram a little to hopefully make it clearer.
The way most people measure size (including BCA's) is wrong...
because both openings are important, but they try to get away with measuring just one.
If you use just one measurement (at the points) you don't get a true idea of the pocket's difficulty.
If it's 5 inches between the points, and 4 inches at the back, the pocket isn't too bad.
If it's 5 inches between the points, and 3 inches at the back, you'd almost never make a ball.
To get a better picture, you need both measurements.
If you want to be technical, you also want to measure the shelf depth.
Roger Long came up with a good formula
to figure out the true difficulty of a table.
OPENING X THROAT ÷ SHELF = RATING
I think a typical unshimmed gold crown might give a rating around 16-17.
A basic diamond would be around 13.
Anything near 10 or less is brutal.
I modified his diagram a little to hopefully make it clearer.
Nice find Creedo... Green for you!!!
Well my GCII table comes in at 13.5
I wanted RKC to make it as close to a diamond as possible. If it had another .25 inch on the shelf it would be just right. I wanted the corners at 4.25 but he told me with the Brunswick shelf the table will actually play easier because there will be even less shelf behind the opening.
There are also other metrics of the pocket that influence it's play. Facing material is one, and the down angles of the pocket sides are another.
The down angles (as explained to me) can be adjusted to either funnel a ball towards the back of the pocket or not by keeping the ball from climbing up the sides of the pocket as it rebounds off the facing.
I wanted RKC to make it as close to a diamond as possible. If it had another .25 inch on the shelf it would be just right. I wanted the corners at 4.25 but he told me with the Brunswick shelf the table will actually play easier because there will be even less shelf behind the opening.
There are also other metrics of the pocket that influence it's play. Facing material is one, and the down angles of the pocket sides are another.
The down angles (as explained to me) can be adjusted to either funnel a ball towards the back of the pocket or not by keeping the ball from climbing up the sides of the pocket as it rebounds off the facing.
I agree. At least 4 1/4". Johnnyt
If that formula is correct than that makes my 10' table an 8. And it is very hard to play. Gonna take one shim out when I rework the rails
You payed waaaaay to much attention, I can see now I didn't charge you enough:thumbup:
I have never seen the chart for pocket as listed previously.
I have a Legacy table that has a big opening, in the front of the pocket. 5",,but the table is not what I would call easy. It has a big shelf,,1 1/2" and 4" width in the back of the pocket.
According to the chart it is considered tough!! About the middle at 13.3.
That 5" opening fools ya,,,because of the big shelf , a ball that hits inside the opening can also hit the inside of the (end) of the opposite rail . And spit it right back out!!
It happens allot,,especially if there is any speed on the ball.
I have played 4" and 41/2" pockets. When just measuring the front openings. And they played the same or easier than my table.
But I believe the ball gets spit out for different reasons,,as far a where it hits the rail. The tighter pocket ,,the ball hits the tip of the rail and kicked out,,(and never was really in the pocket opening)the bigger opening pocket,,the ball goes inside the opening ,,hits the end of opposite rail and is spit out.
I always thought something was a mis about this 5" table playing me so hard.lol This clears it up.
I have a Legacy table that has a big opening, in the front of the pocket. 5",,but the table is not what I would call easy. It has a big shelf,,1 1/2" and 4" width in the back of the pocket.
According to the chart it is considered tough!! About the middle at 13.3.
That 5" opening fools ya,,,because of the big shelf , a ball that hits inside the opening can also hit the inside of the (end) of the opposite rail . And spit it right back out!!
It happens allot,,especially if there is any speed on the ball.
I have played 4" and 41/2" pockets. When just measuring the front openings. And they played the same or easier than my table.
But I believe the ball gets spit out for different reasons,,as far a where it hits the rail. The tighter pocket ,,the ball hits the tip of the rail and kicked out,,(and never was really in the pocket opening)the bigger opening pocket,,the ball goes inside the opening ,,hits the end of opposite rail and is spit out.
I always thought something was a mis about this 5" table playing me so hard.lol This clears it up.