1pRoscoe said:
That's odd, because I have made several Qs from blanks I bought from Joel that were Birdseye forearms with Ebony full spliced points. This was inturn spliced into a short Maple handle. Is this not a 1/2 spliced blank?...JER
What is a "blank"?
- Thread starter JimS
- Start date
That's odd, because I have made several Qs from blanks I bought from Joel that were Birdseye forearms with Ebony full spliced points. This was inturn spliced into a short Maple handle. Is this not a 1/2 spliced blank?...JER
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
Once again, terminology rears its ugly head.
I wouldn't call that a half-splice.
Me, and everybody I know use half-splice to describe
a forearm in which the point wood 'ends' where the front wood does.
Picture a house cue cut in half at the end of the maple.
AISYK - this is not a splice at all, but a sort of lamination
done at an angle.
I have long thought the term 'true splice', which it always is,
is better than fullsplice, which it often isn't.
Dale
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
If it started as a full-splice, then it's a full-splice. If it was short (as in a maple into ebony, at 16-17" or so), then it's a short full-splice. According to Burton Spain's Making Blanks, that would be a "shorty blank" or a "short blank." And of course, the terminology makes sense.
According to Burton Spain's Making Blanks, a "half-splice blank" is the one that you know as inlaying squares into separate V grooves.
Fred
Hi,
Can Joel and John davis new full splice blank be called the traditional "full splice"? Or should it be called double or triple splice? Traditional full splice has only one splice with the base wood. I know John still make the traditional full splice if you request it but when it's splice again, does the original terminlogy for "Full Splice" remain..which I thought refer to the traditional full splice blank.
Btw, thanks for the information on the full, short and half splice terminology.
Regards,
Duc.
Can Joel and John davis new full splice blank be called the traditional "full splice"? Or should it be called double or triple splice? Traditional full splice has only one splice with the base wood. I know John still make the traditional full splice if you request it but when it's splice again, does the original terminlogy for "Full Splice" remain..which I thought refer to the traditional full splice blank.
Btw, thanks for the information on the full, short and half splice terminology.
Regards,
Duc.
The "full" in full-splice has nothing to do with the length. It describes the splice. I thought that would be obvious, but maybe not.Cuemaster98 said:
There are many many many cues out there made from Burton Spain full-splice blanks that have another splice aside from the V/Finger splice.
Fred
dmgwalsh said:What is the difference between John Davis full splice blanks and the full splice blanks sold by you?
I bought one of yours recently and I have several JDs.
John has added a second full-splice at the handle (usually maple) to keep the weight off the back end. This second splice was common with Balabushka for the Maple into Ebony full-splice cues (Spain points), though George didn't do a full-splice under the wrap that I know of. He did that Bushka buzz ring. But same thing; it kept the weight off the rear end by not using a full-length ebony splice.
The second full-splice from John Davis is shallower (V fingers are shorter) compared to the long full-spliced points. There are photos of them on the net, and in the InsidePOOL Magazine issue with Davis.
Fred
The "full" in full-splice has nothing to do with the length. It describes the splice. I thought that would be obvious, but maybe not.
There are many many many cues out there made from Burton Spain full-splice blanks that have another splice aside from the V/Finger splice.
Fred
Hi Fred, according to the definition of full splice that you describe in the previous post, it sound like a blank is called "full splice" as long as it has the long v/finger splice with the base wood to the full length of the blank, but if it a full splice to only 16-17" then it called a "Shorty Full Splice". If this is the case, then the new blanks that Joel H and JD developed to reduce weigh should called a "Shorty Full Splice".
As another type of splice is used to add the lighter wood and that splice is not a true full splice. Please let me know is that is technically correct?
Regards,
Duc.
There are many many many cues out there made from Burton Spain full-splice blanks that have another splice aside from the V/Finger splice.
Fred
Hi Fred, according to the definition of full splice that you describe in the previous post, it sound like a blank is called "full splice" as long as it has the long v/finger splice with the base wood to the full length of the blank, but if it a full splice to only 16-17" then it called a "Shorty Full Splice". If this is the case, then the new blanks that Joel H and JD developed to reduce weigh should called a "Shorty Full Splice".
As another type of splice is used to add the lighter wood and that splice is not a true full splice. Please let me know is that is technically correct?
Regards,
Duc.
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What is the difference between John Davis full splice blanks and the full splice blanks sold by you?
I bought one of yours recently and I have several JDs.
John's full splice is custom made and our is production made by a CNC manchine to our spec. When a blank is custom made by hand, the maker can usually select various combination of woods and add custom veneers of your choice. The custom process for making full splice blank is tedious and time consuming so the price for them is well reflected and deserved in both John and Joel's work. We don't try to compare our blanks to Joel H or John D, although we can say that most of our blanks are just as good in quality. The only drawback to our blanks is that we only have 11 models, we hope to expand our product line in the future. We have very high quality birdeye that are sent from Canada and the rosewood,ebony,purple and cocobola are sourced by our manufacturer. We hope to bring more variety and more popular veneer and wood combination...so keep an eye out for us in the new year. Most of our blanks are purchased by new builders and seasoned builders and we have seen some amazing work thus far that are made from our blanks.
Here's an image of one that will be up for sale shortly on ebay.
Regards,
Duc.
I bought one of yours recently and I have several JDs.
John's full splice is custom made and our is production made by a CNC manchine to our spec. When a blank is custom made by hand, the maker can usually select various combination of woods and add custom veneers of your choice. The custom process for making full splice blank is tedious and time consuming so the price for them is well reflected and deserved in both John and Joel's work. We don't try to compare our blanks to Joel H or John D, although we can say that most of our blanks are just as good in quality. The only drawback to our blanks is that we only have 11 models, we hope to expand our product line in the future. We have very high quality birdeye that are sent from Canada and the rosewood,ebony,purple and cocobola are sourced by our manufacturer. We hope to bring more variety and more popular veneer and wood combination...so keep an eye out for us in the new year. Most of our blanks are purchased by new builders and seasoned builders and we have seen some amazing work thus far that are made from our blanks.
Here's an image of one that will be up for sale shortly on ebay.
Regards,
Duc.
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Cuemaster98 said:
I don't know what to call what JD is doing. THe Shorty that Burton Spain was famous for seemed to be 16-17" with just two pieces of wood (maple and ebony mostly, not counting the veneers), no handle. Davis is adding the handle wood. So, it's a full-splice forearm w/handle blank. I guess it needs a distinct cool name if it doesn't already have it.
Well... tough call. I think what John is doing at the second splice could be called a full-splice, but since it's not as sharp, I think just calling it a shallower V finger splice or something like that is both fair and accurate. A woodworker needs to chime in.
Also, I'm sure he also has full-length liket he rosewood and maple blank of old. Also, John's aren't all maple and ebony (as seen by several photos, especially TATE's site) .
http://www.palmercollector.com/JohnDavis.html
So, he might not always do this specifically for weight, but maybe just for a consistent process or more consistent feel with the entire assembled stick in mind?
I don't know what Joel does.
Fred <~~~ needs to interview Joel
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Hi Fred,
I think Joel, uses a butterfly splice with his handle...same concept but different splicing technique used again to achieve the same objective. I think both Joel and JD can make the old splice blank on request.
Regards,
Duc.
I think Joel, uses a butterfly splice with his handle...same concept but different splicing technique used again to achieve the same objective. I think both Joel and JD can make the old splice blank on request.
Regards,
Duc.
Nice picture of Joel's work. As you can probably see in the pic, Joel does a butterfly splice join for the based wood first and then he use the based wood to make the full splice....that's why you see the veneers cutting into the handle wood. The construction is definitely a full splice but this method allow Joel to combine any based woods thus giving him more flexibility as you can joint any kind of wood...even Amboyna Burl for points (cored of course). These based wood has to be square when they are joined with the forearm. I guess it's a little more work to add the additional short splice but I personally perfer the original full splice.
Regards,
Duc.
Regards,
Duc.
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