What's with all these different pins and joints?

[Grilled Cheese]

That's why some 5/16 14 are piloted.
They have so much slop.
The pilot keeps it tight.

Gina has been using 5/16 18 flat face for ages.

So does Meucci. I don't consider those very tight.

My Randy Mobley has a 5/16 14 flat face and that is tight. No pilot.

I suppose implementation makes a bigger difference.


I've seen some piloted joints that really do square things up...and a majority of piloted that are just for show.

 

[StraightPoolIU]

I really have no preference when it comes to pins, but I generally like a SS joint due to the way it forward balances the cue.

My biggest gripe is with quick release pins and specifically ones that are proprietary to a certain maker or company. They serve absolutely no purpose. As someone else stated why in the hell do I need to save 2 or 3 seconds while putting my cue together. I love my Pechauer, but there are times where their proprietary quick release joint doesn't feel as solid as it should and has come loose on me once or twice.

Also, it's a pain in the ass to try to find any aftermarket shafts for it. OB makes them so I play with their pro+ shaft, but maybe someday I'd like to buy a Revo but to do so I'll probably have to buy a new cue.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[JoeyInCali]

So does Meucci. I don't consider those very tight.

My Randy Mobley has a 5/16 14 flat face and that is tight. No pilot.

I suppose implementation makes a bigger difference.


I've seen some piloted joints that really do square things up...and a majority of piloted that are just for show.

5/16 18 is considered as unified national COARSE thread.
5/16 24 is the fine one at that size
A 14 thread would be coarser and sloppier.

http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-tap-standard.htm

 

[RiverCity]

Coarse or fine makes zero difference in the fit of how the threads mate together. That depends on how they are machined and the tolerances that are held.

If you tap an insert or use a prefab and then use a prefab pin, the possibility for slop is certainly there.

If you machine the parts to fit well, they will.

https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article - Screw Threads Design.pdf

As far as speed of assembly is concerned, I have always wondered why no one has used double lead threads. You can cut a double lead pin at 5 threads per inch, and end up with a 3/8 10 pin that assembles twice as fast (as in 5 complete turns for a 1" pin).

Insert would need to be live threaded as well for obvious reason.

 

[jimmyco]

Coarse or fine makes zero difference in the fit of how the threads mate together. That depends on how they are machined and the tolerances that are held.

If you tap an insert or use a prefab and then use a prefab pin, the possibility for slop is certainly there.

If you machine the parts to fit well, they will.

https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article - Screw Threads Design.pdf

As far as speed of assembly is concerned, I have always wondered why no one has used double lead threads. You can cut a double lead pin at 5 threads per inch, and end up with a 3/8 10 pin that assembles twice as fast (as in 5 complete turns for a 1" pin).

Insert would need to be live threaded as well for obvious reason.

That would leave some people with way too much time on their hands. They might do something crazy like invest in those pesky, time consuming joint protectors.

 

[RiverCity]

That would leave some people with way too much time on their hands. They might do something crazy like invest in those pesky, time consuming joint protectors.

Speaking of joint protectors, I am surprised the folks who sell "tip protectors"

Havent remarketed the 9/16" version as 'joint protectors' as well. :thumbup:

https://www.stockcap.com/store/short-caps.html

Wait for it, they will show up to market now. :rotflmao:

 

[JoeyInCali]

Coarse or fine makes zero difference in the fit of how the threads mate together. That depends on how they are machined and the tolerances that are held.

If you tap an insert or use a prefab and then use a prefab pin, the possibility for slop is certainly there.

If you machine the parts to fit well, they will.

https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article - Screw Threads Design.pdf

As far as speed of assembly is concerned, I have always wondered why no one has used double lead threads. You can cut a double lead pin at 5 threads per inch, and end up with a 3/8 10 pin that assembles twice as fast (as in 5 complete turns for a 1" pin).

Insert would need to be live threaded as well for obvious reason.

Which maker machines his own 5/16 14 inserts and screws ?
Bushka surely didn't.

Live threading a brass insert with 1/4 hole would be really fun.
How small of head would that thread mill have?

 

[RiverCity]

Which maker machines his own 5/16 14 inserts and screws ?
Bushka surely didn't.

Live threading a brass insert with 1/4 hole would be really fun.
How small of head would that thread mill have?

Big enough to get the job done, small enough to fit.

I take it that you have never ground special purpose cutting tools/boring bars etc out of hss endmills that are past sharpening or are chipped broken etc.

Not difficult to do.

However, the live threading the insert comment was about double lead threads, and as i said, "for obvious reason".

For cuemakers using brass inserts etc, tap the inserts, then turn the pins for whatever fit you want in the inserts. Again, not difficult. Just more time consuming than grabbing parts out of a bin.

 

[JoeyInCali]

Big enough to get the job done, small enough to fit.

I take it that you have never ground special purpose cutting tools/boring bars etc out of hss endmills that are past sharpening or are chipped broken etc.

Not difficult to do.

However, the live threading the insert comment was about double lead threads, and as i said, "for obvious reason".

For cuemakers using brass inserts etc, tap the inserts, then turn the pins for whatever fit you want in the inserts. Again, not difficult. Just more time consuming than grabbing parts out of a bin.

My live threader is specially ground so I can live thread up 1 7/8" deep.
Got a worn out one with .240" head.
Used that to live thread a phenolic insert to fit a Schuler for an extension.
Did not use brass.
Schuler has a short 5/16 14 sticking out and a long aluminum insert .

The slop/play is really in these small screws are really no biggie.
They have plenty of axial force and so long as the faces are square, they are good to go .

Used to see Johnny Archer shoot with a Schon. You'd catch him retightening the shaft ( could have been just a habit ) and that did not prevent him from winning titles .

 

[Michael Webb]

Which maker machines his own 5/16 14 inserts and screws ?
Bushka surely didn't.

Live threading a brass insert with 1/4 hole would be really fun.
How small of head would that thread mill have?

5/16x14? The biggest bastard screw of them all.
Ranges from .298x14 to .313 as a joint screw. I buy blank inserts 7/16x14 and drill, bore, and tap after it's in the shaft.

 

[bstroud]

No one has mentioned the 5/16-14 ACME that I used for a number of years.
It is in fact a standard thread form and I liked the way it polished up.

It also was a tighter fitting pin than the commonly used 5/16-14 other makers used.

I played with a cue with a Uniloc for years and liked it fine.
I now use a cue with a Radial and like it also.
I always liked a forward balance.

Bill S.

 

[Michael Webb]

No one has mentioned the 5/16-14 ACME that I used for a number of years.
It is in fact a standard thread form and I liked the way it polished up.

It also was a tighter fitting pin than the commonly used 5/16-14 other makers used.

I played with a cue with a Uniloc for years and liked it fine.
I now use a cue with a Radial and like it also.
I always liked a forward balance.

Bill S.

Morning Mr. Stroud
I was going to mention your acme but didn't want to confuse the situation more. I have seen it in two sizes. 5/16 and your standard approximate .323 o.d.

 

[Michael Webb]

Mr. Strouds acme on the right
.323x14 acme. On the left is the one's I had made at .320x14. It's ok but not what I commissioned to be made. I wanted the same size.

 

[bstroud]

Mike,

I had them made in Chi.
Will try to remember where.

Bill S.

 

[Bob Jewett]

I cant play worth a crap With an ivory joint, irrespective of the pin.

I always wondered why that is and have given it the ild clege try a few times.

If only you had gone to a college that had orthography instruction.:grin-square:

 

[Michael Webb]

Mike,

I had them made in Chi.
Will try to remember where.

Bill S.

Thank you Sir.
I am definately interested in having them in stock.

 

[jimmyco]

If only you had gone to a college that had orthography instruction.:grin-square:

Fat fingers. Great for plugging Dutch dikes. Typing and texting, not so much.

 

[Chopdoc]

Great thread.

Reminds me of the pin thread in the cue makers forum. I'll link it if I dig it up.

Basically a listing of all the known pins.

.

 

[WildWing]

Have to admit, I learned something from this thread. I thought the Acme pins were just 3/8 X 10, one of mine pictured. Didn't know there was a 5/16 X 14 Acme. Great info.

All the best,
WW

 

[M.G.]

Women also have different breast sizes and shapes - however you like them they've got em!
I assume it's the same with joints...