Why does old wood hit so good?

I cut & mill many of my own maple trees. I specialize in old growth, trees that are between 150yrs & 350yrs old. I have seen no correlation between age & tioghtness of grain, and will say from personal experience that it's simply not true. Old growth does not have tighter grain lines. The growing conditions of the tree are what determine this.

As for shaft wood, 90%+ of todays shaft suppliers are selling vacuum dried sapwood maple. Try to find the guys that don't sell the vacuum dried, and you'll have maybe 2 suppliers to choose from. Try finding some that sell heart wood shafts. You won't. It doesn't exist unless you specifically ask for it & then I know of only one supplier who will accomadate that request. Thus, I cut my own trees.

As for quarter sawing, that is done while the tree is wet so that as the lumber dries, the stress is alleviated. Flat sawn lumber will urge to curl up with the grain as it dries, which causes everything from warps to curls to cracks. Lengths are taken to prevent this such as banding the ends of the boards & weighting them down to hold them flat through the drying process. It doesn't matter what you do with the lumber once it's dry. If it was initially flat sawn, then it's gonna have internal stress. Sure you can resaw it to mimic quarter sawn lumber but it's a waste because this is something that has to be done BEFORE the lumber is dried. Any saw operator worth his own salt can explain this. It's ancient technology.

The point is, if there's any truth to old wood being better, then it's because of the age & with age comes stability. It's not because the grain is tighter. This past winter I cut a few logs. The smallest was birdseye & it was just barely 10" diameter. The tree had roughly 150-175 grain lines from bark to pith. It literally looks like a stack of paper. I'll get pics when I get it from the kiln. About 200 yards away was a veneer tree, very tall & perfectly straight with no visible defects. I cut it for shafts. It was only about 70 years old & had a range 0f 4-18 gpi. The birdseye tree was nearly all creamy sapwood while the shaft tree was mostly red heartwood. These trees came from the same virgin growth forest. It's a very clear testament to the characteristis of the wood being almost totally controlled by the growing conditions, nothing else. I cut four logs that day with varying characteristics. The only thing I could find to relate to their unique personalities was geographical position in which they grew. The birdseye was on the north side of the hill, on a narrow ridge top, growing under a canopy of giants. The veneer tree was growing near the bottom of the hill in a cradle/bowl between two high points. It was a very tall tree growing on a flat. I could draw the conclusion that the sun, soil & water were what controlled the vast differences in these trees, both sugar maple, both within a visible distance, both in the same ancient forest. I could easily argue that age has nothing to do with the wood. But I won't because I simply don't know for sure. Neither do scientists. So until somebody knows something & can undeniably prove it, it'll be speculation. With speculation comes mysticism. In this case, mysticism says old wood is better. I say BS. Prove it.
 
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I don't know but I do know that a lot of race engine builders will get a block in, tear it down to bare, degrease it and throw it into the back yard to 'weather' for a few years before they machine it into an engine again.

So, what does surface rust do that is good for cast iron?:confused: I have no idea, and perhaps they don't either. But, the point is, particularly in cue making, I don't think ANYTHING is too goofy...

I personally like the idea of using ancient wood for the shaft...:thumbup:

Iron castings and forgings used to be set out in the weather to let them stabilize. I don't think rust is the concept but the temperature and climate changes.

Here's a question most cuemakers have to answer...If there are two cues of similar make next to each other and one has a light color shaft and the other has a darker shaft, which one sells?
 
Eric, it's not science nor is it mystery. It is call FengShui. The Qi of the place determine the quality of the wood just as the Qi determines the qualityof life if the people living in a particar area.
 
Color of shaft

As far as I am concerned I could care less what the color of the shaft is, as long as it is straight and stays straight. I am somewhat surprised that cue buyers would care about it, after you have played enough it gets dirty and stained from chalk anyway. I guess it gets back to the old look at how pretty my cue is mantra. Personally the shaft color means nothing to me..
 
Watching this thread makes me think. Old wood is wood that was cut many years ago. Old growth is a old tree recently cut.

With the research I've done on Maple I've never heard a reason to believe a 250 year old tree cut and dried plays any better then a 60 year old tree cut and dried in the same manner.

Old wood would never see a kiln. At the time the tree was cut and milled kilns didn't exist or were not as common. The sap and moisture in the wood dried slowly and naturally.

I'd think most of the old cues we see in all these nice collections never saw a kiln.
 
Watching this thread makes me think. Old wood is wood that was cut many years ago. Old growth is a old tree recently cut.

With the research I've done on Maple I've never heard a reason to believe a 250 year old tree cut and dried plays any better then a 60 year old tree cut and dried in the same manner.

Old wood would never see a kiln. At the time the tree was cut and milled kilns didn't exist or were not as common. The sap and moisture in the wood dried slowly and naturally.

I'd think most of the old cues we see in all these nice collections never saw a kiln.

Here is what I consider important in using either air dried or Kiln dried wood. You take two squares, one of each, and turn them down. As the process evolves, if one of them moves, it is no good to me. Be it air or Kiln, the most stable is the one I want. Having a stock pile of 20 to 30 year old fronts, rears, blanks, dowels,and shafts one or two passes away from finish is my definition of old, seasoned wood. Wood that has aged patiently, knowing it's task ahead by already being turned, is wood that will make a cue like no other.
 
As for shaft wood, 90%+ of todays shaft suppliers are selling vacuum dried sapwood maple. Try to find the guys that don't sell the vacuum dried, and you'll have maybe 2 suppliers to choose from. Try finding some that sell heart wood shafts. You won't. It doesn't exist unless you specifically ask for it & then I know of only one supplier who will accomadate that request. Thus, I cut my own trees.
Do heartwoods move a little more than sapwood?
 
Do heartwoods move a little more than sapwood?


Other way around. The heart wood is more stable than the sap wood.

With some species, it is easy to tell heart from sap (by color); however with maple, it is often difficult to determine that line, particularly if it is harvested in (i think) winter months, when there is little to no sap running.

But, I could be wrong about harvesting time, but regardless, it is difficult to tell the line in maple.
 
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