wrapless cue care.

JXMIKE

JXMIKE

Aspiring Pro player
Silver Member
i have a wrapless cue now, and my next cue will be wrapless so my question is......


what wax should i use and what technique to condition the butt end.


Thanks.
 
Karseal Cue Wax rocks!

Now that's an easy one. This stuff is much better than the bowling alley wax that some guys are using. The bowling alley wax has stuff in it to make it sticky... so folks won't ball on their butts. This stuff is really great. I have several wrapless cues and use it from tip to bumper.

I even use it on my table rails, skirts and overhead light. :groucho:

http://www.poolndarts.com/index.cfm...AE2&Fuseaction=Catalog.Product&productID=5426
 
it makes no sence to put wax on a cue with a finish on it, on old Bushkas with no finish then you use wax to keep the wood good, when you have a finish on a cue it just needs to be wiped off clean-nothing else,
 
There is no need to do anything with the butt of a cue that has finish on it. Just dont ding or scratch it.
 
if you have kind of sweaty hands and you play everyday that plus chalk it will eventually need cleaned and sealed.
 
JXMIKE said:
if you have kind of sweaty hands and you play everyday that plus chalk it will eventually need cleaned and sealed.
Click to expand...

Well I am a roofer so you dont get hands that are much more dirty or sweaty than that. If the cue is dirty, then as it is sealed and water proof you can us a damp cloth and something like dawn or dove. They are light cleaners and wont affect the finish.
Make sure you dont get the inside of the joint wet.

Dont do this if you have an oil finish.
 
Both my cues are wrapless and I've never had to use anything on them. Just wipe it clean after you're done playing.
 
Most of my cues are wrapless. Here's from my post at http://www.poolfanatic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10608&page=3

sygfrid said:
Here's what I do:

FERRULE
*Cover the tip & wood part of the shaft. Brush the ferrule with moistened old toothbrush & toothpaste to remove dirt, then wipe dry

SHAFT
For regular maintenance, burnish & clean it at the same time with a SUEDE microfiber (Microtex)

When the shaft gets really dirty:
*I use a mircrofiber terry cloth and damp it with mild soap & water solution (cloth must be squeezed dry so as not to wet the shaft), & wipe it briskly onto the shaft not long enough to let moisture reach the shaft's core, which can lead to warpage.
*Then I burnish it quickly to remove the moisture instantly
*You may use Magic Eraser but make sure to squeeze it dry. You may need 2000+ grit sandpaper to smoothen it
*I'm not a fan of using alcohol since it's a foreign substance to wood and therefore may affect its molecular structure (trees live on water, not on alcohol). The mere fact that alcohol stings our skin when we have wounds, the effect may also be the same with wood

BUTT
Regular Maintenance:
*I use 2 terry cloth microfibers (California) to wipe the butt after the game. A damp microfiber to remove oil & dirt, and a dry one to dry it of course
*I apply a wax (3M Perfect-It or Mothers Carnauba) once a month to protect my cue butts from dirt and oxidation such as sweat

Quarterly Maintenance:
*Since all of my cue butts have automotive finish, I use a 3step detailing process, just like what I do with my car, to keep them shiny (I use MOTHERS):
1. Polish- removes oxidation from the finish & brings back that deep wet-look shine
2. Seal & Glaze- removes light scratches by filling them, and gives that candy-like gloss
3. Wax- protects steps 1&2 by acting as a sacrificial layer against dirt & oxidation (such as sweat)

NOTE Be careful of the type of cloth that you use on your cues especially on the butt. You'll notice that cloths have different weaves or loops. SUEDE microfibers are more suitable for burnishing but not polishing as it doesn't trap dirt well because of it's smoother weave, therefore it can scratch the finish if used on the cue butt. Terry cloth microfibers have bigger loops to trap dirt, hence suitable for polishing (and even washing cars). Also, don't use the same cloth on the butt as you do with the shaft as chalk from the shaft gets trapped on the cloth and if used on the butt, might act like a sandpaper and therefore ruin the butt's finish.

Hope this helps
Click to expand...
 
Fatboy said:
it makes no sence to put wax on a cue with a finish on it, on old Bushkas with no finish then you use wax to keep the wood good, when you have a finish on a cue it just needs to be wiped off clean-nothing else,
Click to expand...

I guess it makes no sense to wax a car either.

I believe that waxing my cue, and/or my car, with a good carnuba wax, like Karseal Q Wax, will protect the clear coat and make the finish slicker so I use wax. It makes sense to me. :groucho:
 
sygfrid said:
Most of my cues are wrapless. Here's from my post at http://www.poolfanatic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10608&page=3
Click to expand...


Excellent post.
I had often wondered if you could use car polish and sealer to good effect on a cue. IF you are going to do detailing like that then I have to admit waxing it makes sense.
Thanks for the info on the differences between micro fiber cloths as well.

Still I have never noticed any dirt or grime on the butts of my cues. Perhaps I just don't play as much as you guys. Or perhaps its the type of finish my builders are using.
 
JXMIKE said:
i have a wrapless cue now, and my next cue will be wrapless so my question is......


what wax should i use and what technique to condition the butt end.


Thanks.
Click to expand...

Remember that you are not protecting the WOOD, it has a clearcoat painted over it, that provides all of the protection it needs. You can use any cleaner that does not scratch the finish. On the Qs that I make, I recommend what I use on my personal Qs, PLEDGE...JER
 
Granted the finish really only needs wiping down to stay nice. But take a freshly polished cue off the lathe & set it next to a well used but well cared for cue & the new cue will look way brighter. It's chalk dust acting as a very fine abrasive over time & it dulls the finish, no matter how well you care for the cue. Waxing it every so often helps a lot at keeping looking new. But eventually it'll need repolished to look new again, given that by then it's not dinged up & needing refinish. It doesn't matter what finish is on the cue. Chalk is like fine sand paper & will dull anything given enough time.
 
My cuemaker

said to never use anything, but a wood polish on my cue, not a wax or oil.

BTW, Pledge is a wood polish.
 
qbilder said:
Granted the finish really only needs wiping down to stay nice. But take a freshly polished cue off the lathe & set it next to a well used but well cared for cue & the new cue will look way brighter. It's chalk dust acting as a very fine abrasive over time & it dulls the finish, no matter how well you care for the cue. Waxing it every so often helps a lot at keeping looking new. But eventually it'll need repolished to look new again, given that by then it's not dinged up & needing refinish. It doesn't matter what finish is on the cue. Chalk is like fine sand paper & will dull anything given enough time.
Click to expand...

In my attempts to stop this process I hold the cue upside down when I chalk it.. so the chalk dust falls to the floor as I apply chalk. It helps. It helps a lot. But it doesn't cure the problem.
 
Sev said:
Excellent post.
I had often wondered if you could use car polish and sealer to good effect on a cue. IF you are going to do detailing like that then I have to admit waxing it makes sense.
Thanks for the info on the differences between micro fiber cloths as well.

Still I have never noticed any dirt or grime on the butts of my cues. Perhaps I just don't play as much as you guys. Or perhaps its the type of finish my builders are using.
Click to expand...

Thanks!

Sometimes, only after you've cleaned the finish (whether from cars or from cues) with a polish that you'd see the dirt on the cleaning cloth. These are the oxidation and dirt that can't be removed from normal cleaning.

For automotive detailing, it's recommended to polish the finish at least 2x a year. Since the cues are not exposed to oxidation or harmful uv rays from the sun as much the cars do, I think you can polish the cues at least once a year. Sealing, Glazing, and Waxing can be done as often as you want. For me, I like the smooth feeling of a newly detailed cue so I detail mine quite often. Moreover, I get the benefits such as the deep gloss, brand-new look... Anitokid can attest to that as he has seen my set :smile:
 
JXMIKE said:
if you have kind of sweaty hands and you play everyday that plus chalk it will eventually need cleaned and sealed.
Click to expand...
Carry a small towel or washcloth and wipe it down periodically during play. Nothing more is really needed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top