wrapless cue care.

I have a wrapless and all I use is a small shot of Pledge. Make sure it is lemon scented and your cue will smell great all day.
Terry.
 
yeah, if it has a finish over, you don't have to do much. i like to use some rubbing alcohol sometimes to clean it, it takes off some of the grease and gunk pretty well
 
Snapshot9 said:
said to never use anything, but a wood polish on my cue, not a wax or oil.

BTW, Pledge is a wood polish.

Pledge is what I use. Works great. Normally I just wipe it down, but periodically a little pledge seems to bring it back to life. This was also on a cuemaker's recommendation.
 
You got right that bro!
Deep gloss with that brand-new look!
And I kid you not!

.

sygfrid said:
Thanks!

Sometimes, only after you've cleaned the finish (whether from cars or from cues) with a polish that you'd see the dirt on the cleaning cloth. These are the oxidation and dirt that can't be removed from normal cleaning.

For automotive detailing, it's recommended to polish the finish at least 2x a year. Since the cues are not exposed to oxidation or harmful uv rays from the sun as much the cars do, I think you can polish the cues at least once a year. Sealing, Glazing, and Waxing can be done as often as you want. For me, I like the smooth feeling of a newly detailed cue so I detail mine quite often. Moreover, I get the benefits such as the deep gloss, brand-new look... Anitokid can attest to that as he has seen my set :smile:
 
Fatboy said:
it makes no sence to put wax on a cue with a finish on it, on old Bushkas with no finish then you use wax to keep the wood good, when you have a finish on a cue it just needs to be wiped off clean-nothing else,
keep a 100% cotton rag in your case and wipe it off each time you use it. no need in wax. waste of time.
 
I regularly wipe down my cues with a micro fiber towel. Do not use a fabric softener when you wash these micro fiber towels, as it will make them abrasive!

Every now and again, I will polish my wrapless butts with Martin & Co. Guitar Polish, which is made by Guardsman. It contains NO waxes, just a special blend of natural and organic oils with cleaning emulsifiers. It is designed to work on all finish types, nourishing the finish, while the emulsifiers dissolve dirt and fingerprints. It comes in a 6 oz pump spray bottle, for roughly $6.00-$7.00. I have had my bottle for a very long time...and the stuff smells great! Works like a dream, is easy to use, and is safe for your cue's finish...aces in my book!!

Lisa
 

Attachments

  • OP052.jpg
    OP052.jpg
    19.8 KB · Views: 137
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
Remember that you are not protecting the WOOD, it has a clearcoat painted over it, that provides all of the protection it needs. You can use any cleaner that does not scratch the finish. On the Qs that I make, I recommend what I use on my personal Qs, PLEDGE...JER

I wipe my cue down with a dry washcloth after each session before I put it in the case and once in a while I hit it with a coat of Pledge.
 
If I'm not mistaken, wood polishes like PLEDGE are to be used on VARNISHED wood. Therefore, you might want to take a look first what kind of finish your cue has. If it has the modern automotive clear coat finish, then it's best recommended to use automotive product to maintain it as most of them are clear-coat safe (some products dull the finish/clear coat). If it has varnish, then perhaps pledge will be great for it. I haven't heard any detailer used Pledge on their clear-coated cars :)

Just my 2 cents...
 
Last edited:
sygfrid said:
If I'm not mistaken, wood polishes like PLEDGE are to be used on VARNISHED wood. Therefore, you might want to take a look first what kind of finish your cue has. If it has the modern automotive clear coat finish, then it's best recommended to use automotive product to maintain it as most of them are clear-coat safe (some products dull the finish/clear coat). If it has varnish, then perhaps pledge will be great for it. I haven't heard any detailer used Pledge on their clear-coated cars :)

Just my 2 cents...
Good point about the clear coat.
 
Well today i bought some mothers carunaba cleaner/wax and anybody that says it is a waste for time or unnecessary should try it out....

I laid out a long paper towel to keep my counter clean and then wet my microfiber and used sparringly (as directed) after 30 minutes it left a fog on the cue until i wiped it away with a microfiber towel and all i can say is wow , it looks even better then the day i bought it.

mothers carnuaba is great it says right on the can that its safe for clear coats which my cue has.

my cue shines under the pool table light and blinds my opponet.


this is a process that i will do every month along with shaft recondition and tip shaping.

thanks to sygfrid for the recomendation.
 
JXMIKE said:
Well today i bought some mothers carunaba cleaner/wax and anybody that says it is a waste for time or unnecessary should try it out....

I laid out a long paper towel to keep my counter clean and then wet my microfiber and used sparringly (as directed) after 30 minutes it left a fog on the cue until i wiped it away with a microfiber towel and all i can say is wow , it looks even better then the day i bought it.

mothers carnuaba is great it says right on the can that its safe for clear coats which my cue has.

my cue shines under the pool table light and blinds my opponet.


this is a process that i will do every month along with shaft recondition and tip shaping.

thanks to sygfrid for the recomendation.

Good for you :) Yeah, nothing shines like wax except for when the cue is initially polished. You never notice how dull your finish gets unless you are seeing freshly polished cues on a regular basis. Simple auto wax brings the shine right back looking new again, plus is a trap for the chalk dust & hand grit, so it catches that stuff before it can touch the clear coat finish. I agree that no wax is neccesary & that you only need to wipe the cue down with a rag to keep it clean. But keeping it looking new is a different story. But I see freshly finished cues on a regular basis so anything less than brilliant isn't good enough. I build them, finish them, polish them, and when my personal cues begin dulling from play, I wax them. There may not be a need for wax, but it certainly does not hurt, and there's no arguement from anybody who has tried it that it does put a new shine to the cue. As with everything, to each their own.
 
Back
Top