WWYD: Push out to where?
- Thread starter ktrepal85
- Start date
If I had to push out I'd push the 5 in front of the 9.
The push outer is pretty much always at a disadvantage, so making a finish harder is a reasonable decision.
Given the choice, I'd thin cut the 1 with heavy right english rail first, knocking the 1 toward the 4 ball and sending the CB to the other end of the table.
Colin
The push outer is pretty much always at a disadvantage, so making a finish harder is a reasonable decision.
Given the choice, I'd thin cut the 1 with heavy right english rail first, knocking the 1 toward the 4 ball and sending the CB to the other end of the table.
Colin
2strong4u
Banned
I don't think anybody would pushout when there are good safes to be had. Thin the left side of the one barely moving it off the rail and send cueball 3 rails behind the 6 ball.
If I had a gun to my head and had to push Ill send the cueball up table near the middle of the top rail. If I get the shot back I'm playing safe like above, behind the 6 ball.
If you mss safe they are left long with no real shot so you aren't really selling out.
If I had a gun to my head and had to push Ill send the cueball up table near the middle of the top rail. If I get the shot back I'm playing safe like above, behind the 6 ball.
If you mss safe they are left long with no real shot so you aren't really selling out.
Ditto... not pushing here. Probably would put the one next to the 8
No reason to push here....
...cut the one towards the four....massive right english...
....possible snooker behind eight or six...the six is blocking a scratch.
If it was mandatory push after the break....it wouldn't matter to me....
...'cause I won't play those rules.
...cut the one towards the four....massive right english...
....possible snooker behind eight or six...the six is blocking a scratch.
If it was mandatory push after the break....it wouldn't matter to me....
...'cause I won't play those rules.
If I'm familiar with the table I might accidentally get stuck behind the 5 and hope he makes me kick at the 1.
Of course, I could do that without pushing out...
pj
chgo
View attachment 43347
Of course, I could do that without pushing out...
pj
chgo
View attachment 43347
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That was my thought, too. But I think I actually like 2strong's idea of thinning the 1 and taking the cue behind the 6 even more.
Put the cueball behind the 6 after thinning the 1-ball on the left side, or if you want to get super aggressive put the cueball behind the 3-ball after sending the 1-ball two rails next to the 9-ball for a combination after hopefully getting ball in hand.
Yeah, possibly, but there's a possible scratch off the six if coming off the side rail.
The safety here I would play is to super- thin the 1 on the left side with left English, trying to leave the 1 ball near the 4 and the cue ball buried in the 6 and 8.
If I had to push - I would push into the 5 leaving the cue ball dead even with the one ball. If given back, I would shoot the one in the corner with a rail first spin shot, which I have a lot of confidence I would make. If not given back, I would be challenging my opponent to do the same. Since I am pretty good at these, I am hoping my opponent isn't.
If I had to push - I would push into the 5 leaving the cue ball dead even with the one ball. If given back, I would shoot the one in the corner with a rail first spin shot, which I have a lot of confidence I would make. If not given back, I would be challenging my opponent to do the same. Since I am pretty good at these, I am hoping my opponent isn't.
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ElCorazonFrio
Banned
If you want to push and want to win from this layout, the push you should use involves your opponent and a flight of stairs.
That's funny!
Tough table. I avoid playing people strong enough to run it out. Kick the one in. No real penalty if I miss. Pat's idea is good too, and pushing out to a self-hook makes you look weaker.
But seriously, folks... this is not a push-out situation. Put the five in front of the cue ball to where there is no kick and no direct hit on the 1 and it becomes a push-out play. Send the cue ball up-table where everything is tough.
In general on push-outs you want to push to a spot where your opponent will be 50-50 on giving it back to you. Near the 9 ought to do it.
I would think if you're coming off the long rail last then you take that scratch out of the equation and have more margin for error, plus if you don't get there you leave more distance between the 1-ball and cueball.
ElCorazonFrio
Banned
I disagree with this. I believe a push should be viewed as an offensive shot, meaning that you figure there is an 80% chance you'll get it back. You should know what you want to do with a returned push and believe your opponent won't see what you do or won't be able to accomplish it.
If you are playing an opponent of equal ability, the push should be a coin flip.
Your thinking works if you're giving up serious weight.
The exception for players of equal ability is if you have some kind of specialty shot that you've been practicing and you push out to that. Maybe you've been practicing kicks on this table. Or for this case, maybe you have been practicing frozen-ball 90-degree cut shots from the kitchen. Push out to that and hope your opponent hasn't been practicing the 3-cushion safety behind the 6.
ElCorazonFrio
Banned
I would always rather have control of the table than not. For that alone, I want the shot back from anyone.