cueball2010 said:

Actually, Its random scratches on my butt. I think I am pretty careful not to abuse or get angry at mistakes on the table. I know why the scratches happen on the table but not my butt. I was think of wrapping it in something like this: https://amzn.to/47Aa388. I think it is for cars but I am wondering if they use the same clear coat on pool cues? Do you foresee any cue damage with this wrap?

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I think it would be better to just stop being a "Rail Banger."

Instead, keep your elbow still during the stroke so the butt does hit the rail during your stroke. Then you won't need to cover the butt with anything.

dr_dave said:

If the CB scratches less, you will less likely to slam the shaft against the table for fewer scratches on your cue.

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Actually, Its random scratches on my butt. I think I am pretty careful not to abuse or get angry at mistakes on the table. I know why the scratches happen on the table but not my butt. I was think of wrapping it in something like this: https://amzn.to/47Aa388. I think it is for cars but I am wondering if they use the same clear coat on pool cues? Do you foresee any cue damage with this wrap?

I don't know how any of those brands play today with the next generation builders, but I'll add my 2 cents from my experience with all these brands from 15-20 years ago, I had a Plain Jane Joss (Dan Janes era) that I sold, I have two Schons (Evan Clark era) and a Jacoby (David Jacoby era). All with SS piloted 5/16x14 joints
Not saying that the next generation builders are not as good, just that I don't have experience with them.

Comparing the cues that I have/had, the Jacoby hit was the softest and while it's a beautiful cue, the craftsmanship was not top notch (could be just a glitch on this particular cue), it gained new life recently with a CF shaft that balances nicely the softer hit of the cue. you can get cheap extension for it but with the old screw, the new quick release joint will cost you $200, ouch....

I have an STL3 Schon that used to be my main player for years (until I got a Carmeli), I like the Schon hit and balance, it's nice and firm. The other Schon that I have is an LTD cue, a little bit heavier than the STL3 but a bit more forward balanced which makes it feel a bit lighter, Also plays nice. Craftsmanship is top notch but I do wish they had sharp points and not the rounded CNC points, The Schon R12 is still my favorite cue design and a cue I would love to own one day.

The Joss had a solid hit, I only got it in order to flip it so I didn't get to shoot with it much, I would place the stiffness between the Jacoby and the Schon. you can get cheap extensions to fit Joss cues.

If I were to buy a new cue from those 3 brands, I wouldn't get a Schon, for the simple reason that they don't offer an extension and it's not that simple to add one to it (you can use a slip-on extension but it's just not that great as a screw-on type). I've also heard mix reviews about the quality of today's Schon cues with the current builder but no first hand experience so take it with a grain of salt.

Joss looks like that they are keeping their quality as it used to be, I would love to add a Joss cue to my collection, but really haven't seen a current design that I like... but that's just me. Maybe the COM cue for what it is.

Current Jacoby also looks nice, nice woods. I don't know how the play compared to the old ones (like the one I own), probably different as they mostly use radial joints these days.

Pechauer looks very nice and I have very little experience with their cues, I've hit a few balls with a Plain Jane cue about 16-17 years ago and I remember it being firm and solid, but that particular cue felt a bit thick and chunky. personally, I don't like cues with proprietary joints that are hard to be fitted with 3rd party shafts (I'm still a Predator shafts fan boy).

So I would probably pick a Joss just because I don't have one and I have a lot of shafts that can fit the classic 5/16x14 joint.
Jacoby for the nicer woods and designs.
Get a Schon if you can find an R series cue.
Those Viking/Carmeli that were mentioned sure do look nice and priced OK, if they are built and play as good as my Carmeli player (Simple 8 points cue) then they're definitely a great choice.

SSP said:

The Recoil tips do not compress, they are not leather, consistent from tip to tip.

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When are they going to pay a top pro to tell us all these are the future?
Still a rave review for thoroughbred tips from me.

IMO, it was just 3 guys shooting the shit on youtube. Nothing more.

bbb said:

He is registered to play in the coming week International open in Saint Augustine

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Hopefully they get a last minute rush of signups. The Bigfoot isn't filled out yet.

Garo 7 said:

I was taught, when actually shooting the shot, to look at where I am striking the cueball, to see the tip hit the cueball. I mean, if you don't, then how do you know where you struck it? ...

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You can tell where you struck the cue ball from what the cue ball does. Learning how to interpret the action of the cue ball is a very important part of the game. Also, if you have a true stroke, you will hit the cue ball where you address it.

On the other hand, you absolutely need to know where the cue ball struck the object ball. Did it go where you were planning? If not your aim or stroke has to change. If you did strike the object ball where you intended, did the ball go in? If not, your aim has to change. In my opinion, watching the CB/OB collision is vital while you are learning to aim.

Focus sharply on the object ball for almost a second before the final stroke.

I do ask students to look at the stick/cueball if they have problems bringing their arm through straight. Usually I ask them to watch the ferrule as it comes back and goes through. But once they have a reasonably straight stroke, it's time to look at the best target.