-15 sec shot clock, no extensions. Make this tournament move!
-Magic rack only. Wood rack takes too long to rack and leads to more clusters and longer games.
-If it's double elimination, get rid of the second final set. Takes too long. Anti-climatic.
-Make all tournaments single elimination so they get done at a reasonable time.

Shot clock for all major tournaments all the way down to local weekly bar tournaments.

GideonF said:

Why the hate for the Arena light? (Aside from the weird issue with the SS joint). A pool hall in my general area installed them and they are way better than what was there before. The lightning seemed good to me.

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I hate them with a passion. They blind me when I'm down on a shot, and also when I'm just walking around the room not even playing. Their diffusers let half the light go sideways into my eyes. The egg-crate style diffusers on the Littman and Diamond and even the Gold Crown lights from the 2000's control the light much better, letting it go down but not sideways.

darren tried that rule at the WPS events

No, I also factor in

-Taper

-Feel/feedback

-Price

-Wood to wood joint. Stainless steel collars look cool but I prefer a softer hit.

So far, the Meucci The Pro is my favorite shaft, the long pro taper is great and it seems to be pretty low deflection. Based off the fact I can use maximum sidespin on close shots with little to no adjustment.

The deflection levels of CF shafts and modern wood shafts aren't likely to be thaaaat different between each other and you would need to run tests to determine the exact level of deflection anyway.

Frosty said:

I could drive out west to you and we could play some 10 ahead sets for a dime.

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i would also spot him the break.

fish2 said:

Aside from joint, taper, tip diameter, if everything was equal, weight, tip diameter, deflection, balance, taper, are there other performance factors that needs to be considered?

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I like a cue that has forward weight however that is mostly controlled in the butt. I also like a short, light weight ferrule. If you are judging a wood shaft, I want a very straight grain, and close grain wood without any blemishes. And a wood to wood joint.

and ive thrown mine away long before they get to that stage. just like my shoes i dont wear them until my toes comes out.

Don’t like it. I have occasionally played shape to an easy jump shot, as part of my pattern. Sometimes it’s the best option for opening up the table, and some balls you just can’t get to

there is some feel difference that you will get used to anyway if played for awhile.

otherwise looks if that matters to you

and material if that has a preference with you.

deflection is a very small issue if you know how to play. but it is important for those that seem to succumb to advertising.

most players have a ferrel size and tip size they like

and joint but cannot really tell the difference.

when people are learning to intermediate they tend to agonize over equipment needlessly. human nature at work.