Classic 2002 R21 Richard Harris custom cue with 2 original shafts and JP

This is a beautiful, hard-to-find classic Richard Harris high-end cue with 6 sharp points, black veneer, and a 3/8-11 pin. The cue has window inlays in the butt sleeve. The butt weighs in at 14.96 oz and has an original linen wrap. Original shaft 1 is 13.1 mm and weighs in at 3.78 oz, straight. 2nd Original Shaft is 13.1mm, with Gorina Soft, and weighs 4.13oz straight. Overall, the cue is straight together. Asking $5500 shipped.


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Do you think that playing 14.1 / Straight Pool can help a players game out at all? At least with Consistency?

I love it. You learn so much. Only game you can play by yourself and you have a way to show you are improving; the higher the run, or even better your average run, the better you are getting. You can establish goals, like run 25 and then run 50 and maybe eventually 100, etc. Those goals kept me very motivated, until I ran 100. I still want to run my 3rd 100 ball run, but not the same as the first. There are so many people who do not know throw shots or carom shots. They just don't come up that much, but they do all the time in straight pool.

RARE Autographed 1963 World's Pocket Billiard Championship Program – Signed by Pool Legends!

Hey everyone,


I’m parting ways with a museum-quality piece of pool history from my collection. Up for grabs is an original, fully autographed program from the 1963 World's Pocket Billiard Championship held at the Hotel Commodore in NYC (April 8th - 14th).
As most of you know, this specific tournament was a pivotal moment for the game's revival in the 60s. What makes this piece exceptional is the cover, which is stacked with bold signatures from the sport's greatest legends and Hall of Famers.

Signatures include:


Irving Crane


James W. (Jimmy) Moore


Onofrio Lauri


George Chenier


Frank McGown


Michael Eufemia


Al Coslosky


Al Gassner


Verne Peterson


Joe Canton


Bonus Inclusion:
I am also including the original, hand-scored tournament tally sheet from inside the program (see photos). It tracks the intense round-robin match records that ultimately led to Luther "Wimpy" Lassiter taking the championship.

Price & Details:


Asking Price: $300 OBO (Or Best Offer)


Location: Shipping out of Wisconsin


Shipping: Will ship flat, highly protected, and fully tracked.


Payment: PayPal (F&F or add the standard 3% for G&S).

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Do you think that playing 14.1 / Straight Pool can help a players game out at all? At least with Consistency?

Any kind of practice is probably good for your game. Pool is not really that complicated. It's basically just doing simple things consistently.
Besides playing 1.41 is a lot of fun.

I learned of a new game recently, but it looks very difficult. I think they call it K Ball. It is 15 Ball Rotation Pool, where every ball is 1 point, and you race to a certain amount of points. Playing defense is pointless, because if you miss, your opponent gets ball in hand. So, in a way, it is like playing the ghost. Offensive shots only. I think it is too advanced for me though.

Do you think that playing 14.1 / Straight Pool can help a players game out at all? At least with Consistency?

I don't quite understand the question. Is straight pool your main game or 9 ball? If you are asking "will I get in stroke faster playing straight pool, or 9 ball, or drills?" I don't think it makes any difference. Just need to be at the table swinging the arm in a serious manner. IMO.

Well, I never played much of any other game, other then 9 ball. I never liked 8 ball. Straight pool seems easier in a way, but getting the break outs seems like the really difficult part. Missing a break out could mean that you are screwed, and not getting a really good leave for that 15th ball, for the break out, also means that you are screwed for the next game. I played it by myself for about an hour today, on a 9 foot Brunswick. It was really not easy, having to deal with the clusters, and trying to get break outs. Nine Ball is just so much different. Rarely any clusters, and you are just always playing shape for 1 ball, and not having to deal with having to get around many other balls.

FS: Gorgeous 6pt wrapless Mike Webb cue, cocobolo & curly maple

FS…..Monster player, 6-point Mike Webb, older cue in great shape!!

This is one nice looking cue folks!! And if you know or have heard about Mike’s cues being fabulous players, this one is no exception. Beautiful old dark cocobolo forearm and butt sleeve with curly maple points and slick handle (wrapless). Maple/orange/maple veneers on the high points, none on the short points. Thin stitch rings in all positions. Ivory sleeved flat face joint with Radial pin. This is a played cue but still excellent condition. Just a few finish dings (very small) around the edge of the butt cap and a few small scratches around the shaft joint collars.

SPECS…..standard 58” length, 18.6 or 18.4oz depending on which shaft. 14.9 butt and shafts are 3.7 and 3.5, both at 12.9mm.

PRICE….$2200 shipped inside USA 🇺🇸 included. Overseas not possible on this one, sorry.

No trades, PMs only thanks.

Buy in total confidence, you will receive this cue exactly as shown and described.

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Little Monster Jump-Break First impression

I picked up this cue from AliExpress, I've seen this cue at different times with different prices. I got it for under $100.
I don't need it as I have a Jump/Break cue and also a dedicated break and jump cues.
But at this price point I decided to get it.
The main reason to get it is that some idiot knocked my case and cues during league night and I wanted something cheap and durable (CF) that I would not care too much about during league.

I've got the one in the image bellow, I know that there are other cues, I don't know the differences other than decals.
Link to the cue:

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So my first impression:
It's pretty ugly but not as bad as in the pictures.... I'm not a fan of these type of decals but most of the top brands have them on their break cues so can't really do much about it. the colors are not as bright in reality so it's not that bad.

It's wrapless, just how I like break cues BUT the finish is matte and a bit slippery, at first I thought it would be a deal breaker but I had no issues with it.
The cue is nicely constructed, a fit and finish is top notch, not something that you would expect from a $100 cue.
Both joints are Like Uni-Loc QR joint, I say like because on the pin there are more threads than on the original Uni-Loc QR but I like it, it take more turns to put together and break apart but it feels tighter, I've tested putting a different Uni-Loc shaft on its butt and its shaft on a different Uni-Loc butt and they all interchange and perfectly fit, so no issues there.

The advertise weight is 19oz, mine came at 18.9oz. A bit heavy for my taste in break cue (My other break cues are about 17.5 with I prefer). I took the bumper off to see it there are weight bolts and maybe I can make it lighter, but there were none. There are threads for the bumper but passed it it's hollow for 15cm (about 6 inches) without threads so can't add weight if 19oz is not enough... my guess is that it's hollow back there to reduce weight.
The balance point is 20 inches from the end of the bumper, I find it to be perfect for a break cue and makes the 19oz cue a lot more tolerable for me.

Although advertised as a Carbon cue, when taking off the bumper, I realized that it's cored with wood. I cant tell if it's all the way or just the back piece or maybe just a part of it, can't see past the hollow wooden core in the back, all the joint pieces look like solid carbon but it could just plugs at the joints.

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The jump section (front part of the butt and shaft) weigh 293 grams - 10.3oz, a bit on the heavy side but I like heavy jump cues, I find them easier to jump. The length is 109cm - 42.9 inches.
Compared to my Rhino jump cue without the back end part, it weigh 273 grams - 9.6oz and same length, maybe a tip height shorter.

The shaft quality feels the same as the Rhino jump shaft but it's shorter (Rhino is 30 inches) and although not as wide at the tip as the Rhino (12.9 vs 13.9) because it's shorter, it gets fatter closer to the tip than the Rhino.
The taper is like a hybrid, it's straight for about 8 inches and then starts to get wider in a conical manner.
There is a short black ferrule (looks like phenolic resin of a sort) and a tip that looks phenolic resin as well which looks different than the one in the pictures of the product.

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Performance:
With it being made of CF for the most parts of it, the 19oz weight and the phenolic tip, it delivers a big break without putting too much effort into it.
I practiced breaking hand racked 8 ball racks and found out that I get better results by breaking softer than what I'm used to.
It works well, can't complain, not something out of this world... I can get the same results with any break cue. But remember that the purpose of this cue is not getting something better, just getting something to get the job done, during league night. I could have just use my playing cue or a house cue but then I would loose the jumping ability.

Jumping - this is where is cue excel over most cheap wooden Jump/Break cues. it jumps easy and very comfortable for me. jumps better than my Players Jump/Break and as good if not better than the Rhino without the back end. Of course that the longer 3pc Rhino is better in most cases and more comfortable for me as I'm 6ft tall but the compromise for taking just one cue is really not that big, especially for league night as we play 8ball and I don't use jump cues that much in 8ball.

Bottom line,
If you find a good deal on it (around $100), it's probably the best J/B cue for the money, as long you can look pass the decals and matte finish.

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