If points/flies are off you can put the butt piece/short splice between centers and put a witness mark around the the 2 ends of the flies (or the high/low fly if there are more than 2) Same with points if you are trying to adjust them.
Then you can visually see how much adjustment needs to be made. Use a maple disc that you have pre made that has a center hole (make sure it is like a 0 or 00 60 degree center hole and does not extend thru to the other side, probably will be about 3/16" thick at the most) on one side and is flat on the other on the end of the piece when it is between centers (sometimes needed at the joint end or vice versa, butt end) with and indicator on the top of the piece. Rotate till the short one is on top. Tap the piece down a few thou and it will slide along the disc. This will take some experimenting to figure out how much pressure to use so it doesn't fall out but will still slide once it's tapped with another piece of wood dowel.
Once you get it moved to where you like it, a few drops of thick cyno on the edges of the disc will hold it there when you're cutting the long side off. Make NO movement to the cutter depth or the taper from your last cut (when you've realized something is messed up) after you've done this procedure of adjustment. Put a witness mark back and forth down the entire length of the piece being cut so you can now see if you have made all the proper adjustments after the first trial cut. Second cut, dial your cutter in approx 3 thou and take another pass. You will see the witness marks being shaved off and you'll visually see if you are headed in the right direction or not. If you need to make a disc adjustment again it is easily removed by just trimming the cyno off and starting the entire procedure all over again.
It's generally not a 1 and done procedure but what's your hurry? Precision is the optimum want here for the end result and generally being in a hurry will not let you end up there.
A movement of around 5 thou will knock the length of the fly/point back about an 1/8" after you've made cuts to get the piece back to round and it is no longer egg shaped. Some trial and error will let you know how much for the length of movement in the fly/point that is needed.
Usually done in 3 thou increments tapped down at a time depending on how far out they are. Yours didn't look to be that much diff so small moves will suffice.
You mentioned you're already smaller dia than you like to be so just cutting off the back end might not be a option if the handle area is too small also. You may end up make it a short splice style cue ( jump cue handle) and chalk it up to a learning experience for future reference.
Key to eliminating needing to do this entire procedure is having an exact set up in the beginning and making sure all your cuts are precise and on point.
I was told many years ago by a master woodworker that becoming a "master class" in anything is how well you can hide your mistakes.
Everyone makes them....it's what you do to fix them that makes the difference.
