Diamond Pool Tables - Degree of Difficulty

My new 9 foot Diamond has 4 1/2” pockets but shelf will completely hide a ball with lots of room to spare. I’m 72 and hate this table. Plays like crap. It does roll and banks good. You can’t touch a rail or it will spit ball back out even though it went in. I’m thinking of grinding an inch or so off somehow. I hope some will shed some light on this for a fix.
Tighten up!

That torture device will never play easier than it does today, without mechanical intervention.

Welcome to the club
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DCC one pocket speed-up rule

i see your point but i think its time for the DCC 1p to be a 'elite' event and not just another 'dead money open'. say it was limited to 350, how many have a real chance ,say, of a top10-15? Not many. Most play in this just to say they did. Get 128 monsters and let 'em have at it. Even then you could probably name the top8 finishers right now.
This has never been Greg Sullivan's vision. I have discussed this topic with him a few times and he sees the Derby as an amateur event in which pros are allowed, not the reverse. There is no doubt in my mind that the amateurs have a lot to do with what's great about the Derby.

The only event meant to be exclusive at the Derby is the Bigfoot 10-ball.

Thoughts on purpleheart insert for shaft threads?

I have found that purple heart doesn't thread well. It is splintery if that makes sense. I have some Lignum vitae that I think would be a great insert wood.
There were some old block letter Joss shafts made of lignum vitae.

I have seen pictures be never handled one. That has made me curious about this wood and I rarely see it mentioned.

Diamond Pool Tables - Degree of Difficulty

Appreciate the comments. I will go on record as saying that I do NOT like these Diamond tables. I think that as far as a factor contributing to the lack of pool enthusiasm in younger folks, these types of tables would certainly be a contributing factor. Many years ago as a young person, I began to really enjoy this game, as Brunswick home tables in the 1960's with larger pockets allowed one to get fairly proficient and thus have a sense of enjoyment and satisfaction in playing the game. I have stayed with it my entire life because of that. I think that most young people being introduced to the game on tables such as these would quickly walk away from the game because it would just not be fun at all to watch balls constantly rattle in the pocket jaws. I remember pool halls would usually have just ONE table up front near the desk with tighter pockets - there was a reason for having only one - the other 15 tables kept people coming BACK to the ROOM! For myself, a seasoned player, this is now a new challenge, I doubt that I would be playing and contributing today if my first experiences were on a table like these Diamonds.
I don’t like them either. Play like garbage! I paid a lot of money for a garbage playing table. I think it mainly the extremely deep pocket shelves.

Mark Wilson on sidespin to pocket balls

People Otherwise, sidespin can be a crutch that actually limits player development (ie, I can only make this shot with outside because that's all I've ever done).
That is bad logic. You claim one side and then ignore that possibility for the other side

A player who learns centerball and wants to incorporate side spin is no more or less likely to be stuck on the 1st option than a player who learns side spin and wants to use centerball.

They are the same in that respect.

Diamond Pool Tables - Degree of Difficulty

Recently moved here to Florida- been playing at a room called Diamonds in Cape Coral which features Diamond pool tables- my first real experience with these tables. they are nine footers, probably fairly old, look like 4 1/2 inch pockets ( 2 cue balls will not fit into them side to side) shelf depth seems rather deep. these tables seem to play much, much tougher than Gold Crowns that I have played on most of my life. pockets reject anything that touches a rail even slightly, and hitting a pocket point is pure doom!
So far still trying to adjust my game to these tables, but my initial observations are that the pockets seem to reject balls that REALLY should be a score given a REASONABLE allowance for aiming. any time the object ball needs to travel more than six feet to the pocket, only a slow to moderate slow speed seems to pocket a ball. Straight pool runs are a disaster on these tables, as balls that are run down along the cushions to the pocket are rejected with even the SLIGHTEST amount of off center clearance. Also break shots in 14.1 cannot be hit with the correct speed to open up balls, as most are rejected from the pockets. As for bank shots- these tables seem to bank much shorter than Gold Crowns or Olhausens - I need to ADD angle to side pocket bank shots to make a bank.
Is my experience unique, I doubt it as I am a fairly good player and am really struggling to make balls that previously required no thought. I can see these tables causing young people to forget about pool and try another sport as the difficulty factor would keep player satisfaction to a minimum. I look around me and see lesser players come in and seem to miss 75% of their shots - not good for their confidence or enjoyment of time spent on these tables. Curious as to what experienced players feel about these tables compared to "old standard" Brunswicks etc. BTW- I am up for this challenge, but at times I know that i hit a ball "right" and these tables still reject- a bit frustrating, to say the least. Is this really good for pool?
My new 9 foot Diamond has 4 1/2” pockets but shelf will completely hide a ball with lots of room to spare. I’m 72 and hate this table. Plays like crap. It does roll and banks good. You can’t touch a rail or it will spit ball back out even though it went in. I’m thinking of grinding an inch or so off somehow. I hope some will shed some light on this for a fix.

Thoughts on purpleheart insert for shaft threads?

I'm looking for a stiff hit with some good feedback for a 3/8x10 pin. Maybe something somewhere in between the hit of maple threads and phenolic threads. I thought purpleheart would hold up better than maple...anyone have any input? Thanks

If you've never attempted threading PH you should try it.

If you're having trouble threading maple and making those threads last, good luck.
Maple is one of the easiest woods to thread. There are cues over a 100 years old with good solid maple threads.
The other thing I contest is how an insert in a shaft will make the difference in the way a cue will (feel/hit)?

New WPA Official Rules of Pool … Learn About All the Changes

FYI, I just posted a video that discusses and demonstrates all changes that have recently been made to the World Pool Association (WPA) official rules of pool. Check it out:


Contents:
0:00 – Intro
0:38 - Use of Equipment
2:46 - Balls Settling
4:13 - 8-Ball Open Table
5:08 - Foul Uncertainty
---- 5:18 - wrong-ball-first
---- 7:05 - no rail contact
8:17 - Unintentional Scoop
9:21 - All-Ball Fouls
11:06 - 9-Ball Break
13:14 - 10-Ball Safety
14:36 - New Game Rules
15:05 - More Info

As always, I look forward to your feedback, comments, questions, complaints, and requests.

Enjoy!
Just went to the WPA website and the new rules are NOT posted there. The PDFs are still for 2016...

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