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Bavafongoul said:

I really like the Pagulayan chalk cube shape and what’s not to like about TAOM Chalk. So it is the best combination, IMO.
However, when it comes to pool balls, Pagulayan really blew it. This design rates a F along with some Dynasphere designs.

Centennials are admittedly my favorite but Aramith Tournament is a great design and I could tolerate the Rhodium design too.
However, these are just ugly, worse than Predator’s Black design. I posted so that I could get feedback from forum members.

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Those are a hard pass IMO. Terrible color choices.

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Poolmanis said:

Yes. I just move 2 last ball of that warm up rack to make 2 test shots like i did on video. That is common on official tournaments.

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Makes sense. Did you know that at the Mosconi Cup, just three weeks away, nobody is permitted to warm up on the TV table, not even in off hours? Hence, the data for multi-rail paths must be collected as the Mosconi Cup progresses.

HawaiianEye said:

It ain't pool if the cloth isn't green and the balls aren't the original colors.

It is a blasphemy!

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I'm ok with blue cloth but otherwise, I feel your sentiment. I also feel the same way about CF and fancy chalk. I use a 40+ year old cue and Master chalk

It ain't pool if the cloth isn't green and the balls aren't the original colors.

It is a blasphemy!

The angle, the speed, and then the percentage of the head ball I am hitting (starting with a full dead center hit on the head ball and working little by little into more of a cut break).

bbb said:

surprised you can aim at 30 (you are aiming at 30 ...yes?)
on a pool table and it works

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And if table is good condition i make that in around 30-40% of time too. If table is very slick i miss whole ball long(just like Filler did). That gives good info anyways even with 1 try.

sjm said:

Yes, good idea, but ...

In truth, the chance to warm on a stream table at a major championship is usually minimal, typically, but not always, restricted to one rack each for you and your opponent. Over the years, I've heard more than a few players complain about this, noting that the table in the practice room may or may not play like the one on which they must compete, but their complaints have, too often, fallen on deaf ears.

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Yes. I just move 2 last ball of that warm up rack to make 2 test shots like i did on video. That is common on official tournaments.

Trying to extend follow through will likely lead to trying to power through the ball and is a horrible way to think of the desired outcome.

You don't follow through the ball, you naturally allow your stroke to come to an end. On some shots that could take three inches, on others it may take a foot. People with bad form who hold the cue at the very butt and strike the cue before their forearm is vertical will either have a long follow through or they will be using power to decelerate the cue.

Follow through is simply the worst things a player can concentrate on.

Bob, you mean pongohops might have some bierbower cues.

Still on the hunt for vigma zigzags

KINGSCOURT905 said:

Fred, none of those — I don't use an aiming system at all, I just try to hit it clean and keep my head still. The reverse DeLuna one I've never even heard of, is that a real thing?

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I suspect the RAM shot, used on power shots and especially the break shot, has not yet gotten into Canada.

I think many of the suggestions made here are of very little value if it's the opponent racking on the typical pitted bar table with the typical worn and maybe mismatched object balls. In such a situation, every rack is going to be different -- different gaps in different places. In such a situation, I think the best you can do is learn to hit the head ball perfectly full, as hard as possible, and with almost no spin. And ask your opponent to at least get the front ball frozen against its neighbors.

Poolmanis said:

When i play tournaments and want test table in warm up I shoot couple times 3 rail "opposite system shot" 3 rails. It is fast way to get read of rails and cloth.
It is close what Filler had, and i am sure he know that too so that shot. Use slightly less english than natural 3 rail kick and faster speed.
Here you can see me test it on last tournament before match.
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Ditto, after I play some shots figuring out the speed of the cloth I usually go straight to 3 railer's, if I have time I might even look for some spots on walls.

dquarasr said:

Where da heck did you find a 20-lb bowling ball?

At least when I bowled (early 70s until the late 90s), 16 lbs was maximum allowed.

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One man at the alley I bowled at had a 26 pound ball.

A twenty pound ball wasn't available in plastic but no problem in rubber. This would have been in about 70-72. Since I wasn't bowling league or any formal competition, I could use anything that didn't damage the alley equipment. I bought the ball from the alley's pro shop. It was special order but only took a few weeks or months to get. The reason I bought a twenty was because the bowling alley had at least two on the public racks.

Hu