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Pace of Play

H
Bob Jewett said:
Instead we often see the finalists split the pot at 2AM. Somehow the players think running into the dawn is OK. I guess for the players who go home at 10PM, it is. They got to play for a while and see some good players, and they get to bed at a reasonable hour.
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Tiered payout amounts. 100% payout by a specified time, and less by 10% every half-hour (or whatever seems right). The slower everyone plays, the less potential money to win. Could even break up the place amounts, so if the 3rd place finishes before the 100% cutoff, they get full pay, but if the 1st/2nd finishes an hour later, they only get 80% of the on/before time payout! :LOL:
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4-6 point cues with colored veneers and linen wraps are my favorite

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fastone371 said:
The Richard Black story is funny. I'm guessing he knows exactly where all of the non perfect areas (I hesitate to call them flaws) are on the cues he builds but most normal people will probably never notice. Its the same with the racecar chassis' I build, I know every area that I don't consider "perfect" but the owners never or rarely notice, sometimes even when I point something out.
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Black was right in that there is a reasonable level to examine anything. I used to in the early 80s buy and sell gold, silver and occasionally diamonds. Even diamonds have a reasonable exceptince of flaws. A diamond used to be, maybe still is, called flawless if flaws could not be detected under a 10x magnifier. Put it under a scope maybe 100x it may shows a number of tiny flaws.
That gold buying in the early 80s was very short lived. It took about a year for laws to be passed to catch up with this new gold buying enterprise.
People made millions though while it lasted.
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Blast from the past: The Miz vs CJ Wiley

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JohnnyOzone said:
Watching Mizerak play 9 ball is like watching Michael Jordan play baseball.
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When Miz was young he was a lot like Yapp. While not really robotic once on the ball he was very precision. Sigel also. They played much like today's players as far as execution. You don't win 4 US opens in a row unless you posses something extra. In that match with CJ it was in the 90s. He was not the player he was in the 70s.
His weight was probably a factor.

We had dinner once in Texas during one of the Reds tournaments. He ordered the meatloaf. It came and was a whole small meatloaf enough to feed 2 or 3 people. He ate the whole thing along with all the side dishes, Washing it down with multiple glasses of diet soda.
It was scary to watch.
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4-6 point cues with colored veneers and linen wraps are my favorite

fastone371
middleofnowhere said:
Billy Stroud showed me how he would finish the rounded point with a razor knife to create a sharp point. Pretty easy actually. Then put in the inlayed point. You could not tell when it was done that it was not a splice unless you look closely.

The way to tell is at the pointed end in the point. On a splice each venner is a little different as it comes to a point due to the taper.
On an inlayed point they are unchanged.and the same.
As the cue is tapered the spliced point gets shorter. Inlayed points stay the same length as the cue is tapered. That is why they line up so perfectly, they are inlays. Spliced points if done correctly will line up perfectly as well.

I once refinished a Joss East cue and found the tips of the points were painted or inked on to make them come out even. The outside venner was black so this was almost undetectable.

On inlays in Ebony black tinted epoxy can be used to give the appearance of a more perfect fit. Tricks can be used.
I was at the BCA show once and picked up a Richard Black cue and took out my magnifer. He grabbed the cue from my hand and said "A cue must be examined at arms length with the naked eye".
He was probably right. A cue can look perfect from a small distance. Few cues could probably stand up to being examined with a loupe.
Click to expand...
The Richard Black story is funny. I'm guessing he knows exactly where all of the non perfect areas (I hesitate to call them flaws) are on the cues he builds but most normal people will probably never notice. Its the same with the racecar chassis' I build, I know every area that I don't consider "perfect" but the owners never or rarely notice, sometimes even when I point something out.
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Seeing the contact point on the object ball.

fastone371
Bob Jewett said:
How do you deal with those perimeter lights, like the Predator ones?
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I have never played where perimeter lighting was used yet. Its also not my only method for aiming. I use ghost ball, contact point, fractional, and CTE, doesn't everyone use multiple aiming "systems"? On super thin hits how would you even use contact point or fractional, to me that would be essentially ghost ball because you are trying to put the cue ball at a point to barely touch the OB. Its really hard to even see the contact point in a case like this. straight shots or close to straight I use contact point, its very easy to see the contact point and the pocket at the same time. I would guess I use all of the aiming systems at the same time unconsciously, one system backs the other one up. I like CTE because for me it gets feet and body in the right in the right place, it forces me to always move forward into a shot, never slide sideways into a shot.
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Seeing the contact point on the object ball.

Patrick Johnson
bbb said:
… if you use fractional aiming
You could just aim directly at a spot on the object ball
And not have to try to aim somewhere else to make a certain spot on the cue ball hit a certain spot on the object ball
Just saying…..😉🤓
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Except fractional aiming (like all systems) only gets you close - you have to estimate the actual aim line from there. Very rarely does fractional aiming put you directly on the correct aim line with no adjustment.

pj
chgo
Click to expand...

4-6 point cues with colored veneers and linen wraps are my favorite

M
Billy Stroud showed me how he would finish the rounded point with a razor knife to create a sharp point. Pretty easy actually. Then put in the inlayed point. You could not tell when it was done that it was not a splice unless you look closely.

The way to tell is at the pointed end in the point. On a splice each venner is a little different as it comes to a point due to the taper.
On an inlayed point they are unchanged.and the same.
As the cue is tapered the spliced point gets shorter. Inlayed points stay the same length as the cue is tapered. That is why they line up so perfectly, they are inlays. Spliced points if done correctly will line up perfectly as well.

I once refinished a Joss East cue and found the tips of the points were painted or inked on to make them come out even. The outside venner was black so this was almost undetectable.

On inlays in Ebony black tinted epoxy can be used to give the appearance of a more perfect fit. Tricks can be used.
I was at the BCA show once and picked up a Richard Black cue and took out my magnifer. He grabbed the cue from my hand and said "A cue must be examined at arms length with the naked eye".
He was probably right. A cue can look perfect from a small distance. Few cues could probably stand up to being examined with a loupe.
Click to expand...
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