nataddrho said:

Yeah I agree with all of this. Part of the problem is what the word "stroke" really means.

Does it mean the final instant of contact?
Does it mean the intended motion profile of the cue movement?
Does it include someone's personal fundamental setup and stance?
Is it the entire mental approach to the table, including endurance?

I've heard it as all of those things, and I originally used it as the first definition I listed.
It is somewhere in the middle of all that above.

What I am trying to express, and have so far been failing at with poor articulation, is that it is unnecessary to deliberately add additional axial and radial movement to your final stroke with the expectation that it will cause augmented manipulation of the cue ball, rather than initially aiming for the location on the cue ball that resulted from the additional movements at the time of contact.

Whew.

Take this and apply whatever definition of stroke you want and I'll be happy with that.

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Stroke already has a dictionary definition. I'm this context it is most applicable to either the motion of the cue or the motion of the player.

I believe it is most widely accepted that when players talk about their stroke they are talking about their body mechanics.

jdsons said:

I have a 1968-69 cue that is not straight. The lift or warp whatever is not bad. It appears to be at the joint and C ring area. I am not sure. I was lead to believe that a cue can be taken apart and put back together, rebuild. Are any makers offering that's service. If so, how much does that run???

Julian

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Hard to say without actually seeing/holding the cue.
As others have mentioned, this can probably be done.
There are a lot of different factors to determine the cost of the repair or if it can even be done. An example would be a warped forearm which makes it a tough nut to crack. Not much you can do there but build a new forearm.
Contacting Fred first is always your best first option and make your decision from there.
Each cue repair such as this is unique in it's own.
For me, there is no set price for doing a repair such as this.
I've done everything from making your SW butt straight again to eliminating a buzz noise in a Gus without damaging/removing the original finish.
(Thanks Barry for all of your help and insight on accomplishing this)
You are the only one that can determine if the cost of the repair is worth the total value of the cue after it is completed.
Good luck

nataddrho said:

I made a mistake, I screwed up how I worded that. I was trying to voice third person, and tried to answer it in the first. I think the opposite of “You either know how to play or you don’t.”

My high runs are 71 balls in 14.1, 10 in 3c, 21 in 1c, and 4 points in Taiwanese carom. I switched games so I don't know what my Fargo is. Not exceptional, just standard enthusiast level similar to most of us here. So I am only 71% qualified.

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You are a 555 Fargo with 447 Robustness.

thats only about 5 sets for the winner to play so it gets narrowed down fast. you can figure the total time just by guessing how long those guys take to finish a set.

if too long then maybe make the first two or more rounds 6 ball instead of 9 ball.

Jaden said:

What is this crap about pool players either know or they don't? DUH!!! It sounds like excuses for people who either can't or don't understand how they do. lol. It's a forum, hopefully those that can and/or know how will discuss with each and with those that can't so that those who can't can learn how.

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You are basically agreeing with and making my point even more valid.

You want to impress this individual who plays pool? From a 7ft 8 ball perspective - start with a plan, know how and hit your spots with the cue ball while working through the rack. This takes knowledge & the ability to execute said knowledge.

Do I (or anyone else for that matter) need to understand the exact math and science behind what is going on while doing the above? In my humble opinion is that is not a necessity. I need to know what spot(line) to hit, the approximate speed & if necessary the correct type of side spin.

This forum is so full or misinformation at times it's not even funny. For those that really want to learn I don't really know if this is the right place

I'll say it again - the rest is just internet message board talk from those who want to sound impressive. I call these the "pro shop talkers" who then proceed to go out on the course & want to change the game by the third hole.

Who this applies to & who it doesn't is of no real consequence. Having said imo you would be fooling yourself thinking it's not true.

garczar said:

yet for 20yrs the same lame topic keeps getting re-hashed. how's this: 'its the player and not the cue'??? feel better now? cue/shaft co's make their living off people thinking they can buy a game, same as golf equip makers. As soon as Scheffler switched to that TM mallet putter the whole world had to have one and they still can't break 100(or get to 500FR in pool).

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Have broken 100 a time or to & play above 500 FR speed.

Still don't have a TM mallet putter & probably never will...

iontarget said:

Thank you but would that not take forever with 25 guys?

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Don't you basically have forever ?!? The tournament can transpire over several days !!

iontarget said:

Single elimination?

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Any number that floats your boat.