Early Impressions Of The Diamond Professional

I’m old school and was taught that as my grip hand comes back to visualize holding a hammer. My rear fingers fall away as I cock my wrist lifting the head of the hammer as high as I can, cue doesn’t actually move, just hand rotation. As I come forward, with perfect timing I might add, I snap the head of the hammer into the cloth like I’m driving the full length of a 16 penny nail into a 4x4. I think I like Nataddrho’s explanation better though
i am having trouble visualizing this
A)when i pick up a hammer my wrist moves to the thumb side
this also happens as i finish my stroke
and
B) when i hit the nail my wrist goes to my pinky finger side .......this happens on my backswing
you are describing the reverse i think
confused

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Early Impressions Of The Diamond Professional

He came to your house the day after Christmas 5 years in a row?

And he never taught you how to break?

Yes, that is correct. His wife grew up 25 miles north of me and they would come down to her parents house around Christmas time. Then the day after he would come down to my place.

We discussed the break shot many times.

But this has been nearly 25 years ago now.

Breaking has changed since then.

And he told me once, regarding the Gold Crown IV, the same thing Billy Incardona said once. The GCIV is not known to be a good breaking table.

I've also had discussions with others regarding the break. Others such as Nick Varner, Diana Minor, Mark Wilson. I've used and tried everything they have shown me. I just don't seem to have any luck no matter what I do. That's why I jokingly make the comment about needing an exorcism.

Clear coat options

I hate to dredge this conversation back up, but I've been doing quite a bit of reading the last few days from previous threads regarding clear coat options and it seems like everyone leans toward the mindset of "this is what I use and I'd never consider anything else". Not a dig by any means, but as someone who is wanting to get away from the CA glue and paper towel method of applying clear coat to a cue, I am having some difficulty deciding what direction to start heading.

I don't currently have the ability or space to set up a full auto-clear/2k spray booth, so unfortunately that option is pretty much off my table.

The product that I lean most towards is solarez. I've seen some back and forth regarding that product, but the photos and videos I've seen using the product seem to make a fantastic result.

I've also contemplated brite tone, but from what I gather, it isn't the most resilient and also can be damaged with alcohol, which makes it seem like a less-than-desirable option.

I've also read that there may be some secret sauce for using CA that provides more consistent results? I'd be interested in hearing those out as well. I'm currently using starbond medium, sometimes with accelerator and sometimes without. My results so far have been passable, but not exactly something I step back and say "wow" about.

I guess I'm mostly looking for a "you should try this, it's worth it" in any specific direction. UV seems to be super doable with less setup, but I'd like to make sure I'm not getting the cart ahead of the horse. (even better if anyone wants to take the time to provide a link or two with a "do this first, then this, then you're done")

Thanks everyone, I enjoy reading the discussions in the forums and I've learned a lot so far.

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