Sometimes it doesn't matter how you package it the shipping company will find a way to screw you.

I sent three full cores with handles installed on them to another cue maker just one state over. I bought insurance for the entire value which was modest but I bought it anyway. UPS left it leaning up against his gate on the sidewalk and it was of course, stolen. Insurance refused to pay because UPS had a photo as proof of delivery. Probably thrown away by the thief when they opened it and realized it had no value to them.

My advice is always require a signature no matter how you ship. The few extra bucks are worth it. Had I done this my package would likely not have been stolen. This gives an added layer of protection to you and somewhat insulates you from lazy drivers. I was penny wise and pound foolish and paid the price for it.

WildWing said:

Not sure of the exact year, but I believe sometime in the 60s.

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Personally, I wouldn't Bet on this info!

But, this is what 'AI' says!

AI Overview


Bob Meucci is approximately 82 years old. [1]
While his exact birth date is not widely publicized, historical records and biographical details from sources like the Meucci Cues Wikipedia entry provide clear landmarks for his age: [1]

• • Birth Location: He was born in Glenview, Illinois. Census and public records list a Robert J. Meucci born in Illinois in circa 1944. [1, 2]
  • Early Career: He began crafting pool cues at age 19 in his father's tool-and-die shop during the early 1960s (math aligned with a mid-1940s birth). [1]
  • Legacy: He went on to establish Meucci Originals (now Meucci Cues) in 1975. He was inducted into the International Cuemakers Hall of Fame in 2006 and officially retired from the business in 2022

Very nice pool hall ! I'm jealous that you have a pool hall close to home ! Ha ha

BarenbruggeCues said:

This would be the approach best used I believe.
Glue the forearm and points all back together. (not as easy as it sounds to get things lined back up during the gluing process)
Bore it and plug it maybe 3-4 inches up inside and assemble the A back together.
Personally I would not put the A back together as a flat face connection.

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Yes, strong temptation to improve that A joint.

I am not against that. It would not alter the appearance. Perhaps the plug could be doweled into the handle. Far superior mechanical joint.

Sunday bump

Kim Bye said:

If you glue it as is and then screw the screw back in, there's a very good chance the wood split in the exact same place again. Drilling in and plugging is the best solition imo. But that obviously complicated things. You would need to recut the point slots.

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I agree. Just gluing it up would be substandard.

As you say, plugging or coring requires recutting the points in the plug or core, which has to be precise, especially because the points are already built and need to fit back in, without changing the dimensions of the cue.

In a fresh build that assembly is done, then you keep your centers as you turn it down to keep the points even. More to it I know.

Since this is a rebuild you can't turn it down after assembly of the points. It has to be exactly right, no room for error.

More challenges that casual observation reveals.

I truly appreciate your observations.

niels can beat anyone and he proves it again and again. no shame in losing to niels. but some of shane's misses were really poor and he seemed to make a habit of scratching off two rails.

Chopdoc said:

Glue it, clamp it, partially bore it, plug it, drill and tap it, would be another idea.



View attachment 931765

Click to expand...

This would be the approach best used I believe.
Glue the forearm and points all back together. (not as easy as it sounds to get things lined back up during the gluing process)
Bore it and plug it maybe 3-4 inches up inside and assemble the A back together.
Personally I would not put the A back together as a flat face connection.