triley41395 said:

First I am not a cuemaker. Here is a picture of an 86ish meucci original with the 5/16-18(top)...A 1989 Sherm(middle)....And a 1988/89 Schon(bottom)...Id say its definitely not an 18 pin. When I compare the Sherm/Schon they are very similar and the Sherm shaft fits the Schon. My Sherm is definitely a 5/16-14 . This doesn't mean the cue you're asking about is a 5/16-14 but it does show he made cues with that pin in that time frame.View attachment 887978View attachment 887979View attachment 887980

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It could be a 5/16-14 not ruling that out.

It's been a while (years) since I bought them. They were so inexpensive at the time that I got 2 sets. The first was the odd colors and the second the traditional colors. Both play great. I think they might have been called bronze and gold sets. The off colors are for practice the gold set for competition. They all polish up nice and look band new, play that way too.

Jaden said:

If you're bridging at the cue's natural pivot point it doesn't matter, either one is just as forgiving. If you're not, then LD will deviate less but both will be off. On loose equipment you'll make more balls, but still wonder why in the hell the cb did what it did. If you're bridging at the pivot point of a normal deflection shaft and not on an ld shaft, then the normal shaft will be much more forgiving of stroke deviations.

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I'm not being coy or anything, but I literally have no idea what any of this means. I'm not doubting your comments or anything, I've just never put this much time into studying cues and their playing properties.

That said, I still think the equipment is negligible vs overall technique. And I totally am convinced players adapt subconsciously super quick to whatever cue us in their hands. I'm m back to playing with high deflection maple. But I think I'll get cf next time because my current playing space is cramped and now I have a ding in my shaft. I like the idea of doing and warp resistance, so I might migrate that way in time for those reasons.

336Robin said:

I need 4 more break shafts to try all these tips! lol

Thank you.

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We may have to start a support group.

GideonF said:

I have the HH2 on my BK Rush. It breaks great when I don’t miscue. Unfortunately the tip hates Taom and Pagulayan chalk (and even Masters) unless I rough it up constantly, so if I don’t hit em square I miscue. I don’t have this issue if I break with a Taom 2.0.

The new Dr V Titlist chalk has been a godsend. It’s the only chalk I’ve found that makes it consistently usable.

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I've had pretty good luck with V10 on mine. I use a kamui gator grip to rough it up. Once it's roughed up it holds the V10 really well. It's seldom that I have to rough it up. I just brush a thin layer on before I break. Obviously results may vary but I've not had much trouble with it. I do generally break hard at very close to center ball.

thanks for the video dr dave
but to be alittle nit picky
for me only the jump shot truly fulfilled the criteria to cut a ball 90 degrees or more
on the rail cut you need the rail so the angle from the english can take effect...if you look at the angle when the cue ball hits the rail and object ball it is no longer 90 degrees or more
the bank shot also requires the compression from the rail or at least some help from the rail
so i dont consider that a true greater than 90 degree CUT shot
you never got to 90 degrees with the level cue......well maybe but the ball never made it to the pocket
the chalk shot is a gaff shot
still a great video and you do show how the net 90 degree or more angle is possible in all the scenarios you presented

Thanks for all of the information, I am going to check more into the Dynasphere balls. Always thought that Aramith was the top of the line used in most tournaments, but obviously that may not be the case. A lot to learn about this game of pool, that's why I'm so glad I joined this forum.