Paul_#_ said:

Are these the shafts you are talking about? Is it kielwood the complete shaft? It looks like the shaft weight can be adjusted.

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It is, and yes they can.
I was given one by a predator player, who was forbidden to use it (even with logos covered).
It balances very nicely without the weight on my butt, but I assume the weight would be for players who prefer a more forward weighted cue.
I bought another one second hand to use as a spare (from the previous generation/batch - which has a slightly different taper, and is a little heavier without the ability to adjust the weight. It is marginally heavier than the other without weight installed).
As expected from a Japanese product, top-notch in terms of finish.

I have switched out the LBM ferrule to Melamine on both.
Originally, I changed the one on the spare shaft I bought, because the LBM had a little damage. But it played so well that I changed the other one too.

Flakeandrun said:

I was given a Hayakawa Kielwood shaft and it is fantastic

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Are these the shafts you are talking about? Is it kielwood the complete shaft? It looks like the shaft weight can be adjusted.

_

oscargrouch said:

Looking for opinions on the different Predator butt constructions - C4+ vs regular maple core (true splices) vs 30 piece. Are there real differences?

Thanks.

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Predator FAN BOY! Here I am.

• I think C4+ and 4-Piece construction feel exactly the same. I don't know why they call them by different names....
• I hit an old maple 2004 Roadline with steel joint and it felt a fraction of a thousandth softer than the C4+ 2025 9k that I hit.
• The C4+ hits a little Softer than the P3 30-piece. I don't think that one in in my head. I definitely think the P3 hits slightly stiffer/harder.

I am pretty sure the balance point does not change unless the natural weight is different. I think the natural weight only changes when you buy a Predator cue where the butt itself cost over $1k usd. Otherwise they are all 17.8oz with weight bolts stuffed inside.

You will get use to a Roadline splice... And if you stick with maple splices non of this will effect your game. The problem only sets in if you decide you want a fancy cue above the $1k mark. At that point you will have to think about C4+ C10 and 30-Piece. Why? because Predator doesn't make a FANCY Roadline. They are all cheap. So just don't try to treat yourself to an overpriced cue. That's how the headache sets in.

But you really can't go wrong with a C+. They make cheap and expensive ones for when you want to piss your wife off. There are also no cheap or expensive 30-Piece cues. Your just stuck with the same old P3 in a different color and they all cost the same amount. Would be nice to buy a FANCY P3 with some inlays, but they don't exist. Wish I had just bought C+ from the start because I like 30-piece the best and don't know how to kick it out of the bag now.

DrCue'sProtege said:

Has anybody had any experience in shooting over/across a template? From what I have seen in tournaments if a template is used it is automatically removed from the table after the break. But does anybody ever just leave the template on the table and shoot over/across it when playing? Even if you are just practicing on your own?

If so, has anybody ever known the template to throw balls off? Or cause the CB or OB to lose it's line or spin?

r/DCP

p.s. and to the Forum's #1 idiot please refrain from posting in this thread. Your ridiculous comments and lies are getting old. And I mean OLD!

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I hardly ever take mine of the table. If the shot is critical enough, I'll just move it to a different spot with my cue, still on the playing surface.